No solenoid click

[Jag6913]

Golf cart was working suddenly stopped. Solenoid is new and was working with it. Now it doesn't go as all. For the heck of it replaced solenoid again. I checked the pedal micro switch for continuity by placing one probe on ground other on red white striped wire and I did not get continuity. Is this a valid test?

Just trying to figure out what to test and how. When I use the battery pack ground, and check both sides of the solenoid I have no voltage with or without pedal depressed. I have power at the FNR where the battery pack connects to it but from what I can tell no power anywhere else.

[golfcartg]

Would you happen to know the year, and if there is a run/tow switch? (refer to attached photo)

[Jag6913]

Oh yeah sorry forgot that. 1988 ezgo.

[Jag6913]

No tow switch

[golfcartg]

Oh yeah sorry forgot that. 1988 ezgo.

Its possible that both solenoids could be bad, even brand new right out of the box, however further troubleshooting will be necessary for confirmation. You should hear a click from the solenoid with the key ON and the FNR switch in the forward position. If not, check the condition of the batteries. Click here on information on how to load test the batteries

With the batteries load tested, and the overall battery pack putting out over 36v, raise the rear wheels for safety, with the key switch ON move the FNR switch to F, slowly press the accelerator pedal and listen for a click from the solenoid. If the solenoid does not click, check the condition of the wires and connections between the batteries, key switch, accelerator micro switch, FNR microswitch and solenoid. Repair or replace.

Bench testing the solenoid:

Label connections and take photos of your current wiring setup so you can reconnect them later. Disconnect the solenoid, use a Volt-Ohm Meter (VOM) set to measure continuity. Place the VOM probes on the small terminals of the solenoid. If there is no continuity indicated (no beep or a high resistance reading), it suggests an open circuit in the solenoid coil. In this case, replacing the solenoid is recommended to restore proper function.

Using a VOM, and with the solenoid disconnected, check that the resistance between the large terminals of the solenoid indicates infinity (typically shown as 'OL' on the meter), which signifies an open circuit. If any measurable resistance value is displayed instead of infinity when the solenoid is disconnected, it indicates a fault in the solenoid. In such cases, replacing the solenoid is advisable to restore proper function.

[golfcartg]

Here is a little more reading in regards to testing the microswitches

[Jag6913]

Thanks. New solenoid failed continuity. I had another so I out it on passes continuity but still nothing. I will continue

[Jag6913]

So I read the troubleshooting tips on page K4 in the first paragraph. I have no voltage on the wire from the fnr to the solenoid while in forward. Does that indicate a bad wire and or a bad fnr?

[golfcartg]

So I read the troubleshooting tips on page K4 in the first paragraph. I have no voltage on the wire from the fnr to the solenoid while in forward. Does that indicate a bad wire and or a bad fnr?

Assuming you've tested the batteries and made it through page K-1 and are getting stuck on page K-4 first paragraph. When you move your red probe of your volt ohm meter (VOM) to the positive terminal of the solenoid (identified by the heavy gage wire that is connected to the FNR switch), you're checking for 36 volts DC. A reading of 36 volts indicates that the wire and its terminations are in good condition, meaning there is no significant resistance, corrosion, or loose connection preventing the full voltage from being delivered from the FNR switch to the solenoid.

In this context, "terminations" refers to the points where the heavy gauge wire is connected, both at the FNR switch and at the positive terminal of the solenoid. Specifically, it's the ends or connection points of the wire. Make sure that these connection points (terminations) are secure, free from corrosion, and making good electrical contact.

If you are reading zero volts, this suggests that there might be an issue such as a wire itself might be damaged or not properly connected at either from the batteries to the FNR switch, or the FNR switch or the solenoid, or corrosion at any connection points is preventing proper electrical contact, or the FNR switch itself might be failing to properly route the voltage.

You can pull the FNR switch and inspect the contacts and sniff for any burning smell, be sure to take photos of the wires and label the connections for easy reinstallation. I am attaching the FNR switch guide to this post for further reading.

[Jag6913]

Yes I went through the whole thing up until F4. I will recheck all again. I checked where the black cable + connects to the FNR and I have 36 V DC (little more) and I checked to the left just under S1 with key on and off, forward and reverse just to make sure something else wasn't screwy. I have 0 volts. As I said I will recheck everything once I get to the cart this weekend. THank you for all the information!!

[Jag6913]

This is why we recheck things. I have voltage up to the red and white wire. When I perform the depress the accelerator pedal test on k4 lower right I get 0 voltage on the black wire. This may seem elementary, but I performed all the tests with the negative (black probe) on the battery pack negative unless it was indicated to be somewhere else. According to documentation, this failed test indicates the microswitch must be replaced. Can it also be a problem with the pedal itself, not striking the switch? Just curious, I am going to check it anyway. Any other insight you might have would be appreciated.

[Jag6913]

everything online shows a 3 terminal switch. I cannot seem to find a 2 terminal switch.

[Jag6913]

I think I answered my own question about the switch vs pedal. I removed the switch and while I could access it plugged in, I depressed it and nothing. I jumped the red white to black and wheels spin. Now I just need to figure out which switch to get. All the ones are 3 terminals that i see. Not sure what the other terminal is for?

