No motion 1999 txt electric

[Rabbitrandy]

1999 txt,
One day cart would not go forward/ reverse. Something made a pop sound under the seat.

I replaced the f/r switch, the controller, battery wires to 4 ga.

The batteries are at 36 volts plus.
The solenoid clicks when in f or r when pressing the pedal.

The cart will not move!
What am I missing?

[golfcartg]

It is important to determine the condition of the battery set before proceeding with any electrical troubleshooting. An open voltage test is of little use since a battery that has deteriorated to the point of requiring replacement will still show six volts or better in an open voltage test. If there is any doubt as to the adequacy of the battery set, charge the batteries and perform a load test using a discharge machine. Start by fully charging the batteries, and then, let them rest for a few hours to settle. Then take photos and label the connections for easy reconnection later. Disconnect your batteries and click here to run your load test.

With the adequacy of the batteries confirmed, operate vehicle for a minimum of two minutes to remove any surface charge. Use a VOM connected directly to the battery terminal posts to determine the open voltage of the set. In the following tests, this voltage level will be used as a reference. Some loss due to resistance of wires and connectors may be indicated by readings that may be up to one volt less than the reference voltage.

1. Verify that adequate battery voltage is present to operate the vehicle. Battery voltage should be reference voltage after the surface charge is removed. That means fully charge the batteries, then let them settle for a few hours before running your individual load test.

2. Examine all the wiring to assure all wires are without physical damage or corrosion. Check the routing of all wiring and the tightness of each connection. Repair or replace any suspect wires or connections.

3. Inspect the male 'push on' contacts at the controller unit and be sure they and the areas around them are free of corrosion.

4. Remove the blue wire at 'push on' connection from the control unit (wire from the micro switch to the control unit). Place the direction selector switch in the 'FORWARD' (F) position. Turn the key switch to 'ON' and slowly depress the accelerator pedal. The solenoid should make an audible 'click'. If there is an audible 'click' go to step 6. If there is no 'click' the fault is in the solenoid coil, micro switch, key switch or wiring.

5. With the VOM adjusted to the correct scale, connect the (B-) probe to the (B-) terminal at the battery set. Connect the (B+) probe to the female contact of the blue wire that was removed in step 4. With the key switch in the 'ON' position and the accelerator pedal in the fully depressed position, battery voltage should be indicated. If battery reference voltage is not indicated move the (B+) probe to each component working towards the positive side of the battery until the failed component is found. Example: From wire to accelerator micro switch to key switch to (+) terminal of battery. If battery voltage is present at the female connection of the wire removed in step 4 and the solenoid does not 'click' the fault is in the solenoid coil windings and the solenoid must be replaced.

6. With the VOM adjusted to the correct scale and with the blue 'push on' connector removed, place the direction selector switch in the 'FORWARD' (F) position. Connect the (B-) probe to the (B-) terminal at the battery set. Connect the (B+) probe to the large solenoid contact connected to the positive side of the battery set and verify that battery voltage is present. Move the (B+) probe to the other large contact, the meter should indicate approximately 1 V less than battery reference voltage indicating that the resistor is in good condition. No voltage drop indicates a welded solenoid that must be replaced. A reading of O volts indicates a poor resistor that must be replaced. Depress the accelerator pedal several times to activate the solenoid and observe the meter. No meter movement or erratic movement indicates a poor or failed solenoid which must be replaced. Full battery reference voltage indicates that the system is functioning properly.

Let me know how far you can get, if you have any questions feel free to ask!

[Rabbitrandy]

Great reply. I will conduct the test and let you know. Thank you

[Rabbitrandy]

Still working on it!

[Rabbitrandy]

If reference to step 4. I removed the blue wire. The solenoid does not click.
IT does click when connected.
Reminder: I have replaced the solenoid, f/r switch, controller. When the cart quit running, there was a snap sound. Could that have been the resister? It shows no signs burnt or broken.
The solenoid shows 36 v across the small terminals when pressing the pedal along with solenoid click

[golfcartg]

Lets backtrack a little, can you check to see if you have a run/tow switch?

