G16E Diode Question.

[DeputyDawg]

1997 Yamaha 36V cart. The cart was complete minus batteries when I got it. I installed three deep cycle marine batteries in order to function check. Long story short the 10 amp fuse would blow every time it was replaced until I removed the diodes.Once the diodes were removed, the fuse did not blow. Upon checking the diodes I discovered that both were testing 0 in both direction with my multimeter set ohms/ diode setting. Seems as if both are bad to me. Testedthem with the tone setting as well and got a tone in both directions with both diodes. Did I test them correctly? And if so, could they have been the reason why the fuse was blowing? Any help from you "Old Salts" wouild be much appreciated!

Also, the old diodes are black square with two opposing blade style. Is there any reason I have to use the exact same style replacements? Or can I buy an equivilant from Radio Shack and wire them in?

[gaminde]

1997 Yamaha 36V cart. The cart was complete minus batteries when I got it. I installed three deep cycle marine batteries in order to function check. Long story short the 10 amp fuse would blow every time it was replaced until I removed the diodes.Once the diodes were removed, the fuse did not blow. Upon checking the diodes I discovered that both were testing 0 in both direction with my multimeter set ohms/ diode setting. Seems as if both are bad to me. Testedthem with the tone setting as well and got a tone in both directions with both diodes. Did I test them correctly? And if so, could they have been the reason why the fuse was blowing? Any help from you "Old Salts" wouild be much appreciated!

Also, the old diodes are black square with two opposing blade style. Is there any reason I have to use the exact same style replacements? Or can I buy an equivilant from Radio Shack and wire them in?

Are we talking charger diodes Yes it sounds like they are bad. Jameco or mouser should have diodes, you want 30 amp diodes. You will need a schematic of the charger and follow the arrow Symbol for the diodes on the schematic the diodes you purchase must match that arrow, you can buy diodes with arrow pointing and either direction. They should be about 2 or 3 dollars each.

[DeputyDawg]

I should have been more specific. The diodes are in the cart. There are two and they are identical. I will attach a photo if I can. The 10 amp balade fuse is also in the cart , it appears to interupt the ground when blown. I have read on other posts, that you can just purchase diodes from R-Shack and they will work. The style that are in it now appear to be somewhat hard to find on the popular cart websites.

I have also seen them called rectifier / diodes. Any help would be great!

[gaminde]

I should have been more specific. The diodes are in the cart. There are two and they are identical. I will attach a photo if I can. The 10 amp balade fuse is also in the cart , it appears to interupt the ground when blown. I have read on other posts, that you can just purchase diodes from R-Shack and they will work. The style that are in it now appear to be somewhat hard to find on the popular cart websites.

I have also seen them called rectifier / diodes. Any help would be great!

Diodes and Rectifier are the same thing, if the blades are not needed then yes any 10 amp unit will work. they are used as blocking (just like a check valve) allows current one way, used to rectify as in ac to dc and are used to clip high voltage spikes (like the solenoid coil collapsing when just turned on or off.

I sure hope you wanted to know all this I tend to spew at times.

[DeputyDawg]

Great, I can pick ma few up tomorrow and have them replaced in no time. I just hope that the diodes not working is the cause for my fuse to keep blowing. I will let you know what I find after they have been replaced. Tanks again!

[DeputyDawg]

Update, diodes were replaced with 3 amp 50 volt rectifier diodes from R-Shack. No blown fuse! I now have power to the solinoid between the two smaller posts as well as the two larger ones. But 37v is there all the time. I thought it would only be present with the acc. pedal pressed and I am not hearing the solinoid click hen I press the pedal. Solinoid problem maybe?

[gaminde]

Update, diodes were replaced with 3 amp 50 volt rectifier diodes from R-Shack. No blown fuse! I now have power to the solinoid between the two smaller posts as well as the two larger ones. But 37v is there all the time. I thought it would only be present with the acc. pedal pressed and I am not hearing the solinoid click hen I press the pedal. Solinoid problem maybe?

could be diodes are installed wrong, where you clip your meter makes a differance. coil solenoid is measured from one to the other, large posts is measured from battery negative to large posts.

