88 EZGO Marathon won't move

[John99]

Engine starts, primary and secondary clutches engage but cart just makes whining sound and won't go. Took off transaxle cover, lots of oil, no shavings. I turn the secondary clutch by hand, all the gears in the transaxle turn, but the wheels do not. Any ideas are appreciated. John

[Michael Eddie]

Hello, assuming it’s actually running (engine is revving, exhaust is getting hot) the first thing I would check for is a stripped hub, common occurrence around that year.

[John99]

Yes, it actually runs. How would I check for a stripped hub? Not sure what that is. Thank you!

[John99]

And the wheels do turn when I rotate the clutch. I had the parking brake on and so the wheels would not turn!!! LOL

[Michael Eddie]

To tackle this issue, we need to start by removing any hub caps and dust covers on both sides, identified as item number 108. Once that's done, keep the tires on the ground and have someone sit in the cart to run the engine. While the engine is running, your job is to observe carefully and check if the nuts are spinning on either side, marked as item number 106.

[John99]

THANKS!! Will take a bit of time...

[John99]

So I put the wheels on the ground and spun the drive pulley on the differential. Nut on left wheel turns, right does not. Differential gears look like they work right. So it seems the left axle is not sheared/broke. Maybe the splines on the left shaft or drum are bad? Though it seems unlikely. Any ideas are welcome! Thanks

[Michael Eddie]

The problem likely lies within the splines on the left hub assembly. Consider replacing item 101 on that side, and it might be worth thinking about buying replacements for both sides as a precautionary measure. The other hub might be similarly compromised and just hanging on by a thread. They may offer HD versions, which are usually not necessary. As you proceed with the repair, make sure that you tighten the bolt to a heavy torque specification preferably between 110-130 ft-lbs (very tight is important). Before installing the new hub, make sure you give both the axle shaft end and the inside of the new hub a good cleaning. Grab some brake cleaner and a clean rag, and scrub away any gunk or oil film that's hanging around. We want everything squeaky clean before we put it all back together for a good bond. Finally, when you're putting in the cotter pin, don't back out the bolt to find the hole. Instead, move it forward to the next thread if anything. If you decide to take it to a shop, make sure to let them know about the tightening specifications.

[John99]

Will get the wheel and brake hub off and check out the splines. THANKS!

[John99]

So the brake drum/hub splines are worn down and I will replace both of them. The axle splines are ok but have some wear too. Is the axle a replaceable thing? I don't see them available for gas carts. THANKS!

[John99]

I cannot get the new brake drum on...the axle splines are rolled over pretty good on the end. In the photo, that's not grease at the spline ends (in the grooves)...that's metal deposits. I think I can get a new axle for it....is that the best solution here? New bearings also?

Thanks!

[Michael Eddie]

Thank you for the update and for taking the time to provide details and images. Before proceeding with axle shaft replacement, I would suggest exploring an alternative approach, using a small die grinder equipped with a fine cutting wheel (for metal), you can carefully regroove the splines at the end of the shaft. Start by cleaning the area thoroughly with a wire wheel attachment to remove any debris. Then, shine a bright light on it for good visibility, and proceed cautiously with the cutting wheel to reshape the splines as needed.

[John99]

Will do it. Thanks!

[John99]

Got it fixed, thanks for the help! Happy wife, happy life....