Ezgo Marathon 2 cycle won't work

[Rabbit]

I have a 1991 Marathon 2 cycle that I have had all kinds of trouble with. The problem now is it's not getting power through the solenoid. This is the second new one and something is not right. I even put the old one back on that I had to beat on with a hammer to get it to work and it wont work at all now. I get power through the key switch and to the transmission selector but thats it. And help would be greatly apprecated
!

[golfcartg]

Hello and welcome! Imagine the electrical circuit like a network of roads running electricity to different parts of your golf cart. I'll be your guide today, lets navigate you to a solution.

First off, there's a thick cable connecting the positive side of the battery to a large solenoid lug. This connection is always live, meaning electricity flows through it all the time. Then, a smaller wire splits from there and goes to a fuse, which acts as a safety checkpoint. After passing through the fuse, the wire continues to the "hot" side of the key switch, which is the part that carries electricity when the key is turned on. If everything is working correctly, the fuse should stay intact, indicating a healthy circuit.

Next, from the key switch, another wire branches out to power the buzzer switch. If this wire is faulty, it would either blow the fuse right away or only when you try to reverse the cart. Moving on from the key switch, there's a wire that leads to the neutral switch, located near the big reverse switch on the passenger side. This connection is important for smooth operation. If it's problematic, the fuse would blow as soon as you turn the key.

Now, from the neutral switch, there's a wire that goes to one side of the pedal switch, which is responsible for activating the cart. This wire should also be in good condition, or else the fuse would blow immediately. However, the tricky part comes in with the wire from the pedal switch to the small positive side of the solenoid. Right here is where things can get dicey. There might be something in the switch causing a short circuit when you press the pedal. Or, it's more likely that the wire itself is shorting somewhere along its length. Carefully inspect both ends of the wire for any signs of contact, and check the insulation along its entire length for any areas where it might be rubbing against something.

If everything seems fine with the wire, then the culprit could be the solenoid itself, which might need replacing.

[Rabbit]

Hello and welcome! Imagine the electrical circuit like a network of roads running electricity to different parts of your golf cart. I'll be your guide today, lets navigate you to a solution.

First off, there's a thick cable connecting the positive side of the battery to a large solenoid lug. This connection is always live, meaning electricity flows through it all the time. Then, a smaller wire splits from there and goes to a fuse, which acts as a safety checkpoint. After passing through the fuse, the wire continues to the "hot" side of the key switch, which is the part that carries electricity when the key is turned on. If everything is working correctly, the fuse should stay intact, indicating a healthy circuit.

Next, from the key switch, another wire branches out to power the buzzer switch. If this wire is faulty, it would either blow the fuse right away or only when you try to reverse the cart. Moving on from the key switch, there's a wire that leads to the neutral switch, located near the big reverse switch on the passenger side. This connection is important for smooth operation. If it's problematic, the fuse would blow as soon as you turn the key.

Now, from the neutral switch, there's a wire that goes to one side of the pedal switch, which is responsible for activating the cart. This wire should also be in good condition, or else the fuse would blow immediately. However, the tricky part comes in with the wire from the pedal switch to the small positive side of the solenoid. Right here is where things can get dicey. There might be something in the switch causing a short circuit when you press the pedal. Or, it's more likely that the wire itself is shorting somewhere along its length. Carefully inspect both ends of the wire for any signs of contact, and check the insulation along its entire length for any areas where it might be rubbing against something.

If everything seems fine with the wire, then the culprit could be the solenoid itself, which might need replacing.

From what I've checked it's pointing to the switch in the pedal. All the wires are good to the transmission switch. Haven't been able to check the wire from the transmission switch to the pedal switch yet. Almost has to be one or the other. Thanks for the information. It makes everything I've done so far make more since