Ezgo Kymco EX1 150cc EFI Engine

[Michael Eddie]

I'll include the wiring diagram here to kickstart this thread. Check back regularly for updates as we gather more information on the all new Ezgo Kymco EX1 150cc EFI Engine and continue to expand this thread.

Ezgo Valor EX1 TXT EFI 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24 (Gas) Wiring Diagram

Looking forward to sharing more insights with you soon!

Table of contents:

Post #1: Introduction
Post #2: Ezgo Gas Engine Types
Post #3: From Moped to Golf Cart
Post #4: Drive Belt & Engine/Trans/Axle Pairing
Post #5: Starter vs Stator
Post #6: The Brains Behind the Engine
Post #7 and beyond: Consumer Reviews / Commentary

• Governor Adjustment [Post #8, #17, #19, #33, #40 and #46]
• Where to Purchase Engine [Post #11]
• Engine Replacement Swaps / Alternatives [Post #13]
• Oil Change Procedure Guide [Post #15]
• Additional Photos of Engine Removed [Post #21]
• Engine Spins Only After Assistance with Hand (Troubleshooting) [Post #22]
• How To Access and Read Fault Codes, with or without Scanner Tool [Post #25]
• Hall Sensor [Post #29 and #35]
• Valve Adjustment Procedure [Post #37]
• Throttle Cable Adjustment - Engine stays running with foot off pedal [Post #40 and #42 for TXT models, Post #44 for RXV models]

[Michael Eddie]

Ezgo Gas Engine Types

Refer to this chart to determine whether you have the all new Kymco EX1 150cc EFI engine. Different engine types require specific maintenance procedures and all have their unique quirks. Here, we'll be discussing the Kymco EX1.

[Michael Eddie]

From Moped to Golf Cart

The all new EZGO Kymco EX1 engine draws its inspiration from the GY6 platform, which is renowned for its four stroke single cylinder engine design in a near horizontal orientation.

Originating in Asia, the GY6 engine has evolved into a widely adopted technology. Kymco, recognized for producing Honda clones like the Pulsar CB125 to Honda standards, played a significant role in refining the GY6 platform with Ezgo.

Under Honda's guidance, Kymco modified the Honda KCW125, also known as the "Spacy," into the GY6 standard model, which saw emulation and minor modifications by various Chinese manufacturers in other applications over the years. The GY6 engine gained popularity, especially in the southern coastal regions of China, after being imported from Taiwan by multiple manufacturers and traders.

The all new EZGO Kymco EX1 engine features a chain driven overhead camshaft with a crossflow hemi cylinder head. Fuel metering is achieved through an EFI system, typically a Keihin CVK clone or similar variant. Ignition is managed by capacitor discharge ignition (CDI) with a magnetic trigger located on the flywheel, allowing ignition firing on both the compression and exhaust strokes, also known as a "wasted spark" ignition. An integrated magneto provides power to the CDI system, while also rectifying and regulating AC power to 12V DC for chassis accessories and battery charging.

We've got it out on the bench for a thorough examination. From the top down view in the first picture, you can see the engine's layout, including the cylinder head and intake manifold, giving us a good overall perspective.

The engine incorporates a centrifugally controlled continuously variable transmission (CVT) with a rubber belt, sometimes referred to as a VDP. At the rear, a centrifugal clutch connects the transmission to a simple gear reduction unit. Notably, there is a drive clutch on the crankshaft between the CVT.

Engagement occurs via a driven clutch at the rear pulley, akin to scooter models like Vespa and Honda Camino/Hobbit. These detailed images provide insight into the engine's various components and can be used to help guide diagnostic and repair efforts.

While I appreciate the innovative approach EZGO has taken with the Kymco EX1 platform, I must admit that I have reservations about its long term durability and reliability. Traditionally, EZGO has relied on robust remote belt driven starter/generators for their engines, providing a tried and tested solution for starting reliability. The shift to integrating a stator with a start feature represents a departure from this established approach and introduces a new Taiwanese technology into the mix. While this innovation is intriguing, only time will tell how well it holds up, especially when subjected to the demands of real world usage and potential modifications that users may make, which could place additional strain on the power system. As such, while I'm open to embracing new technologies, I remain cautious and will be keen to see how this new system performs over time. More on this later.

Our discussion is ongoing, and we're actively exploring various aspects of this engine's design. We've taken a close look at some of its components, assessing overall health and identifying areas of concern. We're not done just yet. Be sure to check back soon on this fascinating discussion for further updates as we uncover more!

[Michael Eddie]

Drive Belt & Engine/Transmission/Axle Pairing

The diagram provided showcases how the drive belt is positioned on the EZGO EX1 engine. As you can see, the belt wraps around the pulleys on the engine which basically transmits power from the engine to the transmission/axle assembly. In the second half of the picture, you'll notice how the engine mounts to the transmission/axle assembly. This setup demonstrates how the engine's power is transferred.

Pro tip: If you take a close look, you'll spot an extra filter in the setup called the CVT filter. This filter is important for the Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) system. It serves a vital purpose: providing clean air to the clutch system. When it gets clogged, it's like putting a wrench in the works, it can lead to overheating and potentially damage the enclosed clutch components. Keep an eye on it every 125 hours and clean it as needed.

