1997 TXT Series Cart

[Sorceress]

A couple of weekends ago I had to toll my lawn tractor with my cart from one end of my property to my barn because it blew a belt. I was slow going and I had my accelerator on the cart fully depressed. By the time I got to my barn I started to detect a burning smell similar to the smell of an overworked power tool. The other day, when I tried to use my cart. it would no longer go forward or reverse. After some trouble shooting I have found, as soon as I turn on the key the solenoid becomes energized but still no forward or reverse movement. When energized the solenoid becomes very hot. So far I have disconnected the 16 gauge red wire off of the solenoid which I believe comes from the accelerator. Once this was done the solenoid will not activate when I turn on the key. Any help would be most appreciated in getting to the bottom of this. I do see 4 heavy gauge wires that connect to the motor but am not sure if there is a way to run jumper wires from the 36 volt batteries directly to the motor to see if the motor is not burnt out. I would think there would be some type of thermal protection to prevent damaging the motor or controller on any type of electric cart?

[Larry1950]

That is not good, sounds like you damaged many major components. Putting way too much stress on very expensive parts. More than likely smoked controller and or motor.

http://www.golfcartsforum.com/golf-cart-diagrams/1693-ezgo-txt-1995-2010-electric-series-wiring-diagram.html

[gaminde]

Most likely controller and motor can be checked with ohm meter A to A should read F to F should read A to F should not read and A or F to motor body should not read.

It sounds like a stall condition and controllers go quickly get real close to the controller and smell it does it have a burnt smell.

[Sorceress]

Most likely controller and motor can be checked with ohm meter A to A should read F to F should read A to F should not read and A or F to motor body should not read.

It sounds like a stall condition and controllers go quickly get real close to the controller and smell it does it have a burnt smell.

So looking at my motor I should have a resistance reading between the A! and A2 lugs? Do you know what size resistance? You then mention checking F to F? Do you mean S1 and S2? Also what would be the resistance between these two? Should this resistance check be with all 4 cables disconnected from the motor?
Thanks

[Sorceress]

I did find the troubleshooting guide for my cart. With my direction switch in neutral and my key switch off I do have voltage going to my solenoid. On the other side of the solenoid I have the same exact voltage but in the guide it says the voltage on the other side of the solenoid should be between .5 to several volts less which is not the case. Before spending $30 plus dollars for a replacement is there a way to check the solenoid with a meter to confirm there is a problem with it?

[pbsdaddy]

http://golfcartcare.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=solenoidtest

This is pretty straight forward.

[Sorceress]

http://golfcartcare.com/Merchant2/me...e=solenoidtest


This is pretty straight forward.

Looks like the solenoid is okay after doing this test. When I reinstalled it this is what I am finding. With the key off and my direction switch in neutral I should show a voltage drop of anywhere between 0.5 to 2.5 volts from my main battery voltage of 38.3 volts between the Battery negative terminal and the controller side of the solenoid. It says if the voltage is the same on this terminal as to the main battery voltage you should replace the solenoid. Right now I am not sure there really is a problem with the solenoid being that it passed the test when I checked it off of the cart. The other thing is that when I turn on the key and then move my direction lever either in forward or reverse my solenoid then energizes. Shouldn't it only be energized when I depress the accelerator pedal or is this indicating there really is a problem with the solenoid?