accelerator pedal issue

[Marimbaman]

Hi, I have a 1998 txt 36 volt ezgo which runs but only at highest speed! Replaced the induction throttle sensor but noticed the rod entering the ITS is not aligned properly, it actually rubs inside the sensor. How can I properly align the rod. Looking for new replacement accelerator pedal units but can only find newer (2000 and up 48 volt units)) Can I use a newer 48 volt unit? Maybe reuse my Induction throttle sensor?

[cybercart]

That rod alignment is definitely the problem
It’s like trying to jam a square peg in a round hole, its no wonder you’re stuck at full speed!! Try to loosen it up, give it a little wiggle and see if you can align it. Don’t go all Hulk on it, just finesse it a bit

[golfcartg]

It’s possible that if the old sensor was misaligned and the new sensor has the same problem there could be something else affecting the alignment, like the way the accelerator pedal or linkage is positioned.

To really get to the bottom of it, I’d ask you to take a few pictures of the setup from different angles. That way, we can get a better look at how the rod, pedal, and sensor are all interacting. Also, if you can snap a pic of the pedal assembly, it could help determine if there’s a problem with the way the pedal is mounted or the way it’s engaging the rod.

I’m attaching the alignment guide that might help clarify things a bit more. As for using a newer 48 volt unit, you can often reuse the ITS from your old setup, but you’ll need to verify that the mounting and rod connections on the newer pedal match up with your cart’s system. If there’s a mismatch, it could cause alignment problems again. Feel free to ask if you have any questions along the way

[Marimbaman]

It’s possible that if the old sensor was misaligned and the new sensor has the same problem there could be something else affecting the alignment, like the way the accelerator pedal or linkage is positioned.

To really get to the bottom of it, I’d ask you to take a few pictures of the setup from different angles. That way, we can get a better look at how the rod, pedal, and sensor are all interacting. Also, if you can snap a pic of the pedal assembly, it could help determine if there’s a problem with the way the pedal is mounted or the way it’s engaging the rod.

I’m attaching the alignment guide that might help clarify things a bit more. As for using a newer 48 volt unit, you can often reuse the ITS from your old setup, but you’ll need to verify that the mounting and rod connections on the newer pedal match up with your cart’s system. If there’s a mismatch, it could cause alignment problems again. Feel free to ask if you have any questions along the way

thanks for the confirmation, I will pull the assembly to see what I can do. The box the ITS is mounted in is plastic, maybe warped?

[golfcartg]

thanks for the confirmation, I will pull the assembly to see what I can do. The box the ITS is mounted in is plastic, maybe warped?

There might be a bit of warpage as you can see in the attached photo, but the system should have enough adjustment room to compensate for any slight imperfections

[Marimbaman]

There might be a bit of warpage as you can see in the attached photo, but the system should have enough adjustment room to compensate for any slight imperfections

I don't see any capacity for adjustment, just tried using washer shims under ITS but waiting for part to test.

[golfcartg]

The washer shims idea could help, but it’s surprising that there’s no clear adjustment. I’m curious to see how the new part fits in, hopefully that’ll give more insight into what’s going on! Let me know how it goes after testing.

[Marimbaman]

The washer shims idea could help, but it’s surprising that there’s no clear adjustment. I’m curious to see how the new part fits in, hopefully that’ll give more insight into what’s going on! Let me know how it goes after testing.

Well.........its a 2002. Tested with new micro switch and still only full speed ahead. In pedal box, tested the white wire key on , .585v , pedal depressed, .358v at all positions. Tested the black wire with key on, .263v, and with pedal depressed, 3.75v in all positions. Is the controller bad? Its new but could I have damaged it somehow?
By the way, I replaced the lead acid batteries with a 36 volt lithium battery and installed 36 to 12 volt transformer for lights , which work. Really puzzled at this point

[golfcartg]

Well.........its a 2002. Tested with new micro switch and still only full speed ahead. In pedal box, tested the white wire key on , .585v , pedal depressed, .358v at all positions. Tested the black wire with key on, .263v, and with pedal depressed, 3.75v in all positions. Is the controller bad? Its new but could I have damaged it somehow?
By the way, I replaced the lead acid batteries with a 36 volt lithium battery and installed 36 to 12 volt transformer for lights , which work. Really puzzled at this point

1. Do you have a run/tow switch? See attached image
2. Does it try to run away immediately when you turn on the key, or only after you press the pedal it runs full speed?
3. Does it still try to run away with the ITS sensor and microswitch unplugged?