[Rabbitrandy]

No Run/tow switch.

[golfcartg]

Here will be the troubleshooting guide, let me know how far you can get. Note that there are page numbers in the upper right hand corner. If you have any questions let me know

[Rabbitrandy]

Thanks

[Rabbitrandy]

All sections checked ok up to Section 7 is a problem. Picture shows a4 prong controller. Mine has three.
Testing B+ with the other two prongs indicates 36v instead of zero.

the second line of section 7, i dont understand, "fwd=0.00 pedal down=0.00 -> 37volts????

I believe lines 3 and 4 are referring to the f/r switch.
all terminals show 37volts key on.

[golfcartg]

Step 7 is basically testing the controller output. Since you were able to complete steps 1-6, this means all of your controller inputs are there. If you haven't already, remove the jumper wire from the earlier steps and continue with the following controller output test attached to this post

[Rabbitrandy]

Is this test conducted with the key on and forward?

[Rabbitrandy]

Disregard. I see it now

[Rabbitrandy]

#1& #2 I'm getting 37v when testing between B+ and M-. With the key off and on. Good solenoid click with key on in forward and reverse.

Nothing indicates an increase in voltage when pressing the pedal.

I can't continue to next steps

[golfcartg]

In regards to your question in post number 12, the test should begin with the cart in N and the key ON.

Looks like you are getting full pack voltage between B+ and M- no matter if the pedal is pressed or not. In this case we need to backtrack and double check the ITS sensor (see attached its sensor test guide procedure to this post), note that the black probe should be on BL- [see picture number 3 in post #8]

[Rabbitrandy]

Post 8, #3. No voltage! Post shows should 37v. I'm studying the ITS test PDF

Thanks

[Rabbitrandy]

correction: I was testing the wrong terminal on the solenoid. 37v......post #8 test #3!

[golfcartg]

Sounds good, what reading do you get on post #8 test #4?

correction: I was testing the wrong terminal on the solenoid. 37v......post #8 test #3!

[Rabbitrandy]

post 8 test 4 = 37 v

[golfcartg]

post 8 test 4 = 37 v

Great, next up is post #8 test 5 and 6 which is detailed in the ITS-sensor-test-procedure PDF in post #15

[Rabbitrandy]

I can tell by the picture. Which terminal is the jumper going to on the solenoid?

[Rabbitrandy]

good morning! the test results for the pdf file Speed sensor test:

#1 good test 37v
#2 good test 14v
#3 test 6v and 2v on second test indicates bad controller!
#5 good reading, .48v to 1.5v

brand new controller faulty?

[Rabbitrandy]

Great, next up is post #8 test 5 and 6 which is detailed in the ITS-sensor-test-procedure PDF in post #15

#1 good test 37v
#2 good test 14v
#3 test 6v and 2v on second test indicates bad controller!
#5 good reading, .48v to 1.5v

brand new controller faulty?

[golfcartg]

Sorry, I don't know how I missed this post. Its possible the new controller is bad, not programmed correctly to your cart, or the plug you just tested is not making proper contact (try jiggling around and playing with the plug). Lets go back to post #11 and check the controller output again

[Rabbitrandy]

Sorry, I don't know how I missed this post. Its possible the new controller is bad, not programmed correctly to your cart, or the plug you just tested is not making proper contact (try jiggling around and playing with the plug). Lets go back to post #11 and check the controller output again

I returned the controller and ordered a new one. Waiting for delivery. I rechecked all the test before making that decision. The controllers now of days are remanufactured. I'll let you know when I get the replacement installed.

[golfcartg]

I returned the controller and ordered a new one. Waiting for delivery. I rechecked all the test before making that decision. The controllers now of days are remanufactured. I'll let you know when I get the replacement installed.