The all new EZGO Kymco EX1 engine is air cooled, which means it doesn't rely on any liquid coolant system like typical car engines do. Instead, it uses airflow to dissipate heat and keep things running cool. The primary cooling mechanism is the flywheel fan, positioned on the engine's flywheel. We'll demonstrate this in detail later on. For now, there's a clutch fan showcased in the pic that assists in this process. It engages with the engine, increasing airflow and further cooling the engine and clutch components. Together, these fans work to regulate the engine's temperature and prevent overheating.

[Michael Eddie]

Starter vs Stator

Traditionally, EZGO has relied on a belt driven starter/generator. This item serves a dual purpose, both starting the engine and generating power for accessories. Its external design, located outside the engine, has made maintenance and replacement relatively straightforward. Over the years, this design has become familiar to technicians and golf cart owners, offering a sense of reliability and dependability.

Despite its advantages, the belt driven starter/generator is not without some drawbacks. One significant issue is belt wear. Over time, the belt can deteriorate, necessitating replacement and potentially leading to downtime for the cart. Additionally, the belt drive mechanism introduces energy losses, reducing overall efficiency. Furthermore, its external location exposes it to potential damage from debris or environmental factors, posing a risk to its reliability.

The all new EZGO Kymco EX1 engine features an internal stator that also cranks to start the engine, representing a departure from traditional designs. The integration of the stator directly into the engine offers several benefits. Firstly, it simplifies the design, reducing complexity and potential points of failure. Additionally, without the need for a belt drive, energy losses are minimized, resulting in improved overall efficiency. Moreover, the compact internal design not only saves space but also reduces the risk of external damage.

However, this innovative approach also presents some challenges. While effective for starting the engine, its unknown how limited its functionality might be compared to the belt driven starter/generator. Moreover, integrating the stator into the engine requires precise engineering, making repairs or replacements potentially more challenging. Furthermore, the introduction of new technology may necessitate a learning curve for users and technicians, requiring additional training or support for smooth operation. The incorporation of an internal stator in the EZGO Kymco EX1 powertrain represents a rare and novel technological advancement. EZGO and Kymco collaborated closely to develop this feature exclusively for the EX1 powertrain, marking a significant departure from traditional GY6 design.

So how does this innovative stator work?

As you can see in the attached images, the stator is integrated directly into the engine, eliminating the need for an external starter/generator. (Highlighted in red, also visible in item number 27 in attached 'ex1-break-down.pdf'). When the engine needs to be cranked, the stator engages with the crankshaft to initiate the engine's rotation, thus kickstarting the ignition process. During operation, it's normal for the stator to generate heat, especially when cranking the engine or under heavy loads. This heat generation is a natural byproduct of the electrical and mechanical processes involved in powering the engine. However, excessive heat buildup can accelerate wear and tear over time. Components like the stator coils and wiring may degrade faster under sustained high temperatures, potentially leading to premature failure.

Additionally, wiring within the stator assembly is susceptible to heat related insulation breakdown or solder joint failure. Over time, these cumulative effects of excessive heat can significantly impact the stator's reliability and longevity, potentially leading to unexpected failures and costly repairs depending on its long term quality.

Upon examination, the most striking observation is the stark contrast in size between the traditional starter/generator and the innovative new stator. Indeed, the traditional starter/generator appears substantial and bulky in comparison to the sleek and compact design of the new stator. The stator's performance under real world conditions remains untested and uncertain. While initial impressions may be favorable due to its compact size and streamlined integration, questions linger about its ability to withstand the rigors of prolonged use and potential stresses associated if upgrading carts with enhanced power demands. While the compact size and innovative design of the stator are commendable, reservations remain regarding its long run durability and performance, especially in scenarios involving elevated power requirements.

Stay tuned for the next update, where we'll journey into the brain technology that drives the EX1 engine. Then, brace yourselves for the exciting moment you've all been waiting for: Firsthand experiences, problems and honest feedback from hands on encounters with the EX1. From common problems reported since its debut to candid critiques, we're offering a window into the true performance and reliability of this groundbreaking engine. We'll also dive deep into common challenges faced and triumphs celebrated, providing invaluable insights for current and prospective owners. You don't wanna miss this!

[Michael Eddie]

The Brains Behind the Engine

Let's dive into the intricacies of the all new EZGO Kymco EX1 engine and its electronic control unit (ECU) and Integrated Starter Generator (ISG) modules. The ECU and ISG modules are engineered to work specifically with the EX1 engine. The ECU serves as the brain of the engine, orchestrating the operation of various sensors and components from the fuel injector to the key switch. It continuously monitors engine parameters and adjusts fuel delivery for smooth operation. Similarly, the ISG module plays a role in controlling the starter generator system, managing power delivery between the engine, battery, and electrical system.

However, despite their sophisticated software architecture, the physical placement of these modules raises legitimate concerns, specifically, the ISG controller module. (Images attached below). Mounted directly to the engine, the ISG controller is exposed to increased heat and vibration which can potentially compromise its reliability and longevity. Now, speaking of heat and vibration, have you ever tried golfing on a volcano? Okay, maybe not quite that extreme, but, imagine the thrill of teeing off while feeling the earth rumble beneath your feet! Thankfully the Valor's sturdy construction creates a smooth ride, even on some of the most adventurous golf courses. But, lets get back to the topic at hand.

Vibration, caused by engine and terrain, can lead to loosening of various wire harness connections, potentially resulting in erratic behavior or complete shutdown of the cart. Heat, on the other hand, poses a different set of challenges. Excessive heat can degrade electronic modules causing them to malfunction or fail prematurely. Heat can also lead to thermal expansion and contraction, further stressing delicate circuitry and solder joints.