[Marimbaman]

1. Do you have a run/tow switch? See attached image
2. Does it try to run away immediately when you turn on the key, or only after you press the pedal it runs full speed?
3. Does it still try to run away with the ITS sensor and microswitch unplugged?

Its a series, no tow switch. Only runs with pedal pressed, won't run with ITS or micro switch unplugged

[Marimbaman]

Its a series, no tow switch. Only runs with pedal pressed, won't run with ITS or micro switch unplugged

What's with the crazy volt readings?

[golfcartg]

What's with the crazy volt readings?

To begin testing, let's set up your volt meter to measure volts particularly up to 48V.

1. You’ll want to turn the dial to the DC Volts (V) setting, which is usually marked with a “V” and a straight line (not the wavy one, that's for AC voltage). Since you’re measuring up to 48 volts, confirm the range is set to at least 50V or higher. If your meter has an auto ranging feature, it will automatically choose the correct range.
2. Raise the rear wheels for safety: The cart may try to move during testing. Using a jack, lift the rear wheels off the ground and make sure the cart is securely supported. Try not to run the cart on jack stands for long, just enough to get your readings. We don’t want the motor to exceed 5500 RPM. If needed, label and disconnect the motor cables before testing to be safe.

For the test:

1. Place the black probe of your volt meter on the main pack negative terminal of your battery pack.
2. Keep all plugs connected, including the controller plug. With your red probe, probe controller pin 2, which is the black wire on the controller.
3. Press the pedal a little. Wait for the pedal microswitch to activate and press just enough for the solenoid to click. At this point, your volt meter should show a voltage reading. Post your result. You are looking for either 9v-12v or 13v-16v

Let me know what your exact voltage reading is so we can continue troubleshooting. From your previous readings, we need to rule out any other issues before assuming the controller is faulty.

[Marimbaman]

good morning, I tested the black wire at the controller and operated the pedal. Voltage is constant at 3.75dc from min. to max pedal travel. I also tested the B+ to M voltage and got 39.4dc from min to max pedal travel. I have the old controller and think I should try it again. I replaced it when I got the cart (freebie) since I had no idea what was needed?

[golfcartg]

good morning, I tested the black wire at the controller and operated the pedal. Voltage is constant at 3.75dc from min. to max pedal travel. I also tested the B+ to M voltage and got 39.4dc from min to max pedal travel. I have the old controller and think I should try it again. I replaced it when I got the cart (freebie) since I had no idea what was needed?

The black wire supplies voltage to the Inductive Throttle Sensor (ITS). During this test, the voltage reading should be between 9V and 12V. If you're only measuring 3.75V, it indicates a potential issue with the controller. Before replacing it, you can swap in your old controller and check the results again for comparison. However, we need to confirm that the controller is faulty before proceeding with a replacement. To be thorough, there are two additional tests we can perform to further verify whether the controller is indeed the problem.

Lift rear wheels off ground for safety. Install a jumper wire from the main positive terminal of the battery pack to the small post on the solenoid that has the red wires connected to it; this step energizes the controller. With the key turned ON and the Forward/Reverse switch set to FORWARD, place the black probe of your voltmeter on the pack's main negative terminal and the red probe on the black wire terminal of the 6-pin controller connector. At this point, you should see a voltage reading between 14 and 15 volts.

Next, locate the 4-pin connector between the pedal box and the controller which can be found on the passenger side of the battery compartment, and disconnect it. If the voltage now rises to between 14V and 15V after this disconnection, it indicates that there may be an issue with the Inductive Throttle Sensor (ITS). Conversely, if the voltage remains below 14V, this suggests that the controller could be faulty.

[Marimbaman]

I followed your recommendations and still get 3.75 volts dc at the black wire on controller and the same on the ITS terminal. Reinstalled the old controller but it didn't even run. Time to get a new controller?

