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  • New to group, need advice!

    2013 Club Car Precedente (Gas)

    At the end of las summer was having a problem with my cart running great for a day or two and then after a stop it would do nothing. This started a process of changing battery, solenoid, starter motor. 9 did go the cheap route and not buy the Club Car factory motor). After each part replacement it would run for a day or two and then the same thing.Finally I parked it a few months and this week started. Charged the battery, changed the oil and filter. Pulled gas tank and cleaned and dried out, put in fresh gas and changed fuel filter. while gas tank was out, noticed broke throttle cable and replaced it. After all this fired right up and been driving around for two days and this morning same thing. Drove about five minutes , stopped and in a few minutes tried to go again nothing? No clicking or sound? Waited about five minutes and it started and I drove it the five minutes home. Parked it and it would not restart. now I have been parked for 30 minutes and still nothing?

    Any help is greatly appreciated!

    Wesley

  • #2
    Sounds like the rpm limiter is on its way out, around 09 they started integrating the ignitor into the coil. I would check to see if you have a black box (rpm limiter) tucked down on the lower front if the engine, you can remove the ground to bypass it, if the problem resolves replace it

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    • #3
      Could not find rpm limiter? Cant find it on parts list for my cart

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      • #4
        This one does not have one! But now I’m looking into maybe a problem getting power from dash! With key on not getting power to solenoid?? Will update in Am! Thank you

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        • #5
          Posted earlier by wstell
          Could not find rpm limiter? Cant find it on parts list for my cart
          Sorry wstell, that earlier post was meant for another topic. Somehow it’s here. Let me try again, *fingers crossed* It seems like you've tackled most of the potential culprits for your precedents no start/no click intermittent issue. Considering your troubleshooting efforts, there are two primary components that could be causing the problem: the solenoid and the gas pedal assembly's GCOR system, particularly since you've already replaced the battery, solenoid, starter motor, and even addressed the throttle cable. The first step would be to confirm the functionality of the new solenoid. Testing it with a multimeter or swapping it with a known working solenoid can help verify its operation. Try jumping the solenoid as soon as the problem occurs.

          Next, the gas pedal assembly, which houses GCOR system on the 2013. If the solenoid replacement doesn't resolve the issue, focus on the GCOR.

          If both the solenoid and GCOR are in working order, and the problem persists, then the likelihood of a ground or wiring issue becomes more significant. Careful inspection of the wiring harness and ground connections could identify any potential loose connections or damage

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          • #6
            I took dash apart this am, checked all connections, cleaned and kept checking gas pedal and at some point it fired up, so I left dash sort of hanging and went on about a 30 drive , starting and stopping with no problems. Went back to house,, stopped and carefully screwed dash back together and then nothin? Pulled dash back apart and check every thing again and still nothing, a few hours later. I have a multi meter but not sure what points to check ? Shouldn’t there be 12 volts with key on at the two small terminals on solenoid?

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            • #7
              Posted earlier by wstell
              I took dash apart this am, checked all connections, cleaned and kept checking gas pedal and at some point it fired up, so I left dash sort of hanging and went on about a 30 drive , starting and stopping with no problems. Went back to house,, stopped and carefully screwed dash back together and then nothin? Pulled dash back apart and check every thing again and still nothing, a few hours later. I have a multi meter but not sure what points to check ? Shouldn’t there be 12 volts with key on at the two small terminals on solenoid?
              To test for voltage levels, you'd typically use the DC voltage setting on your ohm meter. To do this, you'd turn the selector knob to the DC voltage setting, touch the red probe to the positive (+) terminal and the black probe to the negative (-) terminal of the component you're measuring, and then read the voltage displayed on the ohm meter's screen.

              First, with the key turned on, we want to check the voltage on the small posts of the solenoid. You should see 12 volts on both sides. If there's no voltage, we need to verify if there's voltage at the key switch. Specifically, we're looking for the Blue and Orange wires on the solenoid's small posts. The Blue wire carries 12 volts from the key switch, while the Orange wire acts as the negative and goes to the throttle switch (GCOR) in the pedal assembly, then to the limit switch on the shifter.

              If you have voltage on both sides, it's time to press the throttle down and check for 12 volts on the Green wire at the limit switch on the back of the shift lever. If you find voltage reaching the limit switch, it could mean the switch is faulty, not activated by the shifter mechanism cam, or there's a ground connection issue. If there's no voltage at the Green wire, the GCOR may be at fault. To check this, lift the rubber floor mat on the driver's side, remove the access panel behind the pedal assembly, and locate the wire harness going to the Go pedal.

              Next, turn the dial or selector knob to the continuity testing mode, typically denoted by a symbol resembling a sound wave or the word "Continuity". Unplug the connector with the Orange and Green wires. Use a multimeter set to Continuity test, and touch the meter probes to the pins in the GCOR. Pressing the GO pedal should produce an audible click from the GCOR, indicating continuity. If there's no continuity, it's likely that the GCOR is faulty. You can also verify this by inserting small jumper wire into the terminals of the harness connector to jump the green and orange wires together. Lastly, put the shifter in Neutral, turn the key on, and check for 12 volts reaching the green wire terminal on the shifter limit switch. This process should help identify any issues and guide you toward a solution for your cart.

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