Recognizing these potential issues, EZGO has recently taken proactive steps to address them. As of 5/10/2024, shopezgo.com has been advertising the ISG as "A new, more reliable ISG controller, with a larger heat sink and improved sealing & potting around the connectors." By issuing updates to the physical design of the ISG unit, such as increased heat sinks for better cooling, EZGO aims to enhance its original design. However, the placement of this module directly above the engine remains a concern. Heat generated by the engine can easily penetrate, exacerbating heat-related issues and potentially compromising performance.

In the event of a complete golf cart shutdown or glitch, a simple reset of the computer system may be all that's needed to restore functionality. By locating the main 10A fuse near the battery, removing it for fifteen seconds, and then replacing it, you can effectively reset the ECU and ISG modules, potentially resolving computer blips without the need for more extensive troubleshooting or repairs. Shout out to benthere for mentioning this fix in this thread.

So, what can owners of EZGO EX1 golf carts do to mitigate risks? Checking that all connectors are tight, clean, and properly seated can help. Loose connections are a known issue and can exacerbate vibration related issues and compromise electrical conductivity. Additionally, performing regular maintenance checks and inspections including visual inspection of the modules for signs of heat damage or vibration induced wear, can help identify potential issues before they escalate.

But what if you want to mitigate these risks right now? Several proactive measures can be considered. Firstly, relocating the modules to a cooler location, if feasible within the existing wiring harness constraints, could potentially improve their longevity. By moving the modules away from direct exposure to engine heat, the risk of heat related issues can be mitigated in a variety of operating conditions. Installing a heat shield between the engine and the modules can provide an extra layer of protection against heat transfer, further safeguarding sensitive electronics from thermal stress and degradation.

Additionally, mounting the ISG controller module to the frame rather than directly to the engine could help minimize the effects of fine vibrations on their operation. Engine vibrations, while inevitable during operation, can be dampened more effectively when the module is mounted to a sturdy frame structure. This reduces the risk of internal component damage due to vibration induced stress.

Feel free to check out the attached Ezgo EX1 Engine Service Manual

[jsjohnson2024@aol.com]

Is it possible to make adjustments to the throttle linkage or cable to increase speed or would you cause more problems

[Michael Eddie]

Is it possible to make adjustments to the throttle linkage or cable to increase speed or would you cause more problems

The governor is set to limit the engine to 3200rpm or 12.5 MPH but it can be carefully adjusted up to 7000 rpm which is when the electronic rev limiter kicks in, I'm attaching the governor adjustment guide to this post, keep us in the loop, were eager to hear how it works out.

[jsjohnson2024@aol.com]

Thank you
will report results

[Mikeontime]

Does anyone know where I can buy this motor?

[Michael Eddie]

Does anyone know where I can buy this motor?

Part No. 680364 on shopezgo.com

There's a seller that pops up on eBay from time to time depending on seasonality. You can also consider using Ezgo's store locator to call around, or consider opening up the engine and replacing what is wrong if that is a possibility. You could find/negotiate a better deal pricewise likely heading into the off-season from fall into winter when there is slightly less demand. Hold on to the old engine if available, as it can be broken down and sold for parts.

[Mikeontime]

Thanks. Is there an upgradable motor to make it go faster that would attach easily?

[Michael Eddie]

Thanks. Is there an upgradable motor to make it go faster that would attach easily?

With gas engines, your speed is limited to how much RPM's the engine can generate. The EX1 engine is governed to 3200 RPM, but the engine is capable of up to 7000 RPM with a governor adjustment, which is quite decent. Scroll up slightly and refer to the attachment in post number 8 for details on how to adjust the governor. If the directions seem like a little too much to handle or if you have trouble reading through the article, you might consider printing the directions and sending the cart and directions to any type of repair shop, automotive shop, lawnmower repair shop, (whichever's cheapest), and they should be able to perform the adjustment for you.

In regard to a replacement engine that can be easily attached to this platform, I am going to say no at this time. Not without major overhaul. While researching the Ezgo EX1 engine, we compared it with other engines in the GY6 family to find a potential replacement alternative. Unfortunately, the mounting connection to the transmission/differential differs significantly preventing a direct swap, making it unfeasible at this time with whatever is currently on the market. (see attached photo for reference).

Regarding potential replacements beyond the GY6 family, given EZGO's unique setup with this model, you would need to obtain an alternative engine, transmission, rear, subframe, and all appropriate mountings and linkages. It would be more economical to purchase a complete cart of a different make or model.

[Mikeontime]

Let me trouble you one more time since you seem to have all the answers. What kind of oil does it take? Where do you put it in? At the top or on the bottom where the dipstick is?

[Michael Eddie]

Let me trouble you one more time since you seem to have all the answers. What kind of oil does it take? Where do you put it in? At the top or on the bottom where the dipstick is?

Here is the oil change guide, but if you have any questions feel free to ask

[altde40@gmail.com]

2022 ezgo ex1 adjusted governor now it surges cuts off let off on the accelerator its starts up and in 3 sec does it again. What else do I need to adjust to keep it going at top speed
Here are 3 pic of my engine the only label that I can find

[Michael Eddie]

2022 ezgo ex1 adjusted governor now it surges cuts off let off on the accelerator its starts up and in 3 sec does it again. What else do I need to adjust to keep it going at top speed
Here are 3 pic of my engine the only label that I can find

Since we've confirmed your Ezgo is indeed equipped with the EX1 engine, could you walk me through the steps you've already taken on what adjustments to the cable you've done so far and where, and the specific increase in speed you've observed so far. The more details you provide, the better I can assist in fine tuning your setup.