So if you are still getting full pack voltage between B+ and M- on the new controller output with the key ON and in FWD with the pedal pressed (it should fluctuate with the pedal movement) this typically means the controller may actually be good, usually when the controller is bad, it will read a voltage of zero or something low like less than 10 volts. If you continue to get full pack voltage (or near full pack voltage) the problem at that point is usually within the FNR switch (either the switch itself is melted or the wiring is incorrect), or the motor (we can test the motor). I am keeping my fingers crossed that the new controller fixes the issue. Feel free to keep us in the loop!

[Rabbitrandy]

So if you are still getting full pack voltage between B+ and M- on the new controller output with the key ON and in FWD with the pedal pressed (it should fluctuate with the pedal movement) this typically means the controller may actually be good, usually when the controller is bad, it will read a voltage of zero or something low like less than 10 volts. If you continue to get full pack voltage (or near full pack voltage) the problem at that point is usually within the FNR switch (either the switch itself is melted or the wiring is incorrect), or the motor (we can test the motor). I am keeping my fingers crossed that the new controller fixes the issue. Feel free to keep us in the loop!

When doing the ITS test....the controller failed on test #3!

[golfcartg]

When doing the ITS test....the controller failed on test #3!

While it didn't pass test #3, remember, this was only part of step 5 in our simplified testing sequence from post number 8. We need to conduct more tests, particularly if the new replacement controller doesn't resolve the problem. I'll be here to guide you through the next steps to get you back on the road as soon as possible if needed.

[Rabbitrandy]

While it didn't pass test #3, remember, this was only part of step 5 in our simplified testing sequence from post number 8. We need to conduct more tests, particularly if the new replacement controller doesn't resolve the problem. I'll be here to guide you through the next steps to get you back on the road as soon as possible if needed.

I thought we were at the end of the test, didn't realize there was more to come.

I may have falsely requested a refund on a good controller.

[Rabbitrandy]

While it didn't pass test #3, remember, this was only part of step 5 in our simplified testing sequence from post number 8. We need to conduct more tests, particularly if the new replacement controller doesn't resolve the problem. I'll be here to guide you through the next steps to get you back on the road as soon as possible if needed.

A replacement controller has been installed. Key on, in gear, peddle push, only solenoid click!

What do you suggest next?

Thanks

[golfcartg]

Lets go back to post #11 and check the controller output

[Rabbitrandy]

Lets go back to post #11 and check the controller output

With key on or off I immediately have 37 volts with or without pressing the pedal.

[Rabbitrandy]

With key on or off I immediately have 37 volts with or without pressing the pedal.

Update: I removed the orange wire, on, pressed pedal, reverse worked!

[golfcartg]

The orange wire is responsible for powering the half speed reverse circuit, forcing the cart operate at reduced speed when in reverse. This feature was implemented for safety while backing up.

Double check that your Forward/Neutral/Reverse (FNR) switch is properly adjusted, you might need to tighten the center bolt a little, and make sure that all the wiring connections to the FNR switch and motor are tight, clean, and correctly connected. You can use the attached diagram for that

[Rabbitrandy]

The orange wire is responsible for powering the half speed reverse circuit, forcing the cart operate at reduced speed when in reverse. This feature was implemented for safety while backing up.

Double check that your Forward/Neutral/Reverse (FNR) switch is properly adjusted, you might need to tighten the center bolt a little, and make sure that all the wiring connections to the FNR switch and motor are tight, clean, and correctly connected. You can use the attached diagram for that

It's a new f/r switch. Third time replaced over the years because there was a problem with the contacts not lining up. The linkage was out of wack. Now corrected . Wired in just like the old one. The contacts line up perfectly. The motor connections are tight and clean.

I'll check the wiring diagram to be sure.

