Ezgo wont go

[Mick]

I have a 94 medlist the solinoid clicks but no move ment. just put new batteries in was running fine have power to motor all four lugs in reverse or forward seems odd

[andy4639]

Take the F/R handle while you have the gas pedal pressed to engage the solenoid wiggle the handle back and forth. Don't jerk it just easly wiggle.
They get hot a warp and loose conntact. Look at the cam and make sure all the nuts are tight.

[Mick]

i tried this still no go i hear the solinoid click though and back up alarm works

[dougmcp]

Try jumping the 2 large posts on the solenoid with a 6ga cable. If the cart moves replace the solenoid.

[Mick]

i have power on both sides also have power at the motor lugs all 4 have power in forward and rev is this right seems odd

[oddpowers]

If you are testing the motor with a volt meter on the neg of the battery and pos on the terminals of the motor, you will show power to all four terminals. It seems to me you may have something hooked up wrong, or possibly a controller problem.

[Mick]

yes using volt meter had neg to frame though also was pulling hard in reverse when it quite. pulling as in the 39 chevy and was spinning tires. is there a way to ck control or motor to see which is bad ?

[andy4639]

Man if you give details like this it's a lot better. Spinning wheels with a heavy load like that! You burnt the motor out of it more than likely are the controller are both.

I'd say you fried it. Check the F/R contactors and see if they are all burnt up. I'll be surprised if they aren't.

[oddpowers]

Yes, that does appear to be a valuable detail you left out.

My guess is your controller is toast.....

[dougmcp]

To add to that, when you are checking voltage on an electric cart you need to check at the battery. Electric carts do not use the frame for any electrical connections including the ground.
If you want to take the time to diagnose and have some patience we can probably walk you through it.

[andy4639]

Sorry for my post earlier but details like that are how we figure out what happened to it.

I will help you all I can but you have to be forth giving of info when you want us to help figure out what happened. We need as much info as possible if you want a good answer to the problem.

[Mick]

srry a bit overwhelmed with this computer forum and a bit mad upset with my self for using it as a tow truck im going to check battery voltage and check as much as i can then give you all a complete list of readings and findings thank you for your help so far

[dougmcp]

We're here to help as much as we can.
Has the cart been modified in any way or is it completely stock?
Maybe start by posting up your total pack voltage and each individual battery voltage and we can go from there.

[Mick]

its stock i checked battery pack neg side and pos side got 37 volts i put the f/r in either postion and press pedal and solinoid clicks

[andy4639]

Jack the cart back wheels off the ground and put a cable on the 2 big terminals and then try it. If it works the solenoid is bad.
Just because it clicks doesn't mean much.

Another test take a volt reading on the small terminals one with key off and one with it on and see if it's passing voltage.

Make sure all the cables are good and tight. Pull on each one of them good. If they are good and tight then a good pull want hurt them. If they are loose are fixing to come apart you will find it.

[Mick]

I jumped big post still just a click
I then turn key off and got 0 at small post
i then turn key on and got 37 volt at red wire small post
37 volts if i put grd on black wire small post and pos on red wire post with key on

[Mick]

is this good and is there a way to chk the controller?

[dougmcp]

Assuming everything is good to the controller you can test this way:
Key on, F/R in forward, throttle depressed.
Measure voltage on the controller from B+ to M- if you have no voltage the controller is bad.
Here is a schematic of the controller:
Click to enlarge

[Mick]

Thnx i checked finally and no reading also noticed the flat lug comin out of controller has a seperation from the plastic around it like it got hot i know iknow i cuased this. Now is there a place to look for a controller at a decent price?

[dougmcp]

Are you looking for a new, used or rebuilt one?
I believe you have a Curtis 1204 controller bu you will need to get the number off the end panel to confirm they are the same. It should be something like these numbers eg: 1204-1203 or 1204-201/207 or 1204X-P002.

[Mick]

Im thinkin new or rebuilt i found these on plate that black controller bolts to p168274 or do i need to remove controller to see the number?

[andy4639]

Yes the controller number is on the bottom of it.