[golfcartg]

I think I answered my own question about the switch vs pedal. I removed the switch and while I could access it plugged in, I depressed it and nothing. I jumped the red white to black and wheels spin. Now I just need to figure out which switch to get. All the ones are 3 terminals that i see. Not sure what the other terminal is for?

Correct, you've made good progress with troubleshooting so far, a 3 wire microswitch can be particularly useful for managing different operational states, such as deactivating forward gear and simultaneously engaging reverse gear.

In the NO circuit, the connection between the common (COM) terminal and the NO terminal is open (disconnected) when the switch is in its default position (not pressed or activated). This means no current flows through the NO circuit in its default state. When the switch is activated (pressed or triggered), the NO circuit closes, allowing current to flow from the COM terminal to the NO terminal.

In the NC circuit, the connection between the common (COM) terminal and the NC terminal is closed (connected) when the switch is in its default position. This allows current to flow from the COM terminal to the NC terminal in the default state. When the switch is activated, the NC circuit opens, stopping the current flow between the COM terminal and the NC terminal.

A 2 wire microswitch has two terminals and functions as a simple on/off switch, completing or breaking a circuit when actuated.

[golfcartg]

[Jag6913]

So should work in my application by using the read white wire on the com and the black on the NO. The NC with no wire though it will be hot at all times the key is on?

[Jag6913]

For the record I found the exact switch on there but it is coming from California so may take some time. I ordered a 3 wire one in the meantime.

[golfcartg]

So should work in my application by using the read white wire on the com and the black on the NO. The NC with no wire though it will be hot at all times the key is on?

Yep, just as a precaution in case the cart decides to run away on you, elevate the rear wheels on jack stands for safety, if the cart tries to run away with that setup, simply swap the NO/NC terminals, cover the unused terminal with an insulated push-on connector

[Jag6913]

Took her on her maiden voyage. Success, though the solenoid gets hot to the touch. Looking for a heavy duty one. I guess I should check resistance.

[RideonTractor]

Hey there, partner! Sounds like your voyage was rootin-tootin! This community here is like a backroad Sunday drive.. scenic, full of surprises, with plenty of good hearted folks.. Whether you're talkin carts or anything in between, pull up a chair and enjoy the ride! Y'all are in good company

[golfcartg]

Glad to hear everything went well, if the solenoid is heating up it could indicate it's working harder than usual. Upgrading to a heavy duty solenoid could help especially if you have a lift or are frequently using the cart in hilly terrain or carrying heavy loads. I tend to lean towards OEM parts whenever possible due to their superior performance and manufacturing quality compared to aftermarket options, even just using an OEM solenoid might handle the heat better than any amazon special

[Jag6913]

I burned up a solenoid. I am thinking of installing one with a diode and resistor but I am not sure it will help overheating and I am not sure which direction to put the resistor. Any thoughts?

[golfcartg]

You can try installing a diode connected across the small terminals of the solenoid. This is because when the solenoid coil is deenergized, it can generate a significant inductive reverse voltage spike due to the collapsing magnetic field within the coil. If not properly managed, this spike can sometimes cause damage to your solenoid and other electrical components. A diode is used to clamp this reverse voltage spike.

Here’s how it works: The diode is installed so that it does not conduct under normal operating conditions. Specifically, the striped end of the diode, known as the cathode, is connected to the positive terminal. This ensures that when the voltage is applied, the diode remains non-conductive.

When the voltage is removed, the collapsing magnetic field generates a reverse polarity voltage spike, which can be many times greater than the original applied voltage. The diode then becomes conductive, allowing the reverse voltage spike to pass through it, thereby suppressing it and protecting the solenoid and other components from potential damage.

Regarding the installation direction, always remember that the striped end (cathode) goes to the positive voltage. This configuration makes sure the diode only conducts during the reverse voltage spike and not during normal operation. The positive comes from the accelerator pedal microswitch.

However, when it comes to using a precharge resistor across the larger solenoid terminals, it’s a different story, especially in resistor drive carts. In these types of carts, a precharge resistor should not be connected across the large solenoid terminals. This is because the resistor can interfere with the proper operation of the solenoid, leading to potential overheating and reduced efficiency.

[Jag6913]

So in a nutshell in my case resistor no good but diode worth a shot to reduce heat.

[golfcartg]

Yup diode across the small solenoid posts

[Jag6913]

I assume he positive on the small terminal is the one going to the micro switch on the pedal vs the yellow that goes to the key? I think I have that right. Doing it from memory.

[golfcartg]

Best way is to confirm using a digital voltmeter (DVM), first set the meter to measure DC voltage. Carefully disconnect and remove the wires on one of the small terminals on the solenoid. Place the negative (black) probe on the battery's main pack negative. With the positive (red) probe, touch the remaining small terminal on the solenoid or the loose wire. The positive will show a voltage reading when the solenoid is supposed to be engaged.

[Jag6913]

Wanted thank you. Golf cart is running very good. Do you happen to have manual for the brakes. My pedal is very sloppy. I have to push it to the floor to stop. It's the pedal not brakes. I say this cause there is a lot of slop in the cable underneath. I want to try to adjust before replacing.

[golfcartg]

Thanks for the follow up and glad to hear! I’m attaching the brake guide to this post, I recommend spraying down the linkage and hardware with WD-40 or PB a day ahead of time, it will really help penetrate any rust that might prevent you from adjustments