2006 EZGO TXT stops running.

[statcat]

I recently bought a used 2006 EZGO TXT. For the first couple of months, it ran perfectly, and then it stopped on me. I thought it needed charging and charged it overnight and the next morning it still would not run so I re-seated all the connections to the solenoid and controller, and it ran fine for a few hours and then quit again. After searching the internet I replaced the solenoid and it ran for a few days and quit again. I then replaced the ignition switch, the forward / reverse switch, the pedal switch, all the battery cables and finally the controller, and it still would stop intermittently. Now the only way I can get it to run is by removing both the positive and negative cables from the battery pack, waiting an hour or so and re-connecting them. It will run for a few hours and it seems the longer that I leave them unhooked, the longer it will run before stopping. I am at my wits end. I think the only thing that I can do now is to load it up and take it to someone that can run a complete diagnostic on it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[Michael Eddie]

Given that you’ve replaced so many components and the problem still persists, it might be worth hanging on to any OEM parts you removed. Swapping them back in could potentially resolve any new issues or at least help prevent any future problems down the line. I want to be upfront about something important. Aftermarket parts are a gamble. They do not always meet the same standards as OEM parts and can sometimes be faulty right out of the box.

With that said, I completely understand how frustrating this must be. To get a better grasp of what might be going wrong, could you provide the current overall pack voltage of your batterys? Additionally providing the results from individual battery load tests would be incredibly helpful. Goal is to start with the basics to see if the issue might be related to battery performance or if it’s an issue with another part of the electrical system. If you're up for the challenge, we would then use a DVM to diagnose the problem more effectively and pinpointing the exact cause.

[statcat]

Thank You! for replying to my post. Each battery tests out at 6.2 and the pack voltage is at 37.6 volts. I am certainly up for the challenge; however, my knowledge of electronics is nil. I have kept every part that I replaced, and I bought each part from Amazon. Since replacing the controller did not make any difference in getting it to run, I am thinking of replacing it with the original Curtis unit. Do you think that is a wise move? Thanks Again!

[statcat]

Still waiting for a reply from Michael Eddie or anyone with EZGO TXT knowledge.

[Michael Eddie]

Thank You! for replying to my post. Each battery tests out at 6.2 and the pack voltage is at 37.6 volts. I am certainly up for the challenge; however, my knowledge of electronics is nil. I have kept every part that I replaced, and I bought each part from Amazon. Since replacing the controller did not make any difference in getting it to run, I am thinking of replacing it with the original Curtis unit. Do you think that is a wise move? Thanks Again!

Thanks for this. We have a few more basics to cover before moving on.

To confirm,

1. How much run time do you get currently after a full charge?
2. What do your batteries look like under load? For example, after a full charge, attach your DVM to the main pack positive and negative using alligator clips and drive up a hill while monitoring the voltage readings. After the load test is complete, compare your resting pack voltage using the attached chart.
3. Please verify which system your cart has using the attached guide

Hold off on replacing anything yet if possible.

[statcat]

Thanks again for your help with this! After fully charged, each battery measures 6.36 to 6.38 volts. The pack voltage is at 38.8. I usually charge the batteries at least once a week. My cart is the Sepex PDS. I hooked up the alligator clips and the uphill voltage averaged at 35.6 volts. When I had the pedal fully depressed up a hill the voltage was at 33.6 at the lowest. Sitting still after the run the resting voltage was 38.0. I could drive the cart for hours but when I stop even with the switch in the on position sometimes it does not start again so I unhook the pos and neg cables, let it sit for an hour or so and it will start running again when I re-attach them.

[Michael Eddie]

Since your battery voltages look good and the pack is holding up under load we’ll assume the batteries are in good shape for now and move on.

Since the problem is intermittent you'll need to be prepared when it happens again. Keep this attached guide and your digital voltmeter (DVM) on you, so you’re ready to run through some tests as soon as the issue occurs. This will help us zero in on the problem while the cart is acting up. When the cart shuts down, be sure to carefully feel around for any hot wires or components.

But now that your cart is running fine, grab your DVM and dry-run through a couple of the test pages in the attached guide, just to get familiar with the process. Be sure to raise the rear wheels off the ground for safety when performing any testing.

While the guide may recommend changing components based on certain test results, do not replace any parts just yet. Instead, relay the test information back to me, and we'll help you interpret the results before making any decisions.

[statcat]

Once again, I really appreciate all your help. Since I hooked up the alligator clips to monitor voltages it has not stopped once. I have the diagrams printed out and I am ready to test voltages as soon as it stops. I have left the clips on, and I am still monitoring the voltages as I drive it.

[statcat]

Well, I printed out the steps that you posted, and I had a lot of questions and not much success in finding anything wrong, but I am a real novice when it comes to this kind of electronics. Everything that I was able to check tested okay. I did not replace anything, but I did swap out the aftermarket controller for the original Curtis and I still have the same problem. I have to remove the negative cable from the battery pack when it stops. When I re-attach the cable and get a spark from the post it starts running again.

