i have changed every part, and still no go g19E

[redman34]

i have changed every part, and still no go g19E

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I have a 2000 Yamaha G19E 48 volt.

Cart ran fine till one day, stopped, and will not go.

I have changed every part in the entire electrical train, and nothing!

I have solid good batteries, 50.2 volts.

This is what I have changed :

motor, speed sensor, solenoid ( 2 x), f/r switch, key switch, fuses, controller, throttle sensor, accelerator stop switch, tow switch..

I have sent the controller in to Fsip 2 times, they rebuilt it the first time. After I reinstalled the rebuilt one, still no go. I sent it back to them, and they checked it out, and said everything is fine.

I have rang out every wire for continuity, checked every connection, splice.

I GET NO BUZZER SOUND. I ran power from batteries to buzzer, it works fine.

I have power to the buzzer,. When I disconnect the wire connector from the controller, and check for negative returning from buzzer to controller, I get the negative.

I have nothing else that is in the system to change.

Anyone help???

[Larry1950]

Not real familiar with the Yamaha but looking at the schematic the controller controls all the negative from the batteries to all components.

http://www.golfcartsforum.com/attachments/golf-cart-diagrams/48d1211138423-yamaha-g19-48v-wiring-diagram-yamaha-g19e-wiring-diagram.gif

Which in turn controls the solenoid. Does the solenoid click?
Can you measure voltage from the negative side of the controller across both lugs of the solenoid when the pedal is depressed?

[redman34]

I have starred at that diagram so long, I think it is embedded on my brain.

I followed every wire, rang out every wire, all voltage is where it is suppose to be.

I have changed EVERY item you see in that diagram, and still no click and no go.

beyond frustrating!

[Larry1950]

Ok, changing everything without finding out why it don't work is a lot of work for nothing. Start by following the voltage. Do you have a voltmeter?
First get the rear wheels off the ground just in case it starts while testing.

Connect a voltmeter black wire to the negative post of the battery string, using the red lead of the voltmeter check for voltage both sides of the fuse, then both sides of the tow switch and both sides of the off/on switch, next the relay/solenoid red/white wire. You should have 48v or more at all those connections. If you cannot get the probe into a plug us a pin and push it thru the insulation to get a reading. If you get voltage all the way to the solenoid disconnect the controller. Push a pin into the R/B wire (or pin 11 of the plug) of the solenoid, take a jumper wire and go from the negative of the battery string and touch it to the pin (make sure the on/off and tow switch is on) this should make the solenoid click. If it clicks use the jumper wire at the negative input wire at the controller, it should still click. Do the above and post results. Then Plan B.

[redman34]

Larry :

I have traced every single wire on the diagram. I have 49 volts on all wires in the positive side of the diagram.

Remember the buzzer does not work. When I unplug the harness from the controller, and I run a jumper from pack negative, to harness pin # 11, the buzzer will beep. That tells me somehow the negative is not coming out the controller.

The only thing left I can think to try tomorrow, is to pull each wire out of the harness plug, try squeezing the female prongs, then try putting them back in the harness to see if it makes contact. What do you think?

[Larry1950]

I agree the negative is not making it thru the controller. However you can have 49v and a poor connection at the batteries. Are the battery posts and cables good and clean, what is the voltage of each battery? Do the batteries charge OK? Is the water level good?

[redman34]

Batteries are good, all connections are clean and tight. As I said, I have changed the batteries during this process, trying to figure out the problem.

So the previous batteries as well as this set, are not the problem. I am actually a battery guy, I install and rebuild batteries for a living. Batteries are at 8.4-8.5, and under load are 7.9 ( worst one) to 8.0.

[Larry1950]

Sounds like you have a handle on it. I have run out of ideas without seeing it, but it appears as though the negative is open either at or in the controller.
See if you get a positive voltage at pin 3 of the controller when depressing the pedal, that would be the one to activate the negative to the solenoid.

[redman34]

so far today, traced all wires again, all are ok.

I did find one thing out, when I put pressure downward, with my hand on the controller connector, I did get a buzzer and once in awhile a solenoid click. When I let off the hand pressure, nothing. So looks like in the connector, something is going on. I squeezed all the female pin ends in the connector, to make a better fit, and made sure the connector seats in the plastic release, but still only action I get is when I get that connector in the right spot.

I am thinking tomorrow, I will cut a connector off another cart I have , that is compatible, and then splice all those wires from the old harness, to the new connector. Sounds like a real pain, but if I can get a different connector to work, I am all for it. I am not looking forward to all that splicing and crap, but maybe it will work.
At one time while moving the connector around, and stepping on the pedal, the cart did jump once, so that is a good sign. Appears to be in this connector connection.

Once I cut and splice this other connector, I will a source to buy some new female end so I can repair the original connector. Anyone know what these female pins are called and where I can get some??

[Larry1950]

Before you start cutting and splicing try hitting the connector with some Deoxit,(best contact cleaner there is) I have found it cures many connector problems. If that don't work get out the soldering iron and heat shrink tubing.

[wthompson]

like larry said use some contact cleaner and a old tooth brush to clean the connector pins. a small pick could help bend the male side for a tighter fit. also dielectric grease will help. post some pictures of the connectors and someone might be able to help id them.

Its a molex connector I think its listed on my site under parts.

[redman34]

This is what I did today :

First tried spraying contact cleaner, but did not help. Next, I took out the original controller ( the one I just had FSIP rebuild - twice_ ) and I replace dit with a controller I took from another Yamaha cart. This second controller was different, but it came off the same model of Yamaha.

Anyway I plugged the connector on to the replacement controller, then I banged down on the connector to make sure it was seated tight.

Put everything back together, got the buzzer and a solenoid click. But cart wouldn't go. I tried resetting the controller, and now the cart moves!! I drove it around a little on the gravel yard at my shop, and it seems to go ok, both forwards and reverse.

Halleluiah!! Praise The Lord!!! I am going to leave this controller on the cart, when I give it back to the owner. I just hope everything stays working now, after I return the cart.

Now the last hurdle will be if the cart will charge up completely. Throughout this entire ordeal, every time I tried to charge it, when I came back the next day, it was a red incomplete and a red abnormal charge lite!!

Don't know why, but hope it was because of the controller issue. I didn';t think the controller had to be working in order to charge a Yamaha. I will see in the morning.

Got my fingers crossed!!!

Thanks guys for all your help, these yamahas are a strange breed.

[Larry1950]

Halleluiah. According to the schematic the charge plug goes directly to the batteries.

[Wirenut]

Like Elite Member, I too have a G19E Yamaha. But while I do get power, I have to turn to tow/run switch to tow to let the batteries get charged because they will run down after about 100 yards. I took it to the "stealer ship" which said one of the batteries were dead after they did a load test. It got replaced. I put the cart on charge but got the same results. This tells me initially that the is a huge drain while I am using the accelerator. Anyone with any ideas?