88 ezgo 2pg runs only with choke on

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  • 88 ezgo 2pg runs only with choke on

    Dry was 170lbs. Can get one wet if needed but I thought that was pretty good. Manifold was tight but can't really test for leaks w/o it running. might just change the gasket anyways. Its an 88 ezgo, im pretty sure its a single cylinder.

  • #2
    Posted earlier by sleezygo
    Dry was 170lbs. Can get one wet if needed but I thought that was pretty good. Manifold was tight but can't really test for leaks w/o it running. might just change the gasket anyways. Its an 88 ezgo, im pretty sure its a single cylinder.
    About the issue of the engine only running with the choke on, this is often a sign of a carburetor problem. Over time, fuel can evaporate and leave behind a sticky residue or varnish which clogs the small jets inside the carb. When this happens, the engine can't pull enough fuel through the carburetor, so pulling the choke helps enrich the fuel mixture temporarily but it's not a permanent fix.

    If you have already replaced the carburetor, another possibility to consider is that there could be a blockage in the fuel line or an issue with fuel delivery. If the fuel pump isn’t providing enough fuel to the carburetor, the engine might only get enough fuel when the choke is engaged as it restricts airflow and increases the fuel to air ratio. You could try verifying the crank seals are in good condition, checking the fuel filter for clogs and confirming the fuel lines are free of any obstructions. Let me know how things go.
    Updated by Michael Eddie; last week.

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    • #3
      Ive gone through the entire fuel system already with no change. I tore apart the original Mikuni carb and reinstalled with no change. A new carb behaved the same.
      I had someone else suggest cleaning the reed valve. Im going to try that next. will report back. Thanks for the feedback. Much appreciated!
      Updated by Michael Eddie; last week.

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      • #4
        Posted earlier by sleezygo
        Dry was 170lbs. Can get one wet if needed but I thought that was pretty good. Manifold was tight but can't really test for leaks w/o it running. might just change the gasket anyways. Its an 88 ezgo, im pretty sure its a single cylinder.
        The 170 psi reading you got is solid for the top end compression. That's a good sign that your piston, rings, and cylinder head are in good shape.

        There's no real way to measure bottom end compression directly like you can with the top, best thing you can do would be simply checking for leaks. Now, as for checking for leaks, you can spray starting fluid around the intake and manifold to test for any vacuum leaks while the engine's trying to run. If there's a leak, the cart may try to fire or sputter because the starting fluid is providing an extra temporary fuel source. That'll tell you if the intake gasket or manifold could be an issue, so replacing the gasket is a smart move if you're suspicious of it.

        The same approach works for the crank seals. Spray around those seals while trying to start the cart, and if the engine sputters or "wants" to run, you've probably found your issue. You can also go ahead and check the condition of the reed valve, this also works to provide bottom end compression. These 2PG engines rely heavily on bottom end compression to pull fuel into the carburetor and through the engine. If anything is leaking, the engine won’t build up enough vacuum to pull fuel properly which could explain why you're having trouble getting it to run. It doesn't really take much to blow out a crank seal, I've seen them unseat after just a simple little backfire.

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        • #5
          Thanks for the info. Im leaning towards crank seal as I replaced all other gaskets manifold/reed valve/ carb and still have the same issue. I guess its time to pull the engine.

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          • #6
            I recommend using a small amount of Loctite on the seals to keep them in place once installed. The Loctite will help prevent them from shifting, which can cause small leaks or popping out.

            How does the spark look? Are you getting a strong blue spark, or is it weak? And just as importantly, are you using a spark plug from a local auto parts store rather than an online purchase? Even if brand name, a lot of online plugs tend to be clone versions that don’t perform as reliably, even though they might look identical. Parts store plugs are often more consistent in quality and performance.

            Make sure the intake system is completely sealed with the air filter in place whenever you’re running the engine. These engines depend heavily on back pressure to operate correctly, so trying to run it without the air cleaner can throw off fuel air mixture.

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            • #7
              it has a strong blue spark. I am using a champion plug but its an amazon purchase. I'll swap it out for a box store plug. What's your take on removing the original air box and swapping out for a cold air style filter?

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              • #8
                Posted earlier by sleezygo
                it has a strong blue spark. I am using a champion plug but its an amazon purchase. I'll swap it out for a box store plug. What's your take on removing the original air box and swapping out for a cold air style filter?
                The original air box is designed to provide adequate back pressure and filtration so the engine receives the correct amount of air to mix with the fuel for combustion. This engine operates most efficiently with a specific airflow range of approximately 14.7:1 stoichiometric ratio. A cold air filter may increase airflow, but can also disrupt this delicate balance potentially leading to lean conditions. I'd wait until the engine runs smoothly with the stock air box before making modifications so you can assess performance changes without throwing in too many wild card factors
                Updated by Michael Eddie; 2 days ago.

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