another new guy

[Gimpy]

I have a Cushman Commander 2200 se that is smoking like a mosquito fogger and am looking for help diagnosing the problem. #1 Cylinder plug fouls quickly but will still run; seems to have adequate and even compression. Haven't done anything but a cursory examination and am hoping someone will have a 'magic pill' for me.

[Michael Eddie]

Did you recently adjust the valves? If so and even if not.... you may be getting blow by the valve seals, you may still have good compression but the seals are letting oil in.

[Gimpy]

I've not adjusted the valves but I notice that #1 exhaust seems to have less clearance than the remainder.

Incidentally to all: pardon my bad manners- hello and I am happy to be a part of what seems to be a very helpful community.

I have been employed as a mechanic, am a certified welder 6G to 3/4T and am a journeyman toolmaker. (And OLD). I am now permanently disabled so money is tight, another reason I am so grateful for this forum.

This engine is a new design to me, inasmuch as the pistons seem to be located at zero degrees on the crank as opposed to 180 as I expected. I am almost looking forward to getting into it. Is there a crankcase ventilation method? If you remove the oil fill cap with the engine running the blow by is startling. It is almost as if the valve train is lubricated via a vertical splash method similar to the oil thrower in the old Briggs and Stratton engines.
If you can provide the valve clearance data I will gladly give that a shot.
Thanks a lot.

[Michael Eddie]

I've not adjusted the valves but I notice that #1 exhaust seems to have less clearance than the remainder.

Incidentally to all: pardon my bad manners- hello and I am happy to be a part of what seems to be a very helpful community.

I have been employed as a mechanic, am a certified welder 6G to 3/4T and am a journeyman toolmaker. (And OLD). I am now permanently disabled so money is tight, another reason I am so grateful for this forum.

This engine is a new design to me, inasmuch as the pistons seem to be located at zero degrees on the crank as opposed to 180 as I expected. I am almost looking forward to getting into it. Is there a crankcase ventilation method? If you remove the oil fill cap with the engine running the blow by is startling. It is almost as if the valve train is lubricated via a vertical splash method similar to the oil thrower in the old Briggs and Stratton engines.
If you can provide the valve clearance data I will gladly give that a shot.
Thanks a lot.

I think they have the same Robin 350cc 2 cylinder engines like in EZGO's. No they have an oil pump, I dont think they sling oil in the crank case but I never payed any mind to it when I was in there on mine. Here is the rebuild book you may be interested in http://www.golfcartsforum.com/golf-c...uild-book.html

[Michael Eddie]

By the way, I promoted your account so you can view all diagrams and manuals now. I also enjoyed reading your biography in your profile, you also discreetly informed me of an error that the biography was set too small. I increased the amount of letters the box accept 10x and made the editor box larger

[dougmcp]

to GCF chipsuzanne!
Looking forward to seeing your Cushman problems resolved.
I can certainly relate to a disabled status on a fixed income.

[Gimpy]

Thanks Matti, especially for the repair manual. I see that it has a balance shaft, which explains for me the crankshaft configuration.
I hope to have time on Monday to adjust the valves and see if that helps. It also occurred to me that I failed to mention this smoking condition comes and goes; perhaps the PVC system has a blockage as well as the potential valve clearance issue. It didn’t start smoking until about two months ago and that was not often. It may sit a week or so between uses. It smokes almost continuously now. No noticeable power loss. When it runs well, it runs well.
When I got it, it had a dead battery. Once I charged it, the cart was only running on one cylinder. I can remember thinking ‘this is nice, but it sure is slow. At least it beats walking.’ I had never even ridden in one before, much less driven one so I had no expectations at all. After a few weeks I noticed occasional bumps in performance. I checked the plugs and sure enough, #1 was fouled. What a pleasant, to say the least, surprise. Then I noticed the drive belt was significantly worn. I procured one from McMaster-Carr and it did make a difference. I can tow my 8’ utility trailer with a large load of brush quite well as long as I stay out of the mud. I have no problems with 600 + pounds of feed/fertilizer in the bed.

Is it acceptable to ask for references to parts suppliers?

I no longer own a compression gauge; perhaps I can borrow one for the local parts store and hopefully eliminate a holed piston from the list of potential suspects.

[Michael Eddie]

I wouldn't touch the valves unless it is a LAST resort. Adjusting the valves on these old worn in motors can blow out the valve seals, making you burn oil and stuck with a rebuild.

It also occurred to me that I failed to mention this smoking condition comes and goes; perhaps the PVC system has a blockage as well as the potential valve clearance issue. It didn’t start smoking until about two months ago and that was not often. It may sit a week or so between uses. It smokes almost continuously now. No noticeable power loss. When it runs well, it runs well.

Yep this reminds me of blowby on the valve seals. Smoking continuously? Time for a rebuild, that book is going to come in handy. Make sure you do everything, the crank seals, rings, valve seals, possible guides, and all gaskets.

Is it acceptable to ask for references to parts suppliers?

Yep, no problem

[Gimpy]

I wouldn't touch the valves unless it is a LAST resort. Adjusting the valves on these old worn in motors can blow out the valve seals, making you burn oil and stuck with a rebuild.

Sounds to me as though I am at the last resort.

