What is this cart worth

[redman34]

Hey can someone tell me what this cart is worth?

I am thinking of offering the guy 800.00 for it, hoping I can turn around and sell it.

I was thinking it might sell for about 1200.00 as is.

What do you think?

Do you think I can flip it and resell it it? Think I should ask 1200.00?

1996 Ezgo Golf Cart - $900 (Indio)




1996 Ezgo Golf cart. Batteries 2 years old. Installed new wiring when the batteries were installed. Lights and split windshield. Hardly used last 5 years. Bought new cart and this one has to go because I have no where to park it.

http://palmsprings.craigslist.org/rvs/2756975877.html

[Michael Eddie]

hmmm yes that is a good deal for your offer. hard to tell from the pictures about the body condition, but I would check out the body to make sure it is clean and not all scratched up. Its also got a windshield and mirror, thats almost $200 in accessories. But the batteries may be bad. Says he hardly used it for the past 5 years, so he probably hardly charged it as well!

Just my pointers. Others feel free to chime in

[dougmcp]

Drive the cart to make sure all is OK then take out your meter and take some voltage readings, scratch your head, hum and haw a little then offer him $700.
Take cash and a trailer when you go so he knows your serious.
It's a TXT so it is current and should sell for $1400-$1700 after you clean it all up.

[andy4639]

Drive the cart to make sure all is OK then take out your meter and take some voltage readings, scratch your head, hum and haw a little then offer him $700.
Take cash and a trailer when you go so he knows your serious.
It's a TXT so it is current and should sell for $1400-$1700 after you clean it all up.

Correct!


I would buy it even if he want drop to $700.00

[dougmcp]

I would buy it even if he want drop to $700.00

Me too.

[redman34]

Yea baby!!!!!!!!!!!! I got the cart for 800.00!

This cart looks alot like my 2001 PDS cart. I really like the looks of this 800 dollar cart.

What it has, that my 2001 does not have, is A drop down windshield,the long mirror, head lites and tail lites. The headlites and tail lites, give it a completly different appearance.

This is what I am wondering :

How hard and how much work would it be, to exchange the 2 bodies? I think i want my existing carts frames, brakes etc, so am wondering if this is something I can do?

By the way, it is PDS cart just like mine.

[andy4639]

Just time my friend just time. Those carts have a ton of ribets in them but it can be swaped.
That's a nice score though for $800.00

[redman34]

So I need to find all the rivers and drill them out? Besides drilling out the rivets, and disconnecting the body wiring, do i need to disconnect or take anything else apart?

How heavy is the fiberglass body? Can me and my wife lift it?

[dougmcp]

Yea baby!!!!!!!!!!!! I got the cart for 800.00!

WOW! Congrats on the new cart!

How heavy is the fiberglass body? Can me and my wife lift it?

The body is a molded thermoplastic and not very heavy.
Just thinking, why not just clean up the new cart, sell it and use the profit for a custom paint job on your cart?

[dougmcp]

By the way, it is PDS cart just like mine.

If it's a 1996 cart and is a sepex motor it is a DCS cart that is similar but not the same as your 2001 PDS.
The carts both have the same body but a different motor, controller, F/R switch and I believe the steering system changed around 2001 as well.

Check this out:

[Michael Eddie]

Yeah Baby!!!

[andy4639]

The body should be plastic. You should be able to lift it yourself once everything is disconnected. They weigh nothing. The DCS cart will need the PDS senor and magnet which you can buy seperate. The connections are all ifferant to but that is about $100.-- for all new wiring. Look at my post about doing this. I just did it to the blue cart I posted about. I put all 04 PDS stuff in a 96.

[redman34]

I think this is a pds cart.

On the plaque it says " C402" 1473296

Has the run/tow switch, has the F/R toggle on the dash, and there is a decal on the lower body that says PDS.

I like the look of the tail and head lites, alot better than my 2001 pds.

It also has trojen 105 "s that charge to 100%.

I need to know how big of a undertaking it will be to swap the bodies, since I am starting the new battery business Feb 1.

Right now my wifes car is outside because i brought home a second cart, to "flip".

I can't let this sit in the garage very long.

Anyone have pictures of ezgo body "swapping/removing/installing?

ALSO, when I drive this cart and let off the gas pedal, it has a helacious back torque, that seems like it will throw you across the street. This doesn't happen with my other cart. Is this normal?

[dougmcp]

You have an E-Z-GO Model Year: 2002 Make/Model: Electric TXT Golf Car (PDS).
It is the same as the cart you have now, just a year newer.
The back torque is the regen braking, does it have a chip (plug with a wire loop) installed on the controller?
IMO I would sell your cart and keep this one instead of trying to change the bodies around.
Just take whatever you need from your old cart (seat, wheels, batteries, etc) and swap them out.

