accelerator pedal issue

[Marimbaman]

Hi, I have a 1998 txt 36 volt ezgo which runs but only at highest speed! Replaced the induction throttle sensor but noticed the rod entering the ITS is not aligned properly, it actually rubs inside the sensor. How can I properly align the rod. Looking for new replacement accelerator pedal units but can only find newer (2000 and up 48 volt units)) Can I use a newer 48 volt unit? Maybe reuse my Induction throttle sensor?

[cybercart]

That rod alignment is definitely the problem
It’s like trying to jam a square peg in a round hole, its no wonder you’re stuck at full speed!! Try to loosen it up, give it a little wiggle and see if you can align it. Don’t go all Hulk on it, just finesse it a bit

[golfcartg]

It’s possible that if the old sensor was misaligned and the new sensor has the same problem there could be something else affecting the alignment, like the way the accelerator pedal or linkage is positioned.

To really get to the bottom of it, I’d ask you to take a few pictures of the setup from different angles. That way, we can get a better look at how the rod, pedal, and sensor are all interacting. Also, if you can snap a pic of the pedal assembly, it could help determine if there’s a problem with the way the pedal is mounted or the way it’s engaging the rod.

I’m attaching the alignment guide that might help clarify things a bit more. As for using a newer 48 volt unit, you can often reuse the ITS from your old setup, but you’ll need to verify that the mounting and rod connections on the newer pedal match up with your cart’s system. If there’s a mismatch, it could cause alignment problems again. Feel free to ask if you have any questions along the way

[Marimbaman]

It’s possible that if the old sensor was misaligned and the new sensor has the same problem there could be something else affecting the alignment, like the way the accelerator pedal or linkage is positioned.

To really get to the bottom of it, I’d ask you to take a few pictures of the setup from different angles. That way, we can get a better look at how the rod, pedal, and sensor are all interacting. Also, if you can snap a pic of the pedal assembly, it could help determine if there’s a problem with the way the pedal is mounted or the way it’s engaging the rod.

I’m attaching the alignment guide that might help clarify things a bit more. As for using a newer 48 volt unit, you can often reuse the ITS from your old setup, but you’ll need to verify that the mounting and rod connections on the newer pedal match up with your cart’s system. If there’s a mismatch, it could cause alignment problems again. Feel free to ask if you have any questions along the way

thanks for the confirmation, I will pull the assembly to see what I can do. The box the ITS is mounted in is plastic, maybe warped?

[golfcartg]

thanks for the confirmation, I will pull the assembly to see what I can do. The box the ITS is mounted in is plastic, maybe warped?

There might be a bit of warpage as you can see in the attached photo, but the system should have enough adjustment room to compensate for any slight imperfections

[Marimbaman]

There might be a bit of warpage as you can see in the attached photo, but the system should have enough adjustment room to compensate for any slight imperfections

I don't see any capacity for adjustment, just tried using washer shims under ITS but waiting for part to test.

[golfcartg]

The washer shims idea could help, but it’s surprising that there’s no clear adjustment. I’m curious to see how the new part fits in, hopefully that’ll give more insight into what’s going on! Let me know how it goes after testing.

[Marimbaman]

The washer shims idea could help, but it’s surprising that there’s no clear adjustment. I’m curious to see how the new part fits in, hopefully that’ll give more insight into what’s going on! Let me know how it goes after testing.

Well.........its a 2002. Tested with new micro switch and still only full speed ahead. In pedal box, tested the white wire key on , .585v , pedal depressed, .358v at all positions. Tested the black wire with key on, .263v, and with pedal depressed, 3.75v in all positions. Is the controller bad? Its new but could I have damaged it somehow?
By the way, I replaced the lead acid batteries with a 36 volt lithium battery and installed 36 to 12 volt transformer for lights , which work. Really puzzled at this point

[golfcartg]

Well.........its a 2002. Tested with new micro switch and still only full speed ahead. In pedal box, tested the white wire key on , .585v , pedal depressed, .358v at all positions. Tested the black wire with key on, .263v, and with pedal depressed, 3.75v in all positions. Is the controller bad? Its new but could I have damaged it somehow?
By the way, I replaced the lead acid batteries with a 36 volt lithium battery and installed 36 to 12 volt transformer for lights , which work. Really puzzled at this point

1. Do you have a run/tow switch? See attached image
2. Does it try to run away immediately when you turn on the key, or only after you press the pedal it runs full speed?
3. Does it still try to run away with the ITS sensor and microswitch unplugged?