[Michael Eddie]

Are you saying that when it stops, the cart won’t start working again unless you disconnect and reconnect the cables? In other words, if you don’t unhook the cables, it stays dead and won’t run?

[statcat]

Yes, it stays dead and will not run until I unhook and re-attach the cables.

[statcat]

I'm thinking now that it could be the Inductive Throttle Sensor that could be causing this problem all along?

[golfcartg]

Does the solenoid click when its playing dead?

[statcat]

No, the solenoid only clicks when it runs.

[golfcartg]

No, the solenoid only clicks when it runs.

Does the reverse buzzer sound when it dies? Let’s try putting the controller in diag mode both when it runs and when it dies.

To place the vehicle in the diagnostic mode, with the key in the OFF position, move the Run-Tow/Maintenance switch to the RUN position, move the Direction Selector from Neutral to Reverse five times.

The first series of beeps (one, two, three or four) will indicate the performance option with which the vehicle is equipped. The second series of beeps will indicate the fault code (one, two, three or four followed by a pause and one, two, three or four more beeps).

It is critical to the diagnostic procedure that the buzzer be operational and can be verified by placing the vehicle in reverse.

[statcat]

The reverse buzzer does not make any sound when it dies. I have put the cart in diagnostic mode several times and I get 3 beeps and that is it. No other series of beeps sound no matter how long I wait for them. Thanks for your help. I DO appreciate it!

[Michael Eddie]

I'm thinking now that it could be the Inductive Throttle Sensor that could be causing this problem all along?

Before jumping to replace anything I’d resist the urge to start throwing parts at the problem just yet. We still have some more testing to do before we can be sure. Actually we may need to set up a time when we're both available so you can “kill” the cart - and I can walk you through some real time tests.

To begin and when the cart dies, F/R switch in Forward, key ON and charger disconnected, place the black probe on pack negative. With all the controller plugs still connected, probe controller J1 pin 4 for pack voltage. Next, check for pack voltage on controller J3 all four pins. If all is well, check for pack voltage on controller J1 pin 3 and 8. This should help rule out the charger interlock, run/tow switch, F/R switch and key switch. Write down your results carefully and share them once you're done.

[statcat]

OKAY !!! Thanks Again for your help!

[statcat]

Once again, I want to thank you for your help and wisdom. I had charged the cart overnight and the pack voltage this morning is at 38.8 volts. I followed the steps you outlined for me and with the key switch on and the F/W switch in forward and checked the J1 pin 4 and the voltage was 38.4. All 4 pins on J4 checked at 38.8. J1 pin 3 and pin 8 each showed 38.8. I went ahead and checked all the pins on J1, and each read 38.8 except for the pin with the orange wire leading to the charging port measured 0 volts. I am retired and available any time at your convenience for further tests.

[Michael Eddie]

Just to confirm, these tests are being done while the cart is currently "dead" correct?

[statcat]

Yes, "dead" as a "dead" can be. Matter of fact it still is. I unhooked and re-attached the neg and pos cables as I always do and it still won't run, but sometimes it has to sit for a while before it will run again.

[Michael Eddie]

Lets continue. For the next test, jack up the rear wheels for safety.

Same thing, key ON, F/R in Forwards, Run/Tow in RUN, charger disconnected, now WITH ACCELERATOR PEDAL DEPRESSED check for pack voltage at J4 pins 1 and 2.

If all is well, take photos and label the small connections on your solenoid. With the rear wheels still jacked up for safety, put cart in TOW, label and remove the Blue and Yellow wires on the small terminals on your solenoid. If there is a diode installed across the small posts, take note of the direction it is pointing in and remove that too. At this point there should be nothing connected to the small posts on your solenoid. Now, run jumper wires from your pack negative and pack positive to each small post on your solenoid. You want to just "touch" the small posts with the jumper wires to jump the solenoid just to see if the solenoid clicks. Polarity does not matter on the small posts on the solenoid at this point. Post results when you can.

[statcat]

To Michael Eddy, First off, I want to thank you for your expertise and knowledge that you bestowed on me with your posts. I've been waiting to post this for 3 days and I didn't want to leave you hanging. Before your last post, I had ordered an Inductive throttle sensor and even though you advised me not to start replacing parts, I already had this sensor and since it was not running, I decided to go ahead and replace it before I jacked it up and started the next set of tests that you had posted. After I had it installed, I tried to start it, and it ran. This was a first since it very seldom ran after it had sat all night. It has been running perfectly for the last 3 days and I have driven it every chance I got. So, it looks like this part has been the problem all along. I just can't understand why unhooking and re-attaching the battery cables would get it running again. Once again, I THANK YOU for all your help!!!

[golfcartg]

Thanks for the update