You can put your cart into the diagnostic mode to tell what you have but basically the chip looks like this:

[redman34]

DOUG - Thanks for all that info. I will keep the new cart!

One of the reasons I was thinking of keeping my old cart frame, was it has better brakes than the new one.

I guess it would be easier just to put new brakes on this cart than all that swapping.

The biggest decision then is the batteries.

My original cart has new COSCO batteries, about 4 months old, that I have been charging and desulphating religiously.

The new cart has trojen T105's. I see UO8J9 stamped in them ( can you deciphor this for me?). I charged them up and the voltage reading, after sitting for 8 hours was 38.4.

What would you do, which batteries would you keep?

Is it that big of deal to do the brakes?

I will check out the speed chip, I have not looked yet. I am not doing anything with the cart until after Tuesday. That is when I am getting a demonstration of the dyna pulse unit.

I am considering trying to restore peoples cart batteries , as an option, besides buying all new. Reasons being, alot of these folks are retired and on limited income, no matter how you educate them on the maintenance, I don't think they will maintain them properly. Also if someone wants to sell a cart, and need batteries, they wouldn't have to spend 700.00, when they can pay 200.00 for a set restored and warrantied for a year.

Also, it gives me a sales pitch that no one else can give them around here.
I can tell in 1 minute if the batteries are restorable or not. Hopefully it will build some trust.

I will check the speed chip this week.

I can build the chips, no problem. I use to build them and sell them on ebay.

I still have alot of supplies. Let me know if you need any, I can hook you up.


ANDY : I want one of those chargers!!! I will start looking for one. That is awesome!

[dougmcp]

Just my thouughts:
The Trojan batteries are Sept/09 so they are a year older than yours.
They have similar specs but you don;t know how the Trojans were taken care of compared to yours. It probably doesn't matter but I would probably keep the known quantity good batteries.

Brakes are not too hard to do but they don't wear out that quickly and may just need cleaning, lubricating and possibly adjusting (linkage, cables etc.).

IMO gaining people's trust and attempting to restore someone's neglected batteries is not a win-win proposal. Regardless if the people are on a limited budget, one problem or one time it doesn't meet the customer's expectations, regardless of the fault and your name could be mud. For those on a limited budget, if you find a bad battery you could always sell them a used one to fill in until the complete pack expires.

The advantage that you have in your area is that you will provide the personal service that few golf cart repair shops can or will.
Maybe from an advantage perspective you could put them on a 6 month rotation where you road test, load test, clean terminals, water up the batteries, grease the cart, check the brakes and give the cart a good cleaning. Trust is something earned in the repair business not a sales pitch of what you can do vs the competitor. From a customer's perspective, that to me builds more trust than a fancy machine that may or may not keep their carts in good running condition. You may not get all the business with that approach but the business that you earn will never leave you for the next guy with a newer truck, fancier machine and a better sales pitch.

[andy4639]

DOUG - Thanks for all that info. I will keep the new cart!

One of the reasons I was thinking of keeping my old cart frame, was it has better brakes than the new one.

I guess it would be easier just to put new brakes on this cart than all that swapping.

The biggest decision then is the batteries.

My original cart has new COSCO batteries, about 4 months old, that I have been charging and desulphating religiously.

The new cart has trojen T105's. I see UO8J9 stamped in them ( can you deciphor this for me?). I charged them up and the voltage reading, after sitting for 8 hours was 38.4.

What would you do, which batteries would you keep?

Is it that big of deal to do the brakes?

I will check out the speed chip, I have not looked yet. I am not doing anything with the cart until after Tuesday. That is when I am getting a demonstration of the dyna pulse unit.

I am considering trying to restore peoples cart batteries , as an option, besides buying all new. Reasons being, alot of these folks are retired and on limited income, no matter how you educate them on the maintenance, I don't think they will maintain them properly. Also if someone wants to sell a cart, and need batteries, they wouldn't have to spend 700.00, when they can pay 200.00 for a set restored and warrantied for a year.

Also, it gives me a sales pitch that no one else can give them around here.
I can tell in 1 minute if the batteries are restorable or not. Hopefully it will build some trust.

I will check the speed chip this week.

I can build the chips, no problem. I use to build them and sell them on ebay.

I still have alot of supplies. Let me know if you need any, I can hook you up.


ANDY : I want one of those chargers!!! I will start looking for one. That is awesome!

