Melex 412 Pot Check

[Qtband]

How do I check the pot on this cart? I have a multimeter....

[golfcartg]

Locate the two main terminals on the pot box where the wires connect. Place the multimeter probes on these terminals, one on each. Slowly press the accelerator pedal, and as you do, watch the multimeter reading. The resistance should change smoothly as the pedal is pressed down. For a typical pot box, the resistance should start low, around 0 ohms, and gradually increase to around 5,000 ohms (or 0-5k) as the pedal is fully depressed. If the reading is erratic, jumps around, or doesn’t follow this pattern, the pot box may be faulty and need replacing.

The pot box wires connect to the controller at the terminals typically labeled "Throttle" or "Signal Input," often marked as "T1" and "T2" or something similar. These terminals are typically located in a plug along with other input connections. In addition to the pot box test, you can also check your controller output as well. Set your multimeter to the DC voltage setting. Locate the controller's heavy gage output terminals, usually labeled "B+" (positive) and "M-" (negative or motor). Place the multimeter's red probe on the "B+" terminal and the black probe on the "M-" terminal. Jack up the rear wheels for safety, and with the cart powered on, slowly press the accelerator pedal. The voltage should increase smoothly from 0V to near the full battery pack voltage (or vice versa) as the pedal is fully depressed. If the voltage doesn’t increase or is erratic, further investigation into the controller may be necessary.

[Qtband]

Locate the two main terminals on the pot box where the wires connect. Place the multimeter probes on these terminals, one on each. Slowly press the accelerator pedal, and as you do, watch the multimeter reading. The resistance should change smoothly as the pedal is pressed down. For a typical pot box, the resistance should start low, around 0 ohms, and gradually increase to around 5,000 ohms (or 0-5k) as the pedal is fully depressed. If the reading is erratic, jumps around, or doesn’t follow this pattern, the pot box may be faulty and need replacing.

The pot box wires connect to the controller at the terminals typically labeled "Throttle" or "Signal Input," often marked as "T1" and "T2" or something similar. These terminals are typically located in a plug along with other input connections. In addition to the pot box test, you can also check your controller output as well. Set your multimeter to the DC voltage setting. Locate the controller's heavy gage output terminals, usually labeled "B+" (positive) and "M-" (negative or motor). Place the multimeter's red probe on the "B+" terminal and the black probe on the "M-" terminal. Jack up the rear wheels for safety, and with the cart powered on, slowly press the accelerator pedal. The voltage should increase smoothly from 0V to near the full battery pack voltage (or vice versa) as the pedal is fully depressed. If the voltage doesn’t increase or is erratic, further investigation into the controller may be necessary.

OK, the pot checks out good. I want to check the controller, but the terminals are not marked. Anyone familiar with this controller?

[Qtband]

By the way, the cart is quicker in reverse!

[golfcartg]

OK, the pot checks out good. I want to check the controller, but the terminals are not marked. Anyone familiar with this controller?

Typically:

A = A2
B = B+
C = B-
D = M-

As far as running faster in reverse than forwards, on the FNR switch, you could try carefully swapping the high current cables on the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock post positions.

[Qtband]

Typically:

A = A2
B = B+
C = B-
D = M-

As far as running faster in reverse than forwards, on the FNR switch, you could try carefully swapping the high current cables on the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock post positions.

I assume switch like this? With the batteries disconnected.....

[golfcartg]

Correct, those two cables run to your motor, specifically the S1 and S2 connections on the motor

[Qtband]

Correct, those two cables run to your motor, specifically the S1 and S2 connections on the motor

Should I correct them on the motor, or the switch? Does it matter?

[Qtband]

Correct, those two cables run to your motor, specifically the S1 and S2 connections on the motor

OK, I'm done checking. Nothing was wrong with the pot or controller. Moved to examining the motor. This cart has a Club Car motor that's 48 volts! No wonder it's so slow. Can I simply add another 12 volt battery to get my 48 volts, or do I need to do more?

[Michael Eddie]

For the upgrade you’ll generally need a 48v controller, 48v solenoid, 48v charger, and possibly a heavy duty forward/neutral/reverse switch. If any of these components aren’t rated for 48v, they might fail right away or gradually fail.

[Qtband]

For the upgrade you’ll generally need a 48v controller, 48v solenoid, 48v charger, and possibly a heavy duty forward/neutral/reverse switch. If any of these components aren’t rated for 48v, they might fail right away or gradually fail.

The controller is a 1204. I think that is good for 36-48 volts. I have a 48 volt solenoid on order. I'll see if the F-N-R switch holds up. Thanks