[Mick]

i took it loose the only number is P168274 and has EZGO on face. it also sparked across lugs when i was taking it loose with the batteries diconected does it store energy? im told its a 1994 medalist serial is 822466 code j2294

[dougmcp]

They do store energy so the small arcing is normal.
Your manufacturing code on your cart indicates it is a 1994 cart.
The number on it is not an Ezgo PN or anything I am familiar with.
Can you post a photo of it? Is it black or silver?

[Mick]

Black ill try to do a pic

[Mick]

cant upload pics says to big gives error

[dougmcp]

After you take your photo you need to resize it so the system will take it or use a photobucket account or even a service called tinypic.com
Does it look like this?

OR this?

[Mick]

Bottom but has 4 lugs and 5 pins has m- b- b+ a2

[Mick]

[Mick]

[andy4639]

Some one put a late model controller in the cart. That controller is only good for 275amps. I would say it's burnt up.

[dougmcp]

I found a used 1992 Marathon controller and have sent the guy a tickler for the pricing. Will pass on to you when I get the info.
Ask andy4639 if he has a controller for sale. He just posted an Alltrax 400a series controller that would give your cart some extra pulling power.

[Mick]

would it work with my motor? And my wiring? If so how much you want for it andy and is it new or used ? Also thnx for all the help so far doug and andy

[andy4639]

I have a controller for this. I would take $300.00 + shipping. It's non programable. Just put it in and go.
It has the solenoid already mounted on it.
I need to look and make sure it's for the 0-5k input though. I can't remember for sure are is it for a ITS.

[Mick]

what amp is it and is it new or used?

[andy4639]

Everything I have is for ITS signal. What kind of throttle does the cart have in it? It should have the pot box for throttle.
If it's a pot box I can program it for you before I send it.
A used 400amp long box.

$350.00+ shipping
Prority mail is how I ship most stuff.

[Mick]

here is what i got andy[IMG][/IMG]

[Mick]

[IMG][/IMG]

[Mick]

[IMG][/IMG]

[andy4639]

The controller should work fine. Either one of them. It's a ITS series cart from the pictures. They are just about to small but you have the right stuff so your good to go.
I didn't think they swaped over that soon to the ITS system.

[Mick]

[Mick]

[Mick]

If it s the right stuff ill call you tuesday nite or wensday nite. im thinkin the 400 if you can program it for me so if i want to change later i can thnx

[andy4639]

I will check it and make sure it's set right for you. It should be good to go.

[andy4639]

On the controller I have you are going to have to cut your harness and put spade connectors on the wires to hook it up.

[Mick]

on the 5 pin plug? and what order do i hook up? if ok when i do it ill call you

[andy4639]

Yes 5 pin plug. Yes call me when you do it. Just follow the digram for it and it should be fine.

[Mick]

got contoler andy whens a good time to call you?

[andy4639]

I'm here at the house anytime is good.

[andy4639]

The big terminals are the same as the old one.

The small spade connections are #1 power from solenoid.
2 & 3 are the white and black from ITS pedal. The 4th one is for 1/2 speed not used.

[Mick]

Ok Andy got it cleaned and hooked . Battery pack, Neg toB- and charger
Pos to solinoid right large post and charger.

B+ to 12 0clock F/R and solinoid left side large post
B- to Battery pack Neg solinoid right small post
M- to motor A1

S1 motor to F/R 3 oclock
S2 motor to F/R 9 oclock

A1 motor to M- on controller
A2 motor to F/R 6 oclock

solinoid with small post toward you
left large postB+ F/R 12oclock
right large post Battery pack pos. and blue wire to F/R

they have a diode or restor going from left to right small and large post on solinoid

Small left postred wire to 1 on controller red wire to F/R
Small rightBlack wire to B- and another wire into harness

that about does it i just have to hook up the pos and neg to battery pack upon your ok !

[andy4639]

I'm at work tonight and will have to get home and look at the schematic to verify. It sounds right. The diode on the 2 small terminal should have a white band on it. It's the + side.