[Marimbaman]

1. Do you have a run/tow switch? See attached image
2. Does it try to run away immediately when you turn on the key, or only after you press the pedal it runs full speed?
3. Does it still try to run away with the ITS sensor and microswitch unplugged?

Its a series, no tow switch. Only runs with pedal pressed, won't run with ITS or micro switch unplugged

[Marimbaman]

Its a series, no tow switch. Only runs with pedal pressed, won't run with ITS or micro switch unplugged

What's with the crazy volt readings?

[golfcartg]

What's with the crazy volt readings?

To begin testing, let's set up your volt meter to measure volts particularly up to 48V.

1. You’ll want to turn the dial to the DC Volts (V) setting, which is usually marked with a “V” and a straight line (not the wavy one, that's for AC voltage). Since you’re measuring up to 48 volts, confirm the range is set to at least 50V or higher. If your meter has an auto ranging feature, it will automatically choose the correct range.
2. Raise the rear wheels for safety: The cart may try to move during testing. Using a jack, lift the rear wheels off the ground and make sure the cart is securely supported. Try not to run the cart on jack stands for long, just enough to get your readings. We don’t want the motor to exceed 5500 RPM. If needed, label and disconnect the motor cables before testing to be safe.

For the test:

1. Place the black probe of your volt meter on the main pack negative terminal of your battery pack.
2. Keep all plugs connected, including the controller plug. With your red probe, probe controller pin 2, which is the black wire on the controller.
3. Press the pedal a little. Wait for the pedal microswitch to activate and press just enough for the solenoid to click. At this point, your volt meter should show a voltage reading. Post your result. You are looking for either 9v-12v or 13v-16v

Let me know what your exact voltage reading is so we can continue troubleshooting. From your previous readings, we need to rule out any other issues before assuming the controller is faulty.

[Marimbaman]

good morning, I tested the black wire at the controller and operated the pedal. Voltage is constant at 3.75dc from min. to max pedal travel. I also tested the B+ to M voltage and got 39.4dc from min to max pedal travel. I have the old controller and think I should try it again. I replaced it when I got the cart (freebie) since I had no idea what was needed?

[golfcartg]

good morning, I tested the black wire at the controller and operated the pedal. Voltage is constant at 3.75dc from min. to max pedal travel. I also tested the B+ to M voltage and got 39.4dc from min to max pedal travel. I have the old controller and think I should try it again. I replaced it when I got the cart (freebie) since I had no idea what was needed?

The black wire supplies voltage to the Inductive Throttle Sensor (ITS). During this test, the voltage reading should be between 9V and 12V. If you're only measuring 3.75V, it indicates a potential issue with the controller. Before replacing it, you can swap in your old controller and check the results again for comparison. However, we need to confirm that the controller is faulty before proceeding with a replacement. To be thorough, there are two additional tests we can perform to further verify whether the controller is indeed the problem.

Lift rear wheels off ground for safety. Install a jumper wire from the main positive terminal of the battery pack to the small post on the solenoid that has the red wires connected to it; this step energizes the controller. With the key turned ON and the Forward/Reverse switch set to FORWARD, place the black probe of your voltmeter on the pack's main negative terminal and the red probe on the black wire terminal of the 6-pin controller connector. At this point, you should see a voltage reading between 14 and 15 volts.

Next, locate the 4-pin connector between the pedal box and the controller which can be found on the passenger side of the battery compartment, and disconnect it. If the voltage now rises to between 14V and 15V after this disconnection, it indicates that there may be an issue with the Inductive Throttle Sensor (ITS). Conversely, if the voltage remains below 14V, this suggests that the controller could be faulty.

[Marimbaman]

I followed your recommendations and still get 3.75 volts dc at the black wire on controller and the same on the ITS terminal. Reinstalled the old controller but it didn't even run. Time to get a new controller?

[golfcartg]

That does sound like it might be time for a new controller. Just be cautious with some of the controllers available online. Many of them might look like the real deal but can be clones that use lower quality components which can lead to issues like overheating or premature failure. They often mimic brand names, but the internal parts might not meet the same standards. It’s worth checking the return and warranty policies for some protection if things don’t go as expected.

[Marimbaman]

That does sound like it might be time for a new controller. Just be cautious with some of the controllers available online. Many of them might look like the real deal but can be clones that use lower quality components which can lead to issues like overheating or premature failure. They often mimic brand names, but the internal parts might not meet the same standards. It’s worth checking the return and warranty policies for some protection if things don’t go as expected.

Thanks for your help and guidance, I will let you know how it goes