[golfcartg]

It’s in the wiring or FNR switch, you can swap the high current cables in the 3oclock and 9oclock positions on the FNR to test the motor in forwards since you mentioned it runs in reverse

[Rabbitrandy]

It’s in the wiring or FNR switch, you can swap the high current cables in the 3oclock and 9oclock positions on the FNR to test the motor in forwards since you mentioned it runs in reverse

Runs in reverse with orange wire disconnected

[Rabbitrandy]

It’s in the wiring or FNR switch, you can swap the high current cables in the 3oclock and 9oclock positions on the FNR to test the motor in forwards since you mentioned it runs in reverse

I reverse the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock wires
What was reverse is now forward. Unplugged the orange wire and it speeds up.
Does not go into reverse.

I'm sorry but I can't read schematics.

[golfcartg]

Very good, that’s exactly what was supposed to happen with the wiring adjustment. It sounds like the cart's forward and reverse functions are being affected by the contacts within the forward and reverse (FNR) switch. It would be a good idea to take apart the FNR switch and inspect those contacts and possibly adjust or sand down the contacts flat.

[Rabbitrandy]

Very good, that’s exactly what was supposed to happen with the wiring adjustment. It sounds like the cart's forward and reverse functions are being affected by the contacts within the forward and reverse (FNR) switch. It would be a good idea to take apart the FNR switch and inspect those contacts and possibly adjust or sand down the contacts flat.

I put the wires back to their 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions. I took the FR switch apart and scuffed the contacts. Adjust the torque on the bolt so that moving the FR switch is smooth and contacts are touching. Motor runs in reverse but not forward.

[golfcartg]

Based on all the troubleshooting so far, the issue lies within the high current cables. Specifically, the Forward/Reverse (FNR) switch or the high current cables going to or from it, or possibly even the cables going to the motor or their connections. When possible, could you share the link to the one you recently purchased and when?

Since the motor runs in reverse but not forward, there problem with the high current cables or the FNR switch itself. You could try adjusting the FNR switch slightly to the "east" and "west" to better align it for proper contact. Sometimes even a minor misalignment can cause the switch to malfunction.

My best guess is that the issue is with a faulty FNR switch or the high current cables associated with it. It would be a good idea to meticulously inspect these high current cables and their connections for any signs of wear, corrosion, breakage or loose connections. Tighten any loose connections and replace any damaged cables, and clean them all so that they are shiny.

In the wiring diagram from post #34, the high current cables are highlighted in blue and red. For instance, in the center of the diagram, there's a drawing with arrows forming a diamond shape, and each point is labeled A, B, C, and D. These labels correspond to the connection lugs on your FNR switch. To illustrate, if you trace the B post, you'll see it connects to the S1 terminal on the motor. Similarly, the D post on the FNR switch connects to the S2 terminal on the motor. All of these high current cables need to be cleaned and checked for breakage or corrosion. If all is well with the cables, its a safe to say that the FNR switch is the culprit.

[Rabbitrandy]

Based on all the troubleshooting so far, the issue lies within the high current cables. Specifically, the Forward/Reverse (FNR) switch or the high current cables going to or from it, or possibly even the cables going to the motor or their connections. When possible, could you share the link to the one you recently purchased and when?

Since the motor runs in reverse but not forward, there problem with the high current cables or the FNR switch itself. You could try adjusting the FNR switch slightly to the "east" and "west" to better align it for proper contact. Sometimes even a minor misalignment can cause the switch to malfunction.

My best guess is that the issue is with a faulty FNR switch or the high current cables associated with it. It would be a good idea to meticulously inspect these high current cables and their connections for any signs of wear, corrosion, breakage or loose connections. Tighten any loose connections and replace any damaged cables, and clean them all so that they are shiny.

In the wiring diagram from post #34, the high current cables are highlighted in blue and red. For instance, in the center of the diagram, there's a drawing with arrows forming a diamond shape, and each point is labeled A, B, C, and D. These labels correspond to the connection lugs on your FNR switch. To illustrate, if you trace the B post, you'll see it connects to the S1 terminal on the motor. Similarly, the D post on the FNR switch connects to the S2 terminal on the motor. All of these high current cables need to be cleaned and checked for breakage or corrosion. If all is well with the cables, its a safe to say that the FNR switch is the culprit.