[Michael Eddie]

Go for it

[Gimpy]

I had a chance to fiddle with the cart today; I pressure washed it last week so I could actually find the engine.
I noticed the fuel pump is powered by the pressure pulses in the crankcase; interesting.
When I drained the oil to change it, it was mostly gasoline. A gasket in the fuel pump failed and it was sucking gas into the engine. I cleaned the filter and refilled the oil, disassembled the pump and made a new gasket, sealed it with silicone and reassemble and reinstalled it. I cleaned the plugs and fired it up.
No smoke.
It has more power than ever, to the point that it will give you whiplash when you start.
Has anyone found a way to make the accelerator less sensitive? My chiropractor will find this beneficial in its present state. I would like to remedy that. While enjoying the greatly improved acceleration, I would prefer not having to strap in the garbage cans for the trip to the street.
Any ideas out there? And thanks for all the suggestions so far.

[Michael Eddie]

There are 3 spring settings in the driven clutch, this is the only way I know of that will lessen the jump, but you need experience with the clutch in order to understand how it goes back together. because its all spring loaded.

[Gimpy]

How can I get that information for the clutch, maybe an exploded parts diagram or something? I am going to get a new pump and put this one on the shelf as a spare, now that I know it was the problem. What do I need to know to get a new one? Are they all (for this engine) pretty much the same in the different cart manufacturers?

[Gimpy]

Anybody out there using electric fuel pumps?

[dougmcp]

IMO electric pumps on a golf cart are chancey, the pressure requirements are quite low and the risk of flooding the carb are high. If you did put a pump on you would also have to come up with a return line to the tank.

[Michael Eddie]

this guy swears by it http://www.golfcartsforum.com/ezgo-gas/1262-no-gas.html

[dougmcp]

I guess that's why I'm an electric guy.

[mljstar]

Just wondering if the drive belt was too short would that cause it to jump when he starts off?
Mike

[Michael Eddie]

I don't like the idea of an electric fuel pump as well Doug

mljstar, a new drive belt will cause a jump. If he purchased the wrong belt for the make/model it will cause it to run unusual. Usually an old one stretches out and squeezes shut leading to a more smooth takeoff.

[Gimpy]

I am wondering if the throttle linkage might be out of adjustment, starting the engine at a higher speed than idle. If I manually push the linkage, somewhat forcefully, to the idle position it will idle at a more appropriate RPM. That I guess will be my next adventure when time permits. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
Doug, why a return line to the tank? I understand that for diesel engines (or any 'real' fuel injection) but why on a carbureted version?

[Gimpy]

Adjusting the throttle linkage will be my next adventure. If I somewhat forcefully push the linkage to the idle stop the engine runs at a more reasonable RPM.
Doug, why a return line to the tank for an electric fuel pump? I understand it with 'real' fuel injection but not with a carbureted version. Is this in place of a regulator for the fuel line?

[dougmcp]

I'm in CA and nothing gets vented to open air so I just assumed you would need a return line. I guess the vent tube would accomplish the same thing if it should overflow.
I think I may have found a parts list source for your Cushman cart, what year is it?

[Gimpy]

Thanks for the link. My pump is working fine now with the new gasket and sealer. Once I get time to tinker with the linkage then I can move on to other fun stuff such as repairing the tail gate.

[Gimpy]

I honestly have no clue as to the year; it was assembled from parts by a golf course maintenance guy. I am assuming a lot with regards to components, etc.

[Michael Eddie]

Check the throttle flap on the carburetor, when the pedal is not depressed it should be in the fully closed position

[Gimpy]

Thanks for the advice; I should have a little time to try that tomorrow.

[Gimpy]

I found the linkage adjusted so that the throttle could not return to idle. Corrected that and it made the difference for which I was hoping; much easier to control; engine idles low enough to not engage the drive and is easier by an order of magnitude to control. I still get an occasional blue cloud of smoke but not enough to affect performance so I will live with it until I come across an electric fuel pump.
Thanks to all who chimed in with advice.

[Michael Eddie]

You're welcome, glad to hear it is fixed up to your liking for now

[dougmcp]

Congrats on the fix.

[Gimpy]

It has been a few days of use now and all seems to be well, if I have not just jinxed it. No blue clouds and I am learning how to slowly engage the drive (easing down on the pedal) so I do not get whiplash. Towed a trailer today and the extra control is marvelous as well as the newfound power. I did disconnect that annoying backup buzzer, though. The cows get the idea once I bump them and they prance out of the way. The calves do get a kick out of chasing me, though. That's kinda fun.
Fixing the horn is the next Great Adventure, once the big generator engine is repaired so the welder will work, the new fence is put up around the chicken yard, the calf pen is finished, the side field fence is replaced....
Thanks again to all of you that have contributed to improving my cart.

[dougmcp]

Great to hear it's working well for you. After all that work I think you need to rest now.

[Gimpy]

Funny, my wife just told me the same thing

[Gimpy]

It has been a while and I thought I would let everyone know that the fuel pump fix is still holding; no smoke, decent power. I still have a plug fouling occasionally and it definitely does not like cold weather but cannot complain. You guys have been great.
Thanks and Happy Holidays!

[Michael Eddie]

You should come around more often Gimpy, we were wondering about you http://www.golfcartsforum.com/ezgo-e...-1979-txt.html