G22E wont move

[hayman]

Hello all
I'm brand new to golf carts and the forum. I have a problem with my cart. All the info. I have so far.
2004 G22E, Serial #Jul2-202582 - bought it used few months ago.

Before problem it usually had a click sound and short hum whenever I sat in or slightly moved the cart. Same thing when I turned on the key. I presumed this is normal. Everything worked fine.

Symptoms Recently, occasionally it wouldn't go when I pressed the throttle pedal. Let off the pedal and tried again, or couple times then worked fine.

Then today, it quit going altogether. When I turn on the key the normal "click and hum" is absent. The only way I can get any noise is by turning tow switch off, then on. Then the solenoid clicks on and immediately off. No hum.

Checked so far: Total voltage 50.4 volts. Batteries 8.3 to 8.5 volts.
Key switch checks o.k. with ohmeter, forward/reverse o.k., tow switch o.k.
Accelerator stop switch o.k.
Throttle sensor not pressed - Orange to black 107 ohms, orange to blue 4.3
Throttle sensor fully pressed- Orange to black 4.7 ohms, orange to blue 147.2
3 amp inline fuse - o.k.
Checked across solenoid terminals - continuity for a second when it clicks with tow switch actuation. Immediately goes off. Tried jumping large solenoid terminals - still nothing.

At controller - A2 to Pos - 50.4volts, A1 to Pos. - 50.4 volts

Controller - 11-9-04 Moric Ju2-10 Ser.# 311479038
Coil Trombetta 114-4811-020

Sorry for the length of this, but wanted to give as much info as I could to help with diagnosis. Any help as to the direction I should be looking would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[dougmcp]

Your system has what's called a high pedal disable feature that will not allow the cart to start by turning on the key with the throttle depressed.
Your throttle is a 0-5K resistive unit and should go all the way to 0 with the pedal released. If it doesn't go to 0 and you turn the key on, it assumes you had the throttle depressed and will not start.
Check that your throttle goes from 0 and operates smoothly all the way to 5K ohms.

[hayman]

Thanks so much. I'll check that out.

[hayman]

Thanks so much. I'll check that out.

A new throttle position sensor finally arrived. Problem is it doesn't go go 0. At 0 throttle it still reads 85 ohms. I tried it but still no solenoid click and no go. Is there a tolerance on the "0" reading of the sensor or does it need to be true 0 ohms? Sounds like I may be sending it back and getting a new control module too. Any thoughts and help appreciated.

[dougmcp]

I believe there is a small tolerance on the 0 number but I can't remember how much.
Do you have a reverse alarm with the key on?
Also check the brake switch to see that it is working or you won't get a power signal to the controller.

[hayman]

No backup alarm with key on. I checked the brake switch with an ohmeter, it's working. Do you think 85 ohms is too much on a new throttle sensor? If so I need to send it back. Not sure what to do.

[dougmcp]

I know there is a tolerance with the throttle actuator but I don't have the maintenance manual. I'm guessing 85 ohms is close but honestly I can't remember.
I'm concerned you have no reverse alarm.
Try turning the run/tow switch to tow wait a minute or 2 and switch back to run.
Have you checked your fuses as well?

[hayman]

The only fuse I have found is the 3 amp inline near the solenoid. It is good. In tow position nothing happens when I put it back in. If in the run position a small spark when inserting the fuse along with a momentary click of the solenoid. I've tried setting to tow and back on with no results.

Also, I use the cart on my farm, sometimes going over a levee etc. I had noticed that sometimes if I didn't get a run at the levee and stopped with wheels against the levee it would take full throttle and a little rocking to get over the hump. I have lifted the cart and have larger tires on it. I'm wondering if I have overloaded something on with the stock controller and motor. I'm new to all this. I don't need a "souped up" cart, its just for getting around the farm and hauling a bale of hay to the calves. If I end up needing a new controller should I get a bigger/different one than stock? I've also read somewhere that for the g22 you have to replace the motor along with the controller, is this so? Or is it just if I want to ramp up the power. Sorry for so many questions. I use the cart every day and need it up and going quickly, just not sure what the next step is. I don't want to put uneeded dollars into it, but want a reliable cart. Thanks for the help.

[Michael Eddie]

No reverse buzzer sounds like a controller issue.

[dougmcp]

I was assuming that this was a stock cart, I guess assuming was wrong.
It wasn't until this was posted that leads me to believe like Matti said above there may be a problem with the controller and/or the motor.

"I had noticed that sometimes if I didn't get a run at the levee and stopped with wheels against the levee it would take full throttle and a little rocking to get over the hump. I have lifted the cart and have larger tires on it."

Regen motors do not like to be stalled and can easily take out the controller.
The added lift with large tires puts an additional load on a stock controller that combined with stalling often ends with a cooked controller.