The chip is the steep hill if it throws you forward when you let off the gas.
Keep your new batteries hands down!
Brakes just follow my post on them. Take one side off at a time and sand the pads lightly. Clean the backing plate good and lube it.
Charging and desulphating religiously is not good on the batteries unless it is called for. I wouldn't over do it you are killing your charge cycles on them.
Change out the cosmatic stuf and sell the lod one.

[redman34]

I have some questions:
First regarding Dougs post--

Do you have an 2002 PDS manual you can shoot me?
In reference to the 6 month service, how would you load test their batteries?
When you say grease up the cart, what all needs greasing?
How would you actually check their brakes? I mean would you take them apart?

Also i have been meaning to ask you, I have never seen where you have even referred to cosco batteries, any reason? Do you know who makes their batteries? I have been buying sams batteries since I saw you are ok with them, but I would like your opinion on the cosco cart batteries?

ANDY: You mention that i could follow your post regarding brakes. I don't know how to do that. Can you direct me to it

Also what do you use to lube the backplates, what brand and what is i?t

[dougmcp]

The owner's manual is here: http://www.golfcartsforum.com/golf-c...rs-manual.html
The service manual is huge, here's the link: http://www.golfcartsforum.com/golf-c...ce-manual.html

Re load testing, you could use the Lester unit you have or you can do a quickie load test with a cheapie Harbor Freight load tester and get a real good indication of battery condition. You could probably test 6 batteries in about 20 minutes with this thing: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...?q=load+tester

Re Cosco batteries, are you referring to Costco? If so they are not really any different than any other CG battery, probably made in Mexico by a contractor. I don't have any personal experience with them but don't see or hear of any issues either. Next time your there get the info off the tags and post it up.

Re checking the brakes, ask the owner how they are doing, and test drive, any further cleaning lubing etc should take place at your shop/garage.

[andy4639]

OK here is my way of doing a brake job on a Ezgo rear end. First jack it up and place on stands safety is always first. Take the lugs loose and remove wheel & tire. Some of the pictures show the axle gone. I did this while replacing my axle as well just forgrt the axle is gone.
Now for the fun part:

First take the cable loose from the brake lever on the back side of the backing plate.



Once this is loose work the brake lever back and forth a few times and get it loose and free. Just make sure it moves.

Now you get to take the hub off. Take the cotter key out and back the nut off. After that it can get tricky. If the hub isn't in bad shape it should slide right off. If the shoes have woren a groove into the hub it's hammer time.
Take and hit the hub around the outer edge and hope it comes off. You can also stick a screw driver up inside the hub at the bottom of the brakes and turn the star wheel in so the shoes will loosen up on the hub.

See the teeth on the wheel. You have to get a screw driver in the hole of the hub and turn it in. This can be done it just takes a little time.

Now the hub is off and you are looking at the shoes and springs.


I use a small set of needle nose vise grips and take the bottom spring off.


Now take the two side keepers off they are the metal clips that are on each shoe. Just needle nose pliers and twist them off. Push in on the metal tab and twist the pin. Sorry about the picture it has the bottom spring on it. Just wanted to show the clips.

Now just take the shoes off with the top spring in place and set them down like they come off for referance later.
Now remove the brake lever are assembly.

Clean it really good and relube all the moving parts.
Clean the rest of the brake up as well. I use brake cleaner and wipe it down good.

Now with everything clean relube the backing plate with some good lube. See the wear marks in the plate this is normal just make sure you put some lube in those area's to help it move smooth. I also lube where the lever arm slides in the bottom of the plate also.

Once all this is done just go back in the same order you took everything off and then when your ready to put the hub back on you will need to adjust the star wheel so the hub barely will slip over the shoes. This may take severl tries to get right. Once the hub is on and tighten back up with the nut and cotter key installed, make sure you get it tight. I put 100 LBS of torque on mine. Now you need to loosen the brake cable tee under the drivers side floor. The rod has two 1/2" nuts that you loosen until you can hooke the cable back up to the brake arm. Make sure your cables are working and not binding this will cause trouble with your brakes if they don't move freely in the skins. Once you can hook the arm up you can tighten the 1/2" nuts back up until the slack is gone. You want just enough slack so the spring isn't got tension on the system when not being used.
I hope this helps everyone and if one of the admin wants to move it to the resource area that's fine too.

[redman34]

Awesome pics Andy! Thanks i will save this link.

When you need parts like brake shoes, shocks, etc, where do you buy them from?

[andy4639]

Whoever gives me a good price. I do Google search for them and look around and buy.

[dougmcp]

Whoever gives me a good price. I do Google search for them and look around and buy.

Me too.