For reference, the governor adjustment should only be done by reducing the threads at this red arrow in the attached photo, a little at a time, while taking note of any increase in speed. If you have adjusted the cable in any other locations, please revert it back to stock setup so we can start fresh.

[altde40@gmail.com]

That is the only adjustment I have made it is almost twice as fast but when it cuts off I backed it up a little and it cuts off at slow speed it runs better wide open don't cut off as much

[Michael Eddie]

That is the only adjustment I have made it is almost twice as fast but when it cuts off I backed it up a little and it cuts off at slow speed it runs better wide open don't cut off as much

Thanks for providing details. You might be hitting the rev-limiter at maximum RPM. One option is to play around with the adjustment and back off the cable slightly to see if that helps. Alternatively, another potential approach is to return the cable to the stock position and use a zip tie through the spring (see attached photo). The attached photo shows a red circle which represents a zip tie, looped through the center of the spring to stop it from stretching.

Normally, the governor arm pulls back against the spring at maximum governed speed, causing the spring to stretch and balance the throttle position according to the speed. By stopping the spring from stretching, the governor arm can't effectively reduce the throttle opening, keeping the throttle open and allowing the engine to achieve higher RPM's. This approach retains your throttle system's stock settings while preventing the governor from limiting the throttle.

[altde40@gmail.com]

Ok thanks I'll give it a try

[Michael Eddie]

Some more photos of the EX1 engine from various angles per CountryCat

[Jackz06]

So, I have a problem like the old setup. I press the gas but nothing.. So i barrowed a computer and ecu from another cart and no change. since it doesn't have brushes like the old carts and you replace the brushes... if I turn the flywheel it works on this new style iot works

2021 ex1 150cc kymco

[Michael Eddie]

So, I have a problem like the old setup. I press the gas but nothing.. So i barrowed a computer and ecu from another cart and no change. since it doesn't have brushes like the old carts and you replace the brushes... if I turn the flywheel it works on this new style iot works

2021 ex1 150cc kymco

Thanks for providing the picture and confirming the make and model.

We want to focus on the ISG controller (the silver computer on top of the engine), you mentioned you swapped it with a known good one, but you are still experiencing the same issue. And the ISG controllers both work normally on the other cart, is this correct? But on this specific cart, no matter which ISG controller you install, you still need to manually spin the flywheel in order to get the motor to spin?

[Jackz06]

Thanks for providing the picture and confirming the make and model.

We want to focus on the ISG controller (the silver computer on top of the engine), you mentioned you swapped it with a known good one, but you are still experiencing the same issue. And the ISG controllers both work normally on the other cart, is this correct? But on this specific cart, no matter which ISG controller you install, you still need to manually spin the flywheel in order to get the motor to spin?

Yes, the computer and the other controller box work fine in either cart.

I notice when the cart doesn't work the ck engine light stays on. When the cart works its off. I dont know if went into ecu reset mode but I got 7 blinks and there no such thing as 7.. seemed like 7 pause 1 the 7 fast.

[Michael Eddie]

You can access the fault codes without the handheld code reader using the following method:

1. Lock the vehicle’s direction selector in Neutral.
2. View the MIL on the control panel next to the key switch.
3. Turn the key switch to the ON position and back to the OFF position quickly (but not rapidly) 3 times.
4. Observe the sequence of flashes. The codes are presented after a brief 0.25 second flash to signify that codes will follow.

a. The double digit fault codes display a combination of 1 second flashes for the tens place and 0.5 second flashes for the ones place. (feel free to take a video of the flashes and post it on youtube and link it here)
b. Faults are displayed in numerical order.
c. Active faults are displayed faults are displayed whether the engine is running or not. Stored faults only display when the engine is not running
d. Codes will repeat in the same order five times.

If there are no active or stored faults, the MIL will not be illuminated. The ECM will enter sleep mode after 10 minutes of inactivity. If the key switch is in the ON position and the MIL is not illuminated, press and release the accelerator pedal to wake the system.

If you have trouble accessing the codes, the handheld scanner may be needed.

• Replace the battery with a known good battery,
• Clean the terminals and check the harness for loose or dirty connections,
• Make sure the engine crank case is not overfilled with oil,
• Replace or check the ignition relay with a known good one
• If you are unable to retrieve fault codes with the above method, and if no fault codes come up with the scanner, and the battery has been replaced with known good battery, and all connections and grounds are clean and tight, the next step is to remove the flywheel and inspect the stator (scroll up to post #5 for information on the stator)
• Please keep us in the loop, any additional information you could provide would be a valuable source for anyone facing similar problems

[johne]

Thanks for providing the picture and confirming the make and model.

We want to focus on the ISG controller (the silver computer on top of the engine), you mentioned you swapped it with a known good one, but you are still experiencing the same issue. And the ISG controllers both work normally on the other cart, is this correct? But on this specific cart, no matter which ISG controller you install, you still need to manually spin the flywheel in order to get the motor to spin?

i received my new isg and when i plug it in it wont run. I have the diagnostic tool and it says the isg version is 02-04 and on the manual i was reading it says that the isg version is 01-03. am i missing something or do i have to program the new isg. Im getting no ignition when the pedal is pressed. Ive tried to remove the 10 amp fuse nothing. Disconnected ECU and nothing. Starting relay clicks as well. Any idea?