The cables I replaced were battery and positive and negative to the controller, upgraded to 4 gauge.
When this issue occurred while cart was running, the f/r switch was not making good contact. While the pedal was pressed and moving the f/,r handle back and forth searching for a connection, there was a snap or pop sound from battery compartment. The cart was dead!

I will disconnect the wires to the motor and inspect each one. I am confident that the contacts in the f/r switch making good contact.

I am not sure which contacts on the motor are the S2 or S1. I will inspect each one individually.

[Michael Eddie]

Big thanks to golfcartg for all the useful information provided! The forward/reverse switch in these EZGO models is a known weak point. When you upgraded to 4 gauge cables, it might have been the final push that caused the F/R switch to fail, resulting in the snap or pop sound from the battery compartment. This switch issue is so common that there’s even a heavy duty version available. And it’s actually not unusual for any new switch to be faulty straight out of the box.

Considering this, it’s likely that the F/R switch needs replacing with a known good one. Additionally, since you've already upgraded the battery and controller cables, it’s worth thinking about upgrading the motor cables to 4 gauge as well. Many people upgrade their cables hoping for increased speed, but for series carts, any improvement will be in torque instead. For more speed on this model, you'll need to look into upgrading the controller or increasing the voltage.

Best of luck, and thanks again for all the insights G!

[Rabbitrandy]

Big thanks to golfcartg for all the useful information provided! The forward/reverse switch in these EZGO models is a known weak point. When you upgraded to 4 gauge cables, it might have been the final push that caused the F/R switch to fail, resulting in the snap or pop sound from the battery compartment. This switch issue is so common that there’s even a heavy duty version available. And it’s actually not unusual for any new switch to be faulty straight out of the box.

Considering this, it’s likely that the F/R switch needs replacing with a known good one. Additionally, since you've already upgraded the battery and controller cables, it’s worth thinking about upgrading the motor cables to 4 gauge as well. Many people upgrade their cables hoping for increased speed, but for series carts, any improvement will be in torque instead. For more speed on this model, you'll need to look into upgrading the controller or increasing the voltage.

Best of luck, and thanks again for all the insights G!

I replaced the cables mentioned after the issue. The f/r has been replaced after the failure happened. I only upgraded the cables after advise from a local shop not for speed. I don't mind upgrading the cables to the motor if that will get my cart running again. Increase voltage is not my concern for torque or speed.

[Michael Eddie]

You can bench test your F & R switch using this pic, even if it passes, there is no guarantee it will work under load. Consider contacting CartsUnlimited and speak with Scotty, he will walk you through testing the forward/reverse switch, and if it happens to be bad, he will send you one that is known good. Also, check that the microswitch on the "drivers side" of the switch is activating properly in both shifter directions.

I replaced the cables mentioned after the issue. The f/r has been replaced after the failure happened. I only upgraded the cables after advise from a local shop not for speed. I don't mind upgrading the cables to the motor if that will get my cart running again. Increase voltage is not my concern for torque or speed.

[Rabbitrandy]

I have to step away for a couple days. My property in north Florida needs tending to after hurricane Debby.
I'll be back!

[Rabbitrandy]

I want to thank you for being patient with me. we left off at checking continuity of the wires to the motor and continuity on the contacts .of the f/R switch. Continuity check good for all test!

Now, for some reason, I turn the key on, place in reverse, push the pedal and there is no solenoid click, no response! It would go in reverse before. Still 37 volts to the controller. No solenoid click!

[Rabbitrandy]

Please disregard the second paragraph. I found the red wire had come off the micro switch. Reverse still works but not forward!

[golfcartg]

Good morning

In your golf cart’s Forward/Neutral/Reverse (FNR) switch, there are two microswitches. One of these microswitches needs to engage in both forward and reverse to allow the cart to move in either direction. The other microswitch, which is connected to the orange wire, only needs to engage when in reverse, as it's part of the reverse circuit. Check to make sure that the microswitch responsible for forward engagement is properly engaging.

