Tried just about everything to identify where this noise is coming from. Both axle bearings replaced, differential oil fluid changed, input bearing replaced, axles and hub inspected. What else could it be? The tires are not rubbing on the body of the cart.
2013 Electric EZGO RXV Noise Steady CLICK when being driven
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2013 Electric EZGO RXV Noise Steady CLICK when being driven
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Posted earlier by golfcartgThe noise is definitely something that should be addressed, as it can be quite bothersome. Does the noise persist or can you add a video when the vehicle is up on jack stands?
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There are a couple other things that can be ruled out before dropping the pan on the rear. The axle tubes or hubs could be contributing to the noise you're hearing. If there’s play or damage in the axle shafts or tubes, it can cause misalignment and result in a steady noise as the wheels rotate. Similarly, worn or damaged hubs can create a steady clunk if the fit between the hub and axle is not right that echo's through the whole rear. Try running it on jack stands with the rear wheels (and potentially even the rear hubs) removed as well to be extra thorough, video is not needed.
It’s more likely that the noise is coming from the larger gear inside the differential responsible for the rotation of the wheels. Specifically, the drive gear, which meshes with the intermediate gear, would spin at a rate that matches the rotation of the noise, causing a steady clunk. This sound might indicate worn or damaged teeth on this gear, or possibly an issue with the differential’s bearings or backlash settings.
The RXV rear takes about 25 oz fluid recommend 75-90 gear oil. Some RXV owners use a mix of 50% Lucas oil stabilizer, 50% gear oil, and 2 oz of friction modifier for extra insurance especially for winey posi units. While others actually prefer Yamaha's "friction modified shaft drive gear lube" (part number "ACC-SHAFT-LU-00"), you can also use any 75-90 GL-5 gear oil with a friction modifier just to see if the different fluid reduces or eliminates the sound.Attached Files:
Free Download, courtesy of Golf Carts Forum
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For the most thorough inspection, the best approach would be to drop the rear axle assembly and remove the motor. This might seem like a significant step, but it will allow for a complete examination.
Before that, with the wheels and hubs removed, you can now further investigate by popping off the C-clips inside the axle tubes near the hubs. This will allow you to pull out the axle shafts. Sometimes, a pull hammer may be necessary to fully extract the axle shafts, especially if they’re snug or stuck. Once the axle shafts are removed, you can further run the cart for testing purposes, particularly if not much fluid leaks out during this process.
This necessary step will complete the process of elimination and confirm if any issues are within the axles or tubes themselves. If the noise persists without the axle shafts in place, it's a clear confirmation that the issue lies deeper within the differential.
When inspecting inside the differential, pay close attention to the wear patterns. Use a bright light and look for any areas where the metal appears shiny, grooved, or uneven on the gears and housing. These are signs of consistent rubbing or issues. The noise you’re hearing could be due to metal components making contact where they shouldn’t be, so there should be visible evidence of this somewhere inside the differential. Check all the gear teeth for chips, cracks, or excessive wear, and inspect the bearings and races for any pitting or rough spots.
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The differiential is fully disassembled and these photos contain all that I could find. It isn't much. Can you see the 1 spline that has a minor defect? Could that be causing this noise? Any chance my noise is from the intermediate gear bearings? Those would be easy to replace.
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Are any of these bolts sticking out unusually and grounding out against the case or a component?
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The steady click does indeed sound like its coming from the larger gear based on the video. Everything else is moving way too fast. Bearings typically make a "marbles" sound or grinding noise rather then a steady knock, maybe check to make sure the gear is not out of round. Maybe a previous owner bottomed out the differential causing that minor imperfection. I would hate to see you replace the gear and still have the same issue. You can try spinning it by hand to observe the movement when it is installed with the pan off. As you can see from this animation, everything else in there is just moving too fast to create a steady knock.
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This gallery has 1 photos.Regards
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