[golfcartg]

That does sound like it might be time for a new controller. Just be cautious with some of the controllers available online. Many of them might look like the real deal but can be clones that use lower quality components which can lead to issues like overheating or premature failure. They often mimic brand names, but the internal parts might not meet the same standards. It’s worth checking the return and warranty policies for some protection if things don’t go as expected.

[Marimbaman]

That does sound like it might be time for a new controller. Just be cautious with some of the controllers available online. Many of them might look like the real deal but can be clones that use lower quality components which can lead to issues like overheating or premature failure. They often mimic brand names, but the internal parts might not meet the same standards. It’s worth checking the return and warranty policies for some protection if things don’t go as expected.

Thanks for your help and guidance, I will let you know how it goes

[Marimbaman]

Thanks for your help and guidance, I will let you know how it goes

Back again, still not working. I replaced the controller and ITS and get the exact same readings. If I disconnect the white wire from controller and depress pedal with key on the black wire reads within spec (13.4v) but when white wire is reconnected to controller it drops to 3.73. Is it possible there is a short in the motor? With white wire disconnected the voltage drop across ITS terminals from 13.4 to 11.75. Any thoughts?

[golfcartg]

Back again, still not working. I replaced the controller and ITS and get the exact same readings. If I disconnect the white wire from controller and depress pedal with key on the black wire reads within spec (13.4v) but when white wire is reconnected to controller it drops to 3.73. Is it possible there is a short in the motor? With white wire disconnected the voltage drop across ITS terminals from 13.4 to 11.75. Any thoughts?

It sounds like there could be a short or broken connection between the ITS and the controller, specifically with the black and white wires. This would explain why you're seeing the voltage drop from 13.4V to 3.73V when the white wire is reconnected to the controller. A poor connection could be preventing the ITS signal from properly reaching the controller, leading to your issue. To test this, you can try splicing in jumper wires directly from the ITS to the controller. By bypassing the original wiring, you can determine if a damaged or faulty connection is causing the problem. If the voltage readings stay stable and the cart starts working with the jumper wires in place, it indicates the wiring was the issue.

[Marimbaman]

It sounds like there could be a short or broken connection between the ITS and the controller, specifically with the black and white wires. This would explain why you're seeing the voltage drop from 13.4V to 3.73V when the white wire is reconnected to the controller. A poor connection could be preventing the ITS signal from properly reaching the controller, leading to your issue. To test this, you can try splicing in jumper wires directly from the ITS to the controller. By bypassing the original wiring, you can determine if a damaged or faulty connection is causing the problem. If the voltage readings stay stable and the cart starts working with the jumper wires in place, it indicates the wiring was the issue.

Tried jumper wires, no change. I t does seem odd that lower than spec voltage (.380v) on the white wire causes the motor to run full speed. Seems like a controller error but I have tried 2 brand new controllers from different sources. Stumped

[Marimbaman]

Could it be a speed sensor? Non PDS, series I think

[golfcartg]

Thanks for running the jumper test, that’s a huge help in ruling out any wiring issues between the ITS and the controller. Now that we know for sure the wiring is solid, the focus shifts to the ITS. Unfortunately, the ITS can’t be easily tested due to its internal complexities which involve multiple components working together to manage the throttle signal. Because of this, I’d strongly recommend replacing it with an OEM part. If the new unit is offered with the plunger, I’d suggest going for the whole setup.

If you’ve already replaced the ITS with an “amazon special” or the like, some of the cheaper ones can be faulty right out of the box. They don't meet the quality standards needed and could cause the exact issue you're seeing. Replacing it with a high quality OEM part will completely rule out the ITS as the problem. After all, it's frustrating to replace a part only to find out it's still the weak link!

I say keep pushing forward, you’re almost there.

[Marimbaman]

I see a lot of units that say for PDS only. Is there a difference? Just the plug style or different parameters? thanks

[golfcartg]

I see a lot of units that say for PDS only. Is there a difference? Just the plug style or different parameters? thanks

The function of the ITS is the same across different models in terms of how it operates internally and regulates the throttle signal. However, the mounting setup may or may not vary slightly depending on whether it's for a PDS or non PDS system. If you call EZGO and they do not have one available, I’d recommend reaching out to Scotty B at Carts Unlimited. He can provide one that’s been tested and confirmed to work. You can email him here directly for help.

