2008 Precedent intermittent start

[Rick726]

Can anyone tell me where the body ground is on a 2008 gas precedent? Also when the key is off I have no voltage on the small terminals on the start solenoid. When I turn the key on I have 12 volts on BOTH the small terminals. Is this normal? I am having a reoccurring no start problem. I have already changed the solenoid and the starter/gen but the problem persists.

[golfcartg]

It's important to avoid the common pitfall of simply replacing parts in the hopes that one of them will resolve the issue. This approach can quickly become both expensive and ineffective as it doesn't address the underlying cause of the problem. Instead, lets focus on a process of elimination, typically using a DVM to accurately diagnose the issue and find a long term solution.

You mentioned the cart runs intermittently, when the cart is running fine, try feeling around for any components or wires that seem to be getting unusually hot. Heat can be a significant indicator of electrical problems, such as a bad connection or an overloaded circuit. Pay special attention to the solenoid, starter/generator, and any wiring near the ignition system as these could all be potential culprits.

Next, lets consider what happens when the cart shuts down. Do you hear a click when it stops working? The presence or absence of this click can be very telling. If you hear a click but the cart doesn’t start, the issue might be related to the starter circuit, possibly the solenoid not engaging correctly even though it’s receiving power. If there’s no click at all, the problem might be more complex.

[Rick726]

It's important to avoid the common pitfall of simply replacing parts in the hopes that one of them will resolve the issue. This approach can quickly become both expensive and ineffective as it doesn't address the underlying cause of the problem. Instead, lets focus on a process of elimination, typically using a DVM to accurately diagnose the issue and find a long term solution.

You mentioned the cart runs intermittently, when the cart is running fine, try feeling around for any components or wires that seem to be getting unusually hot. Heat can be a significant indicator of electrical problems, such as a bad connection or an overloaded circuit. Pay special attention to the solenoid, starter/generator, and any wiring near the ignition system as these could all be potential culprits.

Next, lets consider what happens when the cart shuts down. Do you hear a click when it stops working? The presence or absence of this click can be very telling. If you hear a click but the cart doesn’t start, the issue might be related to the starter circuit, possibly the solenoid not engaging correctly even though it’s receiving power. If there’s no click at all, the problem might be more complex.

Thanks for the reply! Today I removed the floor and jumped the pedal switch but it would not turn over. I have power at both small solenoid terminals with the key on but no power across the large terminals. I can jump the large terminals and the engine cranks over. Do you think the new solenoid might be bad or is it something in the start circuit. I did shake down most of the wires and cleaned the body ground but it still won't crank on its own. What would you recommend I do next?

[golfcartg]

Disconnect battery and spark plug wire(s). Verify that the solenoid wires are connected correctly and are tight using the wiring diagram. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary. Set a multimeter to 200 ohms. Place the red (+) probe on one of the small posts of the solenoid and place the black (–) probe on the other small post. The reading should be 14 to16 ohms. If the reading is not within limits, the solenoid could be faulty.

Next, label and remove the wires on both small posts of the solenoid. Run jumper wires from the battery positive and battery negative, make sure the battery is good, and jump the small posts on the solenoid. If the solenoid activates, the issue is confirmed to a component within the solenoid activation circuit or its wiring

[Rick726]

I don't have a wiring diagram and the original solenoid did not have any terminal labels but I have the blue wire from the key on the "S" terminal on the new solenoid and the orange wire on the "I" terminal. Is that correct? I just removed the solenoid and did the ohm check you suggested and got no reading. I also jumped the terminal off of a good battery with no activation.

[golfcartg]

Inside a solenoid, the coil generates a magnetic field when voltage is applied to the small terminals, which pulls the plunger to close (complete) the circuit between the main contacts. However in many aftermarket solenoids, the coil windings are made from lower grade materials and wound with less precision leading to inconsistent magnetic fields. This can result in the plunger not engaging properly, causing the solenoid to fail to close the circuit or create a weak connection that can cause intermittent issues.

Additionally, the contacts themselves are often made from inferior metals and have thinner coatings. This can lead to instant failure or failure to establish a solid electrical connection.

It's not uncommon for a brand new aftermarket solenoid to be faulty right out of the box and this can be a frustrating experience. While aftermarket parts seem like a cost effective solution, the potential for immediate or early failure can lead to more headaches and expenses down the line. Given these factors I personally always go for OEM parts whenever possible.

[Rick726]

OK thank you for the info. I will get a new OEM solenoid and see what happens.

[Rick726]

Would you happen to have a diagram showing where 2008 Precedent fuses are located?

[golfcartg]

Yes here is the diagram with the fuses highlighted

[Rick726]

Thank you! I'm going to do some more checking today. I put the new solenoid in and now I don't have power on the small terminal with the key on. Very weird.