[Michael Eddie]

i received my new isg and when i plug it in it wont run. I have the diagnostic tool and it says the isg version is 02-04 and on the manual i was reading it says that the isg version is 01-03. am i missing something or do i have to program the new isg. Im getting no ignition when the pedal is pressed. Ive tried to remove the 10 amp fuse nothing. Disconnected ECU and nothing. Starting relay clicks as well. Any idea?

The ISG controller does not need to be programmed to the cart, and different versions are interchangeable. Start by replacing your battery with one that you know is good, and clean and sand down the battery connections until they’re shiny. If the engine still doesn’t spin, refer back to post #22 to see the photo of the engine with the flywheel cover removed. Remove your flywheel cover and, with the key ON and the pedal pressed down, carefully try to spin the flywheel to help it start turning. Be ready to move away quickly, as the engine could start spinning suddenly, which could be dangerous. The goal here is to see if the engine will spin when given a little assistance.

[johne]

The ISG controller does not need to be programmed to the cart, and different versions are interchangeable. Start by replacing your battery with one that you know is good, and clean and sand down the battery connections until they’re shiny. If the engine still doesn’t spin, refer back to post #22 to see the photo of the engine with the flywheel cover removed. Remove your flywheel cover and, with the key ON and the pedal pressed down, carefully try to spin the flywheel to help it start turning. Be ready to move away quickly, as the engine could start spinning suddenly, which could be dangerous. The goal here is to see if the engine will spin when given a little assistance.

Ok ill give that a go. Im getting an ISG hall sensor fault code

[Michael Eddie]

Ok ill give that a go. Im getting an ISG hall sensor fault code

The HALL sensor is located near the stator (see attached photo, highlighted in red), and it plugs into the ISG controller. Start by locating the plug for the HALL sensor on the ISG controller, disconnect it, and blow compressed air into the pins and connectors to "clean" it. If cleaning the connector does not solve the communication problem, we need to run some tests using a DVM.

To check for an open circuit using a digital voltmeter (DVM) on the HALL sensor connector, start by identifying the GND and +5V pins on the connector (see attached diagram). First, verify that power is reaching the circuit by measuring the VOLTAGE between the +5V and GND pins, you should see around +5V if everything is functioning correctly. Next, switch the DVM to CONTINUITY mode, disconnect the plug and test for continuity between the GND pin and each of the other pins (HWIN, HVIN, HUIN). Place one probe on the GND pin and the other on the pin you’re testing, if the DVM beeps, it indicates continuity, meaning the circuit is closed. If it doesn’t beep, this suggests an open circuit, meaning there is a break in the connection, and current cant flow through that path. You can repeat this process by testing between the +5V pin and the other pins. Do not test for continuity between the GND and +5v pin, doing so would create a direct short circuit through your meter, which could potentially damage your DVM or circuit.

The pins labeled HWIN (Hall W Input), HVIN (Hall V Input), and HUIN (Hall U Input) on your connector are inputs typically found in systems like brushless DC motors, like your internal Stator. These pins correspond to different phases of the stator motor, specifically the "W," "V," and "U" phases, and provide feedback to the ISG controller about the rotor's position. This feedback is needed for proper commutation, which involves switching current between motor phases to ensure operation. The +5V pin powers these sensors, while the GND pin serves as a common reference point. Together, the signals from HWIN, HVIN, and HUIN enable control of the stator motor's speed, torque, and direction. If any of these signals are interrupted or faulty, the stator motor may experience issues like not turning, loss of torque, or inefficient performance.

If you're able to access the Hall sensor itself, blow it out with compressed air, and gently wipe it with a clean soft, lint free cloth and isopropyl alcohol carefully to avoid liquid or debris entering the sensor.

[johne]

The HALL sensor is located near the stator (see attached photo, highlighted in red), and it plugs into the ISG controller. Start by locating the plug for the HALL sensor on the ISG controller, disconnect it, and blow compressed air into the pins and connectors to "clean" it. If cleaning the connector does not solve the communication problem, we need to run some tests using a DVM.

To check for an open circuit using a digital voltmeter (DVM) on the HALL sensor connector, start by identifying the GND and +5V pins on the connector (see attached diagram). First, verify that power is reaching the circuit by measuring the VOLTAGE between the +5V and GND pins, you should see around +5V if everything is functioning correctly. Next, switch the DVM to CONTINUITY mode, disconnect the plug and test for continuity between the GND pin and each of the other pins (HWIN, HVIN, HUIN). Place one probe on the GND pin and the other on the pin you’re testing, if the DVM beeps, it indicates continuity, meaning the circuit is closed. If it doesn’t beep, this suggests an open circuit, meaning there is a break in the connection, and current cant flow through that path. You can repeat this process by testing between the +5V pin and the other pins. Do not test for continuity between the GND and +5v pin, doing so would create a direct short circuit through your meter, which could potentially damage your DVM or circuit.

The pins labeled HWIN (Hall W Input), HVIN (Hall V Input), and HUIN (Hall U Input) on your connector are inputs typically found in systems like brushless DC motors, like your internal Stator. These pins correspond to different phases of the stator motor, specifically the "W," "V," and "U" phases, and provide feedback to the ISG controller about the rotor's position. This feedback is needed for proper commutation, which involves switching current between motor phases to ensure operation. The +5V pin powers these sensors, while the GND pin serves as a common reference point. Together, the signals from HWIN, HVIN, and HUIN enable control of the stator motor's speed, torque, and direction. If any of these signals are interrupted or faulty, the stator motor may experience issues like not turning, loss of torque, or inefficient performance.