Now 3 amp 50 volt diodes is tooooo small there is 36 volts all the time any voltage spikes can be as high as 50 to 500 volts maybe higher.

can you post a schematic of your unit ??

[DeputyDawg]

I would have bought the 10 amp as you mentioned, but looking at Yamaha replacement parts in a catolog, they only offer a 1 amp and a 3 amp. I installed diodes in the same direction as the old ones were. As you can see in the pics. The old ones had the blades in opposing directions to avoid hooking them up incorrectly. BTW the diodes I installed are rated for a 300amp surge (for 1/2 cycles). My question is this, When should the soliniod have power A) on the big posts, and B) on the smaller posts.

[gaminde]

1997 Yamaha 36V cart. The cart was complete minus batteries when I got it. I installed three deep cycle marine batteries in order to function check. Long story short the 10 amp fuse would blow every time it was replaced until I removed the diodes.Once the diodes were removed, the fuse did not blow. Upon checking the diodes I discovered that both were testing 0 in both direction with my multimeter set ohms/ diode setting. Seems as if both are bad to me. Testedthem with the tone setting as well and got a tone in both directions with both diodes. Did I test them correctly? And if so, could they have been the reason why the fuse was blowing? Any help from you "Old Salts" wouild be much appreciated!

Also, the old diodes are black square with two opposing blade style. Is there any reason I have to use the exact same style replacements? Or can I buy an equivilant from Radio Shack and wire them in?

Ok you said 10 amp fuse not sure what circuit the diodes are in but the fuse should be the smallest part in the circuit you want the fuse to go not the circuit.

[DeputyDawg]

Update! New solenoid installed and I now have proper voltage across the solenoid when pedal is depressed. I have the clacking of the solenoid when pedal is depressed, but still no go! Where do I check next?

[DeputyDawg]

Update again, I have tested the wires from the solenoid to the controller and F/W switch. All seem tobe getting 38 or so volts when the pedal is pressed; but I am not sure if I am checking at th right points. I have even checked at the motor and have 38 volts with the pedal pressed, but still no go. I jump te motor withhel from another forum and the motors spins fine,so I amat a loss! I should also mention that I am not getting the reverse buzzer sound in reverse at all. Dont know why, or where to turn next.

It seems as if no one knows too much about Yamaha's on these forums. I have found similar problems outlined in other threads and no help. I guess if I figure it out on my own I will continue to post my progress, if for nothing else, for some other poor soul who has a Yamaha electric and could learn from my experience.

[gaminde]

I uploaded the schematic for you, this is the best place to start. Get an idea what it's supposed to do and go from there.

[DeputyDawg]

I am currently working night shift. I should be able to do some more troubleshooting Monday ot Tuesday. The diagram will be a big help. I will let you know what I find.........

[DeputyDawg]

I have checked the wires leading to everything and they appear to be correct, per the diagram. I am now curious how to check my forward/reverse switch and controller with a volt meter. If anyone knows please relpy......

[DeputyDawg]

Update, I am waiting for my service and repair manual to arrive. I will then keep all of my progress posted. As of now , I have determined that i will probably need to replac the controller. But, I am not doing any replacing until I have properly tested it......

[Mkea]

Deputy Dawg,

I am having the same symptoms as you had.

wondered if you got your problem solved and what it was.

thanks Mkea

[stunmun69]

I am having the same issues. Come out of the woodwork Yamaha people. lol

[Vixpdx]

Woo I just got a G9e dead. Wanting to convert it to lithium. 48v. New controller 500a. All hooked up and nothing. Followed the schematics, it is missing the diodes a and b. Looking to order those online. Hopefully that will get it up and running. No movement or sound currently. Diodes is all I think is missing but someone else used a different nervous system many cut wires tape loose ends. Project for sure