If the controller is an original GE 263 amp version I would suggest upgrading to the 403 amp model along with 4ga battery cables to replace the 6ga stock cables.

[dougmcp]

I just reread your post and noticed you have a Moric controller. They are a little weaker than the earlier GE models Yamaha used. Moric is a Yamaha subsidiary so that is probably why they are using them.
Your Yamaha dealer may be able to download the codes from your controller to see if it is truly bad.

[hayman]

Thanks for the info. After a lot of research, it seems I may be on borrowed time in any case with the stock motor and controller in using my cart on the farm, and with the tires I have. I bit the bullet and ordered a setup from D and D motors. 400 amp motor and programable controller, upgraded wiring and solenoid. Cost almost as much as I paid for the used cart, but should give me a reliable cart when I'm done. Thanks to all for the help.

[dougmcp]

Vic at D&D knows his stuff so you should be happy.
What exactly did you order?
Let us know how it turns out.

[hayman]

I got a 500 amp motor, and controller, larger solenoid, and larger wires. I just got them installed today. I now have a back up alarm with key on, but still no go on the cart. I have rechecked the wiring per instructions, cleaned the battery terminals. The controller is non-regen so it says to not plug in the tach from the motor. It also says " cut the red/yellow wire going to the white plug for the solenoid and tie it into the red/white wire in the same loom. I did this. I've checked for voltage through the tow switch, key switch, reverse switch, and brake switch. I still have 85 ohms on the new throttle position sensor at no throttle position. I don't know if this close enough to zero to not prevent controller activation.

The new solenoid calls for a resistor across the large terminals and a diode across the coil terminals. Presume the resistor can can go either way, not sure if the diode needs to be a certain direction. Instructions didn't say.

Also the instructions say they are for a g19, but on the controller it is written for a g22, which is what I have. They included a wiring diagram for a g 22, but all instructions were for the g 19. Are the 19 and 22 the same?

Not sure where to go, what to check next. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

[dougmcp]

The resistor is not polarity sensitive.
The diode across the solenoid's small terminals has a stripe on it that is placed facing the positive side of the circuit.
Still don't know what you ordered. How about some manufacturers and part numbers off the controller and motor?
You mentioned that the controller is a non-regen, why would that be and are you sure it's not a series controller?
The G-19E and the G-22E are both regen/sepex motor carts and I believe the motors are interchangeable.

[hayman]

Sorry, guess I mispoke, the controller is a "regen" I guess . On the front page of instructions it says:"The Tach speed limiting is disabled on all Regen Carts when using this controller. The speed sensor attached to the end of the motor is NOT used and should be secured to the motor frame."

The Controller label says: D & D DCX 500
The Motor label: Model# 170-502-0001, Serieal# 1226

The Instruction booklet that came with the controller lists "Yamaha Regen G-19" as one of the applicable vehicles, but not the G-22, but "Yamaha G-22" is written on front of the controller with felt pen. I found elsewhere on the forum that up to 150 ohms is ok for "0 throttle" on the tps.

There is a "G-19 adapter" that plugs in over the pins on the controller held in place by removing a corner housing screw and replacing it with one supplied. This adapter has two male spade connectors on it besides the standard Yamaha mulit-pin plug. I can see nowhere that theses are mentioned in the instructions, so I don't have left them hooked to anything.

I also just found in the instruction pages, sandwiched between ez-go and club car some general general troubleshooting info that includes Yamaha. It has info on blinking light on controller for trouble codes. I'll check that and get back. Thanks again.

[dougmcp]

You have an Alltrax 500 amp controller.
Here are the installation instructions, check out items 3, 5 and 6.

http://www.alltraxinc.com/files/Doc100-041-B_OP-Yamaha-G19-Install-Guide.pdf

Did you also get this wire for your solenoid in your kit?

http://www.alltraxinc.com/files/DOC100-082-A_G19-Wire-ADAPTER-dia.pdf

You should have a lot more power than you had before. Your motor is a high torque low speed (12 mph) motor.
Without the speed sensor attached you lose the regen downhill braking capabilities and the roll away function.

You can also call Alltrax for help 541-476-3565.

[hayman]

Thanks for the info. I called D&D and they referred me to the Altrax people. Talked with a very nice tech there and found the problem. There is an adapter pcb to transition from the controller to the G22 plug on my cart. As I we went through pin connections we discovered I was sent the wrong adapter. It fits the controller, fits the cart plug, but is for a club car not a G22. Bottom line, my controller isn't getting powered up. He said I would have to contact D&D to get the right one sent out. Called and they were closed for the day. (I'm in CA, they are NY). Anyway, hope to get a new one sent out tomorrow. Thanks again.

[dougmcp]

Glad to hear your getting closer, I'm sure you'll be happy in the end.
Keep us in the loop with your progress.