If you're able to access the Hall sensor itself, blow it out with compressed air, and gently wipe it with a clean soft, lint free cloth and isopropyl alcohol carefully to avoid liquid or debris entering the sensor.

I plugged the old isg in and ran it till it shutdown and i got two codes. ISG-C engine stall and isg-c generates over current. Kind of confirms my suspicion of a bad original ISG. Plug the new one in and nothing. Im not even getting any power to the hall sensor. Is it possible i got a bad controller? What would be the best way to test and confirm so i can order a new one.

[Michael Eddie]

I plugged the old isg in and ran it till it shutdown and i got two codes. ISG-C engine stall and isg-c generates over current. Kind of confirms my suspicion of a bad original ISG. Plug the new one in and nothing. Im not even getting any power to the hall sensor. Is it possible i got a bad controller? What would be the best way to test and confirm so i can order a new one.

To confirm, the old ISG controller works until it shuts down. But the brand new replacement has issues? Does the old ISG controller temporarily work again if you reboot it by pulling the 10amp fuse?

Little backstory needed, is the replacement brand new from the dealership or manufacturer? Clean all of the plugs on the ISG controller with compressed air and check the pins on the ISG module for damage. What P codes is the cart currently throwing (see attached chart), and are you reading them through a scanner?

[Jmeilleur]

Thanks for providing details. You might be hitting the rev-limiter at maximum RPM. One option is to play around with the adjustment and back off the cable slightly to see if that helps. Alternatively, another potential approach is to return the cable to the stock position and use a zip tie through the spring (see attached photo). The attached photo shows a red circle which represents a zip tie, looped through the center of the spring to stop it from stretching.

Normally, the governor arm pulls back against the spring at maximum governed speed, causing the spring to stretch and balance the throttle position according to the speed. By stopping the spring from stretching, the governor arm can't effectively reduce the throttle opening, keeping the throttle open and allowing the engine to achieve higher RPM's. This approach retains your throttle system's stock settings while preventing the governor from limiting the throttle.

Has anyone tried the zip tie? - i sped mine up using the throttle cable adjustment method and had an issue. I was golfing stopped hit my ball, went to hit the gas and nothing at all happened. no fuel pump nothing.. Finally it started up and went. I brought it to the shop and they stated the issue wasnt the ISG controller but leaned more to a govner/pedal issue... The cart currently goes around 13.5-14.5 mph but id like to get it more to the 19mph range. 2020 EX1 RXV fleet.

thanks

[Michael Eddie]

Has anyone tried the zip tie? - i sped mine up using the throttle cable adjustment method and had an issue. I was golfing stopped hit my ball, went to hit the gas and nothing at all happened. no fuel pump nothing.. Finally it started up and went. I brought it to the shop and they stated the issue wasnt the ISG controller but leaned more to a govner/pedal issue... The cart currently goes around 13.5-14.5 mph but id like to get it more to the 19mph range. 2020 EX1 RXV fleet.

thanks

The great thing about the zip tie method is that it allows for easy experimentation, you can adjust the tension by tightening or loosening the zip tie, and if you encounter any issues, it's simple to remove to return to the original settings without any hassle.

[johne]

To confirm, the old ISG controller works until it shuts down. But the brand new replacement has issues? Does the old ISG controller temporarily work again if you reboot it by pulling the 10amp fuse?

Little backstory needed, is the replacement brand new from the dealership or manufacturer? Clean all of the plugs on the ISG controller with compressed air and check the pins on the ISG module for damage. What P codes is the cart currently throwing (see attached chart), and are you reading them through a scanner?

So heres the back story. I ordered a replacment controller off of ebay and i u plug it in and nothing. I have the diagnostic tool and it says ISG-c Hall sensor fault. So i unplug that isg and plug in the old one and it will run on jack stands for about 10 minutes before it will have an active fault code that reads ISG-c Generates over current and ISG-c Engine shut down. So i figured it might be a faulty controller from ebay so the company i work for took the old one to a dealership and got the exact same isg and when i plug it in nothing. I try and spin the fly wheel and it will wiggle like it wants to turn over but wont. Battery is new and properly connected everywhere and that produces the hall sensor fault which makes me wonder if the hall sensor is the problem due to too much power over time. Might explain why the old one works. Thoughts? Also do you have a pn for a the hall sensor ?

[Michael Eddie]

So heres the back story. I ordered a replacment controller off of ebay and i u plug it in and nothing. I have the diagnostic tool and it says ISG-c Hall sensor fault. So i unplug that isg and plug in the old one and it will run on jack stands for about 10 minutes before it will have an active fault code that reads ISG-c Generates over current and ISG-c Engine shut down. So i figured it might be a faulty controller from ebay so the company i work for took the old one to a dealership and got the exact same isg and when i plug it in nothing. I try and spin the fly wheel and it will wiggle like it wants to turn over but wont. Battery is new and properly connected everywhere and that produces the hall sensor fault which makes me wonder if the hall sensor is the problem due to too much power over time. Might explain why the old one works. Thoughts? Also do you have a pn for a the hall sensor ?

Thanks for the back story. At this time, the HALL sensor can only be purchased as an assembly with the Stator (EZGO P/N 696523). To confirm the problem, I would check for an open circuit using a digital voltmeter on the HALL sensor connector (see attached photo guide below and scroll up to post #29).

