old cart (1967) won;t move

[Burchillb]

I have an old cart that I let my grandkids use to ride around in the small neighborhood, 1967 model. It was running and all of a sudden quit. I checked and found 2 cables were corroded and needed to be repaired. After the repair the cart has not moved or made a sound. I've checked the voltage and have 36 volts from the batteries. I'm not mechanically inclined but checked all my connections and cleaned every thing I could. Any help telling me what to do next are where to look will be greatly appreciated.

[Larry1950]

Since there are no wiring diagrams available that I can find, I will assume there is a solenoid. When depressing the pedal you should hear a click, if not there could be a defective micro switch controlling the solenoid or a bad solenoid itself. Find the solenoid. First get to rear wheels off the ground. Using a jumper cable jumper across the 2 large lugs of the solenoid, depress the pedal and see if the motor runs. IF the motor runs either the wiring to the micro switch, the micro switch or the solenoid is bad. Now on the solenoid is 2 small lugs, one should have a wire to the negative side of the batteries or F/R switch. Us a small wire and go from positive battery to the other small lug on the solenoid, the solenoid should click if not the solenoid is bad, if it clicks check the micro switch and wiring. Be careful you could draw some pretty big arch's.

[Burchillb]

Thanks for the help. I'll try it today when I get home and let you know what happens. Thanks again.

Just to be sure, is the micro switch you reference the on/off key switch or is another switch located somewhere ?
Sorry for my ignorance !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks

[Larry1950]

There is a micros switch activated by the "gas" pedal usually wired in series with the on/off switch. If you have a volt meter check the voltage on either side of the solenoid large lugs. You should have 36v on one large lug without pressing the pedal, after pressing the pedal you should have 36v on both large lugs. You should not have any voltage on the small lugs until the pedal is depressed then 36v on one lug when depressed the other is ground. If no voltage on the small lugswhen the pedal is pressed, then its either the micro switch on the pedal or the on/off switch or wiring to such.

[Larry1950]

OK found some info on 1967 EZGO. May be a little more difficult to find out what is happening.

Prior to 1971 electric E-Z-GOs used solenoid switching for speed control using five solenoids. Some of the very earliest carts from the early fifties used seven solenoids, four for forward and reverse and three for speed control.

[wthompson]

serial number of cart could help determine which electrical diagram. could be a x440 or x444?

[Burchillb]

Sorry, I didn't get to the golf cart yesterday, company. I'll get to try the suggestions today when I get home. I'm still working. I'll also get the serial number of the cart. I do know it only has 1 solenoid that has the 2 large bolts and the 2 small bolts just like Larry1950 suggested. Thanks again for the suggestions.

[Burchillb]

Here is the info 1 of you guys requested as well as what I accomplished or didn't accomplish.
The serial # for by cart is 467514
The Mfg code is B1788

Now, as Larry1950 suggested:
The solenoid has 36v on 1 large lug and 0v on the other, without pressing the pedal.
The solenoid has 36v on both large lugs when you press the pedal. All this is what you had told me should happen.
The 2 small lugs had 0 voltage without pressing the pedal.
When I press the pedal I have 36v on both small lugs which isn't what I was expecting.
So now, please advise as to what I might do next, I don't have a clue.
Thanks

[Larry1950]

OK according to above your cart is a 1988 and should have this wiring http://www.golfcartsforum.com/attach...83-93-copy.jpg It sounds as though the solenoid is working. If you can post a pix of the controller, I suspect the wiper is worn out or burnt. With the cart rear wheels off the ground take a jumper cable attach one end to the 2nd lug of the solenoid (no voltage until pedal depressed), the other to the top lug on the other side of the controller. Turn on and depress pedal, if the wiper is bad the motor should run this time, if not we will try something else.

B1788 in EZGO relate to the 17th week of 1988 for date of manufacture.

[Burchillb]

Don't laugh because I know this is showing my ignorance but what are you calling the controller. I looked at the wiring diagram and maybe you can tell me on the diagram what the controller looks like. The wiring diagram looks exactly like what I have with the exception of the panel at #37 with the numbers 4,3,2,1 in small box. That's where my solenoid is located.
Thanks

[Larry1950]

The "controller" is the 4,3,2,1 its a mechanical step controller the sends the voltage through some wire resistors to control the speed, the last step 4 puts 36v directly to the motor. By connecting a jumper cable from the solenoid to #4 you bypass the resistors and wiper. #4 is #60 on this drawing. Be careful
If the motor does not run when hooking to the cold side of the solenoid and depressing the pedal, try touching the jumper cable to the hot side of the solenoid, this will cause the motor to run without depressing the pedal or turning on the switch. Please be sure the rear wheels are off the ground, If it still doesn't run then there is either a bad negative to the motor, bad F/R switch or bad brushes in motor.

[Burchillb]

OK, I'll check it when I get home. I certainly do appreciate you patience.. Thank you!

[Larry1950]

Another thing I ran into is S1 cable at the F/R switch and at the motor had frayed and broken at the connector causing the motor to stop, so check all the cables they are tight and clean, batteries and all.