[Marimbaman]

Hi, back after a break. I have another new controller from reputable cart dealer ready to install but a question. When connecting the ground or hot wire to the battery I get a small spark with key off and lights off. There is a small current used by the 36volt to 12 volt converter for the lights. Could this arcing damage the controller? Maybe install the controller without the 36 to 12 volt converter hooked up? I see no other changes from previous posts. On my 3rd contoller and 3rd ITS?

[Michael Eddie]

Hi, back after a break. I have another new controller from reputable cart dealer ready to install but a question. When connecting the ground or hot wire to the battery I get a small spark with key off and lights off. There is a small current used by the 36volt to 12 volt converter for the lights. Could this arcing damage the controller? Maybe install the controller without the 36 to 12 volt converter hooked up? I see no other changes from previous posts. On my 3rd contoller and 3rd ITS?

It’s normal to get a spark when you’re connecting the pack if there’s a reducer for things like headlights. The spark is just from the capacitors in the reducer charging up, nothing to worry about. Just make sure all connections are tight and you’re good to go!

You mentioned this is your 3rd round, if you don't mind me asking, what was the series of events that happened when everything was working normal then you started replacing parts?

[Marimbaman]

I got this 2002 txt ezgo cart for free. Previous owner said it wouldn't charge and it sat for a couple years in a garage. I removed old batteries and replaced with 39 volt lithium battery and 36 to 12 volt converter for lights. New key switch, bypassed reed switch, installed new ITS and controller. It only runs full speed even when I replaced the controller and ITS. Checked continuity on black and white wires to ITS and all good there. Direction switch forward, Voltage at black wire on ITS is 13.25 with white wire disconnected and pedal on. When white wire is connected the black wire drops to 3.25 volts and white wire voltage is .385 with pedal on slow or fast. The ITS plunger has no effect on the white wire voltage and motor runs full speed. It seems like a controller issue but replacements make no difference? Any thoughts.

[Michael Eddie]

It really can only be the ITS, the controller, or possibly something off in the wiring itself. If it’s running full speed constantly, that usually points to either the ITS or something in the wiring affecting the throttle signal to the controller.

You may need to go through the entire wiring diagram to verify every connection just in case something is miswired or shorting somewhere. The ITS voltages you’ve observed aren’t quite where they should be, so either the controller isn’t interpreting the signal properly, or the wiring has a problem impacting the ITS signal. I see you've already ran a fresh set of wires straight from the controller to the ITS, that was a good troubleshooting step, but since it did not fix anything it only adds to the confusion. Maybe you have the wiring wrong somewhere or the diode placed in the wrong direction blowing every new controller you install?

Unless anyone has any more suggestions, at this point I’d recommend printing out the wiring diagram and maybe taking it to a reliable shop or dealer to have them go over each connection with you. Sometimes a fresh set of eyes helps.

[Marimbaman]

I had not considered the diode being the wrong direction but it might have been. The banded end was connected to the hot red wire and the other end to B- on the controller. This looked wrong on the internet so I reversed it. When I turned it on the diode immediately smoked and cracked ?

[Michael Eddie]

I had not considered the diode being the wrong direction but it might have been. The banded end was connected to the hot red wire and the other end to B- on the controller. This looked wrong on the internet so I reversed it. When I turned it on the diode immediately smoked and cracked ?

Sounds like that diode might have been installed backwards at some point which is what caused it to fail so quickly. The good news here is that when a diode is reversed it almost always blows out the diode and pedal microswitch rather than damaging the controller itself, so you’re likely still in the clear there.

The correct way to install a new diode, the banded (positive) end should connect to the red "hot" wire, while the other end goes to the B- (negative) to the controller. Diodes only allow current to flow in one direction, so reversing it can create a short and cause it to burn up like you experienced. When you install the replacement diode, double check that it's facing the right way before turning anything on.

Once that’s in place, replace the pedal microswitch as well. With the new diode installed properly you should be one step closer. Let us know how it goes and feel free to post if anything else comes up