[ford@garratech.com]

I need to adjust the valves on my 2020 EZGO EX1 engine and cannot find any instructions or gap information anywhere. Is there someone in the forum that can help?

[Michael Eddie]

I need to adjust the valves on my 2020 EZGO EX1 engine and cannot find any instructions or gap information anywhere. Is there someone in the forum that can help?

With the valve cover removed and on an engine that is not hot/warm, place the piston at just past top dead center of the compression stroke by turning the crankshaft in its normal rotational direction. Check the valve clearance with a feeler gauge. Measure the valve clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem end. Valve clearance when cold should be 0.10mm - 0.12mm which is 0.004 - 0.005 inches. See attached guide for more details.

[ford@garratech.com]

With the valve cover removed and on an engine that is not hot/warm, place the piston at just past top dead center of the compression stroke by turning the crankshaft in its normal rotational direction. Check the valve clearance with a feeler gauge. Measure the valve clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem end. Valve clearance when cold should be 0.10mm - 0.12mm which is 0.004 - 0.005 inches. See attached guide for more details.

Thank you so much Michael. This is exactly what I needed.

[Jmeilleur]

The great thing about the zip tie method is that it allows for easy experimentation, you can adjust the tension by tightening or loosening the zip tie, and if you encounter any issues, it's simple to remove to return to the original settings without any hassle.

I tried the zip tie, and got it going really good - too fast honestly. I cut the zip tie and now when i let off the gas the engine will stay running.. Did i mess something up? stretch the cable? is the cable too tight?

[Michael Eddie]

I tried the zip tie, and got it going really good - too fast honestly. I cut the zip tie and now when i let off the gas the engine will stay running.. Did i mess something up? stretch the cable? is the cable too tight?

Thank you for the followup, and I’m glad to hear the zip tie method gave you the extra speed even if it was a bit too fast. Just to clarify, the governor’s job is to "pull back" on the throttle cable as you gain speed, and the zip tie essentially prevents the governor from doing that, allowing the cart to run faster. If you want to experiment further, you could try using a looser zip tie to find a balance between more speed and keeping things under control.

As for the issue where the engine stays running after you let off the gas, that’s likely related to the microswitch in the pedal box. This switch is responsible for cutting off the engine when you release the accelerator (see attached picture). Try manually pulling back gently on the accelerator pedal by hand to see if that helps activate the pedal microswitch and shuts off the engine. If not, I’d recommend double checking that the accelerator pedal is fully engaging this microswitch. If you access the box, you can open it and manually press on the microswitch to see if the engine shuts off. If it does, that would confirm the pedal isn’t making proper contact.

Once you’ve confirmed whether or not the microswitch is the issue, let me know, and I can walk you through the necessary adjustments to allow it to function properly.

[Jmeilleur]

Thank you for the followup, and I’m glad to hear the zip tie method gave you the extra speed even if it was a bit too fast. Just to clarify, the governor’s job is to "pull back" on the throttle cable as you gain speed, and the zip tie essentially prevents the governor from doing that, allowing the cart to run faster. If you want to experiment further, you could try using a looser zip tie to find a balance between more speed and keeping things under control.

As for the issue where the engine stays running after you let off the gas, that’s likely related to the microswitch in the pedal box. This switch is responsible for cutting off the engine when you release the accelerator (see attached picture). Try manually pulling back gently on the accelerator pedal by hand to see if that helps activate the pedal microswitch and shuts off the engine. If not, I’d recommend double checking that the accelerator pedal is fully engaging this microswitch. If you access the box, you can open it and manually press on the microswitch to see if the engine shuts off. If it does, that would confirm the pedal isn’t making proper contact.

Once you’ve confirmed whether or not the microswitch is the issue, let me know, and I can walk you through the necessary adjustments to allow it to function properly.

I did open the floor up, and noticed there was a OLD golf tee kind of sitting behind the gas pedal and microswitch.. I removed that it and still didnt make a difference, but the switch is definitely opening right up.

[Michael Eddie]

I did open the floor up, and noticed there was a OLD golf tee kind of sitting behind the gas pedal and microswitch.. I removed that it and still didnt make a difference, but the switch is definitely opening right up.

It sounds like you’re on the right track, but just to be clear, the pedal box should be a sealed box. The fact that there was an old golf tee in there might suggest someone used it as a prop to help engage the microswitch at some point. However, that’s more of a workaround than a proper fix, so it’s good that you removed it.

The next step I’d recommend is to remove the microswitch itself and activate it manually by hand. This will help determine whether the issue lies with the switch. Luckily EZGO used a very simple system here with just an on/off switch that should operate when the pedal is pressed. Once you test it, let me know how it goes, and we can go from there! Feel free to add some pictures if possible.

[Jmeilleur]

It sounds like you’re on the right track, but just to be clear, the pedal box should be a sealed box. The fact that there was an old golf tee in there might suggest someone used it as a prop to help engage the microswitch at some point. However, that’s more of a workaround than a proper fix, so it’s good that you removed it.

The next step I’d recommend is to remove the microswitch itself and activate it manually by hand. This will help determine whether the issue lies with the switch. Luckily EZGO used a very simple system here with just an on/off switch that should operate when the pedal is pressed. Once you test it, let me know how it goes, and we can go from there! Feel free to add some pictures if possible.

Interesting.. My pedal box looked different... The throttle cable was directly attached to the pedal, and there was a switch behind the pedal that engages and disengages as you push the pedal down.. am i missing something here?