[andy4639]

Hookup

Here is the link. Looks good to me.

http://www.alltraxinc.com/files/Doc100-043-B_DWG-AXE-EZGO-Wire-Dia.pdf

[Mick]

thnx will double chk tommorow against schematic

[Mick]

IT RUNs Thnx andy and doug its on charger but it moved f and r had to change s1 s2 but seems ok now to make a cover cant wait to take it out and run it see if its any faster lol

[Mick]

goes great but seems reverse is faster will see if can fix so rev is forward this weekend

[andy4639]

Good to hear.

Swap the cables on the F/R cam. Some times like I said the S-1 and S-2 are swaped.

[Mick]

Hey goes great Battery life seems short though any ideas less than 30 min run time

[andy4639]

#1. I would say it's getting time for batteries.
#2. Do they have water in them?

It may take a couple of cycles to get them back up to fully being charged.

[Mick]

they are new batteries and i keep them on charger when not using

[Mick]

grandson drove it all day and it did fine thnx again now its time for a paint job!

[andy4639]

Shew that was a relief!

I saw where you posted again and I thought Oh no what happen! Glad it's running OK.

[timberwolflt]

Well, I've spent a lot of time reading you guys and I got my cart running with all the information you guys shared here and I sure do appreciate it but I do have a couple questions if you ain't too busy.

My solenoid has a resistor connecting the large terminals and I'm not sure what it's for. The used control box I put on it didin't have one but I went ahead and intalled it anyway.

Secondly, my fnr switch isn't like any I've ever seen... I was wondering why it might be different. It isn't a toggle or a cam switch. Just a three position switch. The switch also has some type of resistor connecting two of the terminals. Can ya'll shed any light on what the resistors are about?

[andy4639]

The one on the 2 big terminals is for the closing of the solenoid so it doesn't arck.
The little one on the 2 smaller terminals is to keep it from back feeding it's a diode should have a white band on one side. This should be + coming in to it off key switch.

[timberwolflt]

Thanks alot... You've been very helpful... The pro mechanic at the golf cart shop checked it out and decided my motor was bad but I suspected that it wasn't because I parked it when it was running fine, plugged it in and the next day it just didn't work. I know very little about golf carts but given that the control box had kind of a melted look to it... With my brilliant deductive powers being what they are and all... I was suspicious... Rocket science, right? Not so much. But I didn't have a clue how to start the troubleshooting process but you fixed that... Some of my leads had questionable connections and I think that may have been the culprit, so I replaced them all... so, Thanks again.

[andy4639]

Here is a good article to read about them from Alltrax.

http://www.alltraxinc.com/files/Doc120-046-A_TN010-Contactor-Fuse-Diode-Lessons-Learned.pdf

This may help you to understand the workings better.

[pbsdaddy]

Good info there Andy. Thanks for posting.

[KismetLRC]

Hey gang, new to this forum but have had carts for a while.
My current project is an older Western Golf 36v with a Curtis 1204 controller.

I've just installed new batteries, which I assume I've done correctly. I'm getting 40v on charge and about 38 when first installed.

Problem is, the cart won't run. Solenoid clicks, but Im not sure how to test it.
I get full voltage (38.6) with key on, F/R in forward, and pedal depressed (across B+ and M- on the controller).

Positive and negative across the solenoid only show 28.9V and go to 0 when pedal is depressed.

Did I wire something incorrectly or is my solenoid bad?

Thanks!

I'll post up pics of the cart tomorrow when the sun is out. I've had her since the day she was born....many moons ago. Serial # 1000719141

[andy4639]

Sounds like you don't have the solenoid wire correct.

[KismetLRC]

Solenoid wires haven't been changed since it came off the factory line in 1989. Nothing around the engine, controller or solenoid has ever been touched.

Could I have wired the batteries up incorrectly to have this happen?
All appear to run In series.

[KismetLRC]

Here's the voltage off of the solenoid. When the pedal is depressed, the voltage goes to zero.

What's the small black box here with voltage going to the solenoid?

[KismetLRC]

Right side battery wiring. Negative going to charger inlet doesn't show up too well



Left side

[andy4639]

Here is the schematic for it.



Check the micro switch and see it it's passing the voltage through.

[KismetLRC]

I've seen that and all appears to be good. Is there a schematic of the solenoid?
I'm concerned about the low voltage across the posts. This is a 4 post WR solenoid. 26V doesn't seem right.

Any other thoughts?