My 2003 DS is driving me crazy. Parked it in the shed last fall with no problems. This spring i pulled it out, ran ok for a few minutes then wouldnt start. It cranks no problem and battery is good. Though it may be a fuel problem so i changed everything from fuel to lines, fuel pump and carb. Same thing, it would sometimes start and run good and the next time you try it , cranks good but no fire. So i went on to electrical. New plug, same thing. Changed out the original coil with a new one from Amazon. Worked for a while, then same issues. Put in another coil from Amazon, same thing. Somtimes it will fire, other times not. Have tried with disconnected Rev Limiter, same thing. Battery good, cranks fine, i pull the spark plug wire, throw in another plug to check spark. Get a second of weak spark, then nothing. Sometimes though i get good spark. reattach the plug wire and off she goes like a champ. Sure i could just buy a new oem coil, but is there something else it could be that could regulate the spark.....bad ground somewhere, bad key switch, Any help appreciated, ive tried all i know to do.
2003 Club Car DS gas spark problems
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I get how frustrating it can be when your cart keeps acting up despite your best efforts. It’s tempting to keep replacing parts in hopes of fixing the issue especially with aftermarket components because they are cheap, but this approach can make the problem worse. Instead of throwing cheap parts at the problem, let's take a systematic approach to identify the root cause.
First, can you consistently get the engine to fail to start, or does it happen intermittently? Additionally, does this failure occur under specific conditions, such as when the engine is warm or during a cold start? Understanding the conditions under which the problem occurs can provide valuable clues for the next steps.
Let’s review what you’ve done so far and how it relates to your symptoms. You parked the cart without issues last fall, but this spring, after pulling it out, it ran fine initially but then wouldn’t start reliably. You suspected a fuel problem and replaced the fuel, lines, pump, and carburetor. This was a good step, as creating a clean and functioning fuel system is needed for the engine to run properly. However, since the issue persisted, it suggests that the problem might not be solely related to the fuel system.
Next, you moved on to the electrical system by replacing the spark plug and installing new coils from Amazon. While replacing these parts can resolve ignition issues, aftermarket components sometimes introduce new variables, such as consistent spark problems or varying quality, which might exacerbate existing issues. The fact that the engine sometimes fires and sometimes doesn’t, even after replacing coils and disconnecting the rev limiter, points to a possible inconsistency in the system or another underlying issue.
The engine needs several specific components to run properly: a consistent fuel supply, a strong and reliable spark with proper grounding, and adequate compression. Each of these components must function correctly for the engine to start and run smoothly.
To start, lets first pump out the fuel tank completely and replace it with fresh, high quality fuel. Over time, fuel can degrade, especially if it has been sitting through the winter, leading to starting problems. Fresh fuel eliminates the possibility of old or contaminated fuel causing the issue.
Next, lets verify that fuel is flowing correctly from the tank through the lines to the carburetor. Any blockages or air leaks in the fuel line can disrupt the fuel supply, which could be the reason why the engine sometimes runs and sometimes doesn’t. Pull off the main fuel line that runs to the carburetor and press the accelerator pedal, a steady pulse of fuel should flow from the hose.
Now that the fuel quality and delivery has been confirmed. Performing a compression test on the engine will help determine if there’s adequate compression for the engine to run properly. Compression issues can prevent an engine from starting or cause it to run intermittently, much like what you’ve described. If the compression is low, it might be indicative of deeper engine issues that need to be addressed.
I know this all may feel like taking a step backwards, but it’s important to start from the beginning and verify that each fundamental component is functioning correctly before moving on to more complex diagnostics. Our goal is to help you avoid exacerbating the issue with unnecessary part replacements and ultimately lead to a more reliable and efficient repair process.
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Thanks golfcartg for the post. I did empty and clean out the gas tank and refilled with premium fuel. I've pulled off the fuel line and can confirm that fuel is at least getting to the carb. I orginally in the spring, pulled the carb and cleaned out all the jets and confirmed the float wasn't stuck. I have a new carb which i may try. One thing i have noticed is that when i pull the plug from the engine after trying to start it, the plug appears dry, (but still not sparking). I have tried pouring a little fuel into the spark plug hole, installing the plug with no difference. I have checked compression, but when the cart gets spark and goes it runs perfectly.
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Run through this guide and let me know how far you can getAttached Files:
Free Download, courtesy of Golf Carts Forum
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i tried to just the spark plug cap by removing it from the wire and putting red lead in plug end and black lead on the screw. My tester just has a symbol for ohms. It reads O.L. i dont know much about using a multimeter. i switched the meter to 9V, put the red lead thru the plug casing into the wire, grounded the black lead and pushed the gas pedal, reading bounced all over the place from 5 to 1 and inbetween. When i screw the plug cap on the wire and did the same thing only with the red lead inside the cap where the plug would connect all i got 0.1. I have no idea if that is significant at all.
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