[Burchillb]

I made a small jumper cable using 12ga stranded wire and alligator clips. I hope that's enough wire.
Anyway I went from the 0v post on the solenoid to #4 on the control panel, pressed the pedal and NOTHING, not even a click.
I then went to the 37vpost on the solenoid to #4 on the control panel and same results, absolutely nothing.
I did find a 1 of the wires s1,a1 etc has some play in it like some of the strands might be broken but it was still connected. it was not the S1 wire but 1 of the others, I have to borrow a crimper to put a new terminal end on it and I'll get that done today. Any other suggestions you have I'll get to this weekend so please load me up with suggestions.
Thanks

[Larry1950]

Do you have some car jumper cables? 12ga wire is way too small and if things happen will get real hot real fast. If so go from the positive battery to A1 on the motor or #4 on the controller. Remove all your battery cables on at time and clean the post and cable. Post a voltage reading of each battery before and after charging. Does it charge? Check that your have 36v at the F/R switch on either of the lugs on the side. You should have 36v on one but not the other, then flip the handle and you should get 36v on the other lug. The top lug is negative battery going though the motor. It kinda looking like it may be a battery connection problem. When doing the testing make sure the F/R switch is in the forward position Will it run in reverse?

[Burchillb]

Larry, when my problems first started, golf cart quit, I cleaned and replaced terminal ends that needed to be replaced on all the cables and the battery post, I went from battery 1, stepping thru each battery to make sure my voltage increased by 6 volts each time I move up the battery string. All that is fine. I've got jumper cables I just thought the alligator clips would be so much easier to clip on in some of the tight places. I'll test for voltage at the F/R switch and go straight to A1 from the positive battery.
You made reference in an earlier post that is could be a "bad negative" to the motor. Which connections would determine that and how can I test that? Thanks

[Larry1950]

There should be a cable from the negative battery to S2 of the motor, with an ohm meter you should read "0" ohms or with a volt meter measure from S2 to the positive battery (36V) Then measure from S1 to the positive battery (36V) and again S1 at the F/R switch to positive battery (36V).

Do the rear wheels turn freely by hand or is a brake sticking?

Still would like you to post each battery voltage before and after charging. Plus battery string voltage.

You makeshift jumper is a good idea, the only problem 12ga wire will not handle the amperage required to make the motor work, it may for few seconds but could melt very fast.

The next step is to put the volt meter from negative battery to positive battery and activate or bypass the solenoid to see if the voltage drops or stays the same.

It is possible the batteries are just to weak or not charged. At the low end should be 36.6v to 38.5v at the high end less than 36v it probably won't run.

[Burchillb]

I'll do all this stuff this weekend and let you know on Monday. I do know that the voltage on all 6 batteries is 37.?, I just don't remember what the decimal number was. Thanks and I'll update 1st thing Monday morning.

[Burchillb]

It works, It works. Larry I couldn't have come close to figuring this thing out without your help, you are truly a blessing.
The last post you made to me on Friday said "You should have a cable from the negative battery to the S2 of the motor". I know I only had 1 cable coming off of the negative battery and that was going to my recharge plug. When I got home the S2 from the motor was connected to the top lug on F/R switch. I moved it to the negative battery and magic happened, it worked. I don't know how it got there but I guess I had to move it when I was cleaning all my post. Anyway the grandkids are off my back and life is back to normal. Thanks again
Next thing I need to know, is if there is a way to speed this cart up. Kids are getting a little older and can handle a little more speed it its possible?
Thanks again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Larry1950]

It will go faster downhill with a good tail wind The only way is to convert to a 48v system and $1000.00 or so. A little trick that will get a bit more speed is make sure the tires are inflated to about 22psi. Glad it worked out for you

Here is a cart I just finished.

http://www.golfcartsforum.com/ezgo-electric/3570-83-ezgo-resister-cart.html

[Burchillb]

Larry I hope your still around. Is their some way I can get a wiring diagram that tells me what all the numbers indicate. I've got a wire coming off of the positive post of the last battery that goes to something (it looks like #45 of the attached diagram you found for me. When I looked at the batteries yesterday I noticed that that post had all ready started some corrosion and it look like it had gotten hot enough to melt the shrink tube I put on the cable when I made new ends. I don't know if its something I need to be concerned with or not, please advise.
Thanks

[Larry1950]

Been out of town for several days.First to Oshkosh, Wi to the big EAA air show then to my cabin in Northern Michigan doing some serious salmon fishing.
First of all corrosion means resistance which equals heat. Clean the connection thoroughly, get some battery post sealer from any automotive store and cover the connection after cleaning. The battery posts need to be inspected and cleaned often to keep corrosion free. That corrosion will eventually destroy the cables and battery posts.

[gaminde]

good job Larry you stuck with it and got him running now post pictures of salmon fishing.

[Larry1950]

Sorry no pix, of this trip. I had left my camera and phone in the truck. But we got 8 King salmon ranging from 15 to 24lbs. How about Alaska Silver salmon, King salmon Lake Michigan Earlier this summer, and Mahi Mahi in the Bahamas

[Burchillb]

Larry, not only are you a golf cart wizard but looks like a pretty good fisherman as well.
Nice fish. Thanks for the help.