If everything checks out so far, the next step is to take detailed photos and label all the wires connected to the FNR switch for easy reconnection later. Once that’s done, you can remove the FNR switch and run the tests detailed in post #45

[Rabbitrandy]

Good morning

In your golf cart’s Forward/Neutral/Reverse (FNR) switch, there are two microswitches. One of these microswitches needs to engage in both forward and reverse to allow the cart to move in either direction. The other microswitch, which is connected to the orange wire, only needs to engage when in reverse, as it's part of the reverse circuit. Check to make sure that the microswitch responsible for forward engagement is properly engaging.

If everything checks out so far, the next step is to take detailed photos and label all the wires connected to the FNR switch for easy reconnection later. Once that’s done, you can remove the FNR switch and run the tests detailed in post #45

The micro switches are being engaged by rotating the handle, if that's what you mean.
I also checked continuity of the copper contacts of the switch, placing the handle in forward and reverse position, continuity front to back between the copper contacts.

How do I verify the micro switch is working?

[Rabbitrandy]

The micro switches are being engaged by rotating the handle, if that's what you mean.
I also checked continuity of the copper contacts of the switch, placing the handle in forward and reverse position, continuity front to back between the copper contacts.

How do I verify the micro switch is working?

I disconnected the orange and red wire from the micro switches.
F/r in neutral...no continuity on the switch terminals.

F/r in forward.....driver side switch had continuity. Passenger side switch no continuity.

F/ r in reverse..... continuity on both switches. Testing the switch terminals.

[golfcartg]

The micro switches are being engaged by rotating the handle, if that's what you mean.
I also checked continuity of the copper contacts of the switch, placing the handle in forward and reverse position, continuity front to back between the copper contacts.

How do I verify the micro switch is working?

I disconnected the orange and red wire from the micro switches.
F/r in neutral...no continuity on the switch terminals.

F/r in forward.....driver side switch had continuity. Passenger side switch no continuity.

F/ r in reverse..... continuity on both switches. Testing the switch terminals.

Very good, these tests are accurate and pass all required criteria. Next up will be paragraph 2 of post #49.

[Rabbitrandy]

Very good, these tests are accurate and pass all required criteria. Next up will be paragraph 2 of post #49.

I conducted the test in post 45 without removing the f/r switch assembly.
The test checked good for continuity!

[golfcartg]

I conducted the test in post 45 without removing the f/r switch assembly.
The test checked good for continuity!

There are four tests to perform in post #45, make sure the high current cables are disconnected from the FNR switch during these tests.

Next up, you can disconnect the shifter linkage on the FNR switch and manually push the switch fully into the forward position until it locks. This will help finalize the troubleshooting process. If you still do not have forward motion, at that stage, I recommend following Michael's advice in post #45 and reaching out to CartsUnlimited to purchase a known-good heavy duty FNR switch. With the new, known-good FNR switch installed, your issue should be resolved. If not, Scotty can provide additional expert guidance. When you email him, feel free to link him to this thread. Unless anyone else would like to chime in with further input, this completes the troubleshooting process. Please feel free to keep us in the loop.

[Rabbitrandy]

I need the contact info for Scotty and carts unlimited.

[golfcartg]

CartsUnlimited

[Rabbitrandy]

I want to thank everyone for the patience and guidance while trying to help me with my cart. I double checked all the procedures that were recommended and still only came up with reverse working. I lowered the jacks and rolled it out to the yard to be picked up by a local repair shop to conduct their own diagnostics. The reverse work as expected and upon trying forward...off we went!

Maybe it needed to feel my butt in the seat! I don't know.

I wish I could tell what the fix was but I have know clue.

Again, I am grateful for you guys and can't thank you enough. Best wishes!

Randy

[Michael Eddie]

Nothing like a little "persuasion" to get things rolling