[Rick726]

Todays find was the 10 amp fuse was bad. I thought I had found the problem. I replaced the fuse and had 12 volts back on the two small solenoid terminals. As soon as I hit the start pedal it blows the fuse. Is it possible to hook up the small terminal leads on the solenoid wrong? I'm baffled???

[Rick726]

I was also wondering what this is for? It has a positive lead right from the battery.

[Michael Eddie]

The component in the picture is a circuit braker.

The orange wire on your solenoid is the ground side. This wire has to pass through both the Pedal switch and the Forward/Reverse (FNR) limit switch before it can reach ground. As a result, when you turn the key to the On position, you'll measure 12 volts on both of the small terminal wires of the solenoid, since the circuit is not yet complete.

The only time you'll see that 12 volts drop off the orange wire is when the FNR switch is set to either Forward or Reverse and you press the Pedal. At this point, the ground path is completed through the orange wire, allowing the solenoid to engage. If the fuse is blowing as soon as you press the start pedal, it suggests that there might be a short in the wiring or a miswiring issue causing a direct path to ground, which could be leading to the fuse blowing immediately.

The 10 Amp fuse is specifically for the low current wiring, which includes the circuit running from the ignition switch to the solenoid. This fuse protects the circuit that powers the solenoid when you turn the key. The microswitches at the back of the shifter and in the throttle box are part of this circuit, they are located on the grounding side of the circuit. There may also be an inline diode off of the orange wire on the solenoid that can sometimes fail.

Check between the solenoid and the key switch, where the power is flowing. Carefully look for any signs of miswiring or damage, such as cut, worn, or pinched insulation. A damaged wire in this section could cause a short circuit, which would lead to the fuse blowing as soon as you press the pedal. You can also check to make sure the battery terminals are connected correctly

[golfcartg]

2008 was a split year so if you do not have a throttle sensor [2008.5 and newer] and instead have a GCOR [2004-2008] you can use this diagram to trace the wires just to see if something is crossed

[Rick726]

Is there a way to check the diode if I remove the orange wire off of the solenoid. Where would I connect my multi-meter to see if is good? Ignition switch? Do you think a bad diode would cause the 10 amp fuse to blow? Are the areas called sonic just a wire junction. As you can probably tell I'm not great with schematics.

[Rick726]

I know I'm all over the place here but what if I hook everything back up except the start pedal and jump orange to green and see if the engine cranks without blowing the 10 amp fuse? I could also look for the part number to at least tell me if I have a GCOR or throttle sensor.

[golfcartg]

Make sure that the only white wire present is the 6 gauge cable going to the starter generator, and confirm there are no small white wires at the solenoid, as this could indicate a wiring issue or modification. Next, check for continuity between the black wire at the key switch and the white/black wire at the GCOR (assuming you have one). Both of these should be connected to frame ground, and continuity between them is normal and necessary for proper grounding. The white/black wire at the GCOR acts as the kill wire for the ignition coil, grounding the circuit to prevent the engine from running when the key is off or the pedal is up.

The GCOR is a plastic box that consists of two microswitches (thats all it does/has): a Normally Open (NO) switch and a Normally Closed (NC) switch. When the pedal is up, the NO switch is closed, grounding the ignition kill circuit and preventing the engine from running. Simultaneously, the NC switch is open, which disconnects the negative side of the solenoid coil activation circuit, preventing the solenoid from engaging. When the pedal is down, the switches return to their normal positions, allowing both the ignition to operate and the solenoid to engage.

Before making any further adjustments or troubleshooting, take photos of the current wiring setup. Label each wire and connection clearly to help you remember their original positions. This allows you to revert to your previous configuration if necessary. If the fuse is blowing when you press the pedal, it indicates an issue in the solenoid activation circuit, such as a short or incorrect wiring. Here’s what you should do. First, carefully recheck the wiring you performed after replacing the solenoid, this circuit consists of the battery, key switch, FNR microswitches, GCOR and solenoid. A blown fuse often points to a short circuit, which could be caused by incorrect connections or damaged wires. Confirm that all connections are secure and correctly matched according to the wiring diagram for your golf cart. Pay close attention to any areas where wires might be improperly connected or exposed, as these could cause a short. In the wiring diagram, a sonic weld is a high strength connection created by using ultrasonic vibrations to fuse multiple wires together forming a permanent bond without soldering. When multiple wires are shown in a sonic weld, it indicates that these wires are fused together into a single durable connection point.

[golfcartg]

[Rick726]

I definitely have the GCOR. Couldn't work on it yesterday but should be able to today. Thanks again for all the info. This is a great site.