Replace controller on 2001 yamaha

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  • Replace controller on 2001 yamaha

    Took cart to dealer who diagnosed prob as bad controller. This is 2001 model. Is there any tricks i need to know if i replace controller myself?? Also where can i get a reliable rebuilt?? He quoted me a price of $1500.00 for a new one. Does that sound right??

  • #2
    Seems very high to me, 500 -600 amp controller 5 to 700 $

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    • #3
      Thanks. i agree. such thing as a rebuilt? if so where??

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      • #4
        I think you're looking for stock, I would just get a programmable alltrax controller

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        • #5
          Yes they do rebuild them look on ebay they also sell new ones there, or just get a new alltrax.

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          • #6
            Thanks!! one more question, What amp do i need?? Very reasonable on ebay.

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            • #7
              First make sure you get the correct 1 for that cart. The stock controller is a 250 or 300 amp I would get a 500 amp controller. You need to figure out if your cart is series or sepex /regen first.

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              • #8
                Thanks, you've been a great help. How can i determine the series or sepex/regen?? Sorry to be so uninformed.

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                • #9
                  a regen will have 3 wires commin out of the "butt" of the motor.

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                  • #10
                    Posted earlier by pistolpete
                    a regen will have 3 wires commin out of the "butt" of the motor.
                    OUCH
                    bad regen, baad regen

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                    • #11
                      Ok, have purchased a rebuilt controller for this cart. The new one looks exactly the same as the old one. The new one has instructions telling me to check out the solenoid with multimeter. Instructions say continuity reading should be from 325 to 345. However reading is 309. Does this indicate the solenoid may be bad and that may be the problem instead of the controller?? Solenoid is much less expensive. lol Please advise. Thanks.

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                      • #12
                        Ok hope this answer helps

                        first two by the book
                        345 ohms @ 48 vdc = .139amps
                        325 ohms @ 48 vdc = .147amps

                        your reading using unknown meter to me and unknown accuracy
                        309 ohms @ 48 vdc = .155amps

                        so from high to low you are looking at 16 hundredths of an amp difference, so the answer from me is no it does not make any difference.

                        Just what you wanted a long winded answer!!
                        Updated by gaminde; April 21, 2012, 08:31 PM.

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                        • #13
                          Longwinded or not it is still very appreciated, thanks. I think we have determined the solenoid is ok but have new one to install anyway. wont hurt installing it (just in case). although new solenoid has different configurationt. The leads are located different. doesn't indicate pos or neg side. I think they are testing us. lol Just in case where can we get a wiring diagram?? prob use it later anyway.

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                          • #14
                            The new solenoid you got is most likely universal no pos and neg. If so you need to purchase external diode and install it across the small terminals. Also make sure you have a pre charge resistor across the large terminals.

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                            • #15
                              Seems like one thing leads to another. We have completed installation of controller and solenoid. We still have problem. upon activation of tow switch it blows the 3 amp inline fuse......(diode ??...precharged resistor????) I think we're in over our heads.

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                              • #16
                                Diode backward could cause this. Get yourself some two amp fuses for testing. disconnect small wires on solenoid and flip tow run switch. Also check schematics to see what fuse size should be.

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                                • #17
                                  I think we're back to square one. This model appearently does not require diode. Old solenoid did not have one after all. It was just a connector after we examined it closer. The solenoid we recieved from the dealer was not in working order so we reinstalled the old solenoid with the new controller. The new controller is same as the old one. (numbers all match) when switched from tow to run solenoid functions properly but still no go. (can hear it engage) We checked ignition switch..OK, checked tow/run switch..OK. getting 49.7 volts at the motor. We don't know where to go from here.

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                                  • #18
                                    Well lets get some info
                                    What did the cart do before replacing the controller ?
                                    What is the cart doing after replacing the controller ?

                                    Your getting voltage at the motor at what terminals is this series or sepex/regen

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                                    • #19
                                      At the beginning the cart was used one day and when we went to use it the next it was just dead. nothing, nada, kapoot. We had no problems the previous day. to the best of my knowledge it is a series cart. we have power to the solenoid. we have power to the switch. we have power to the motor. we have replaced controller with exact model originally installed. was blowing 3amp fuse with new solenoid so reinstalled original. that solved fuse blowing. only thing we have to check now is the charging receptical and the pedal micro. we have not been able to get reverse buzzer to sound either. not much else it could be. ??? Thanks for your input. battery output remains at 49.7 volts.
                                      Updated by gerryl42; April 26, 2012, 01:19 PM.

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