[Michael Eddie]

Interesting.. My pedal box looked different... The throttle cable was directly attached to the pedal, and there was a switch behind the pedal that engages and disengages as you push the pedal down.. am i missing something here?

I had to scroll up and revisit your first post. The RXV uses different pedals, but the underlying concept remains the same. Both systems operate on similar principles when it comes to throttle interactions. The key differences might be in the design specifics and how the components are arranged, but the fundamental operations and troubleshooting approaches are quite similar. See attached diagram, this should help in understanding how the system looks across different models, specifically, the RXV vs the TXT models. The highlighted accelerator Molex switch (EZGO part # 612889) deactivates the engine.

[Jmeilleur]

I had to scroll up and revisit your first post. The RXV uses different pedals, but the underlying concept remains the same. Both systems operate on similar principles when it comes to throttle interactions. The key differences might be in the design specifics and how the components are arranged, but the fundamental operations and troubleshooting approaches are quite similar. See attached diagram, this should help in understanding how the system looks across different models, specifically, the RXV vs the TXT models. The highlighted accelerator Molex switch (EZGO part # 612889) deactivates the engine.

Thats the one. I will double check it. Its just weird that it was all normal until i put a ziptie in the governor spring.

[Michael Eddie]

Thats the one. I will double check it. Its just weird that it was all normal until i put a ziptie in the governor spring.

The governor is designed to "pull back" on the throttle cable as speed increases, and the zip tie prevents it from doing that, allowing the cart to go faster. The issue of the engine staying on after letting off the gas could be a result of too much tension on the zip tie. Even though you’ve removed the zip tie, it’s possible that the throttle is now out of adjustment. The tension from the zip tie in combination with the increased speed and governor pull back could have pulled it slightly out of adjustment, causing the throttle and/or accelerator switch to stay partially open. Try activating the accelerator pedal switch by hand to see if it properly shuts off the engine.

You can lift the rear wheels of the cart onto jack stands and run the engine to observe the governor system in action. By doing this, you’ll be able to see how the governor spring adjusts as the speed increases and where it begins to pull back on the throttle cable. Next, try it with a loose zip tie. This visual inspection will help you pinpoint any issues or misalignments in the system, allowing you to identify where it may have come out of tune and needs adjustment.

[rose88]

You can access the fault codes without the handheld code reader using the following method:

1. Lock the vehicle’s direction selector in Neutral.
2. View the MIL on the control panel next to the key switch.
3. Turn the key switch to the ON position and back to the OFF position quickly (but not rapidly) 3 times.
4. Observe the sequence of flashes. The codes are presented after a brief 0.25 second flash to signify that codes will follow.

a. The double digit fault codes display a combination of 1 second flashes for the tens place and 0.5 second flashes for the ones place. (feel free to take a video of the flashes and post it on youtube and link it here)
b. Faults are displayed in numerical order.
c. Active faults are displayed faults are displayed whether the engine is running or not. Stored faults only display when the engine is not running
d. Codes will repeat in the same order five times.

If there are no active or stored faults, the MIL will not be illuminated. The ECM will enter sleep mode after 10 minutes of inactivity. If the key switch is in the ON position and the MIL is not illuminated, press and release the accelerator pedal to wake the system.

If you have trouble accessing the codes, the handheld scanner may be needed.

• Replace the battery with a known good battery,
• Clean the terminals and check the harness for loose or dirty connections,
• Make sure the engine crank case is not overfilled with oil,
• Replace or check the ignition relay with a known good one
• If you are unable to retrieve fault codes with the above method, and if no fault codes come up with the scanner, and the battery has been replaced with known good battery, and all connections and grounds are clean and tight, the next step is to remove the flywheel and inspect the stator (scroll up to post #5 for information on the stator)
• Please keep us in the loop, any additional information you could provide would be a valuable source for anyone facing similar problems

Michael 1st off great write up...

I have a cart with similar problems as to the ISG, Customer has already replaced it and still no crank. I checked the voltage going in and its 12.6v but once it gets to the relay the # 421 which is the starter relay Im assuming theres nothing coming out.

No power at key switch which they have replaced with a CC switch. It has lights and all work with turn signals and horn. Light switch is a push/pull not sure if that was added as well?

Have not checked the pedal switch, was trying to figure the path of power on this cart?

[Michael Eddie]

Michael 1st off great write up...

I have a cart with similar problems as to the ISG, Customer has already replaced it and still no crank. I checked the voltage going in and its 12.6v but once it gets to the relay the # 421 which is the starter relay Im assuming theres nothing coming out.

No power at key switch which they have replaced with a CC switch. It has lights and all work with turn signals and horn. Light switch is a push/pull not sure if that was added as well?

Have not checked the pedal switch, was trying to figure the path of power on this cart?

Sounds like you're off to a good start. To really nail down the root cause, could you ask the customer for a bit more context? Could they walk you through what was happening right before the no crank issue started? For example, any unusual noises, inconsistent starts, or other quirks leading up to it? Even small details could hold the key to understanding and pinpointing the problem.

[rose88]

Sounds like you're off to a good start. To really nail down the root cause, could you ask the customer for a bit more context? Could they walk you through what was happening right before the no crank issue started? For example, any unusual noises, inconsistent starts, or other quirks leading up to it? Even small details could hold the key to understanding and pinpointing the problem.

Well here's the update: Turned out to be the 10-amp fuse. Looked like it was in the spade terminals and checked good with meter but after removing it I seen it was beside the spade terminals, so it was on/off making contact.