I have a 2007 Precedent that has a sticking throttle. When I let off the gas the throttle still stays partially open and the engine backfires. When I step on the gas there is a delay before the throttle opens. I have replaced the cable and tried running it through different locations and changed the throttle return spring. Nothing seems to help. Any help before I bring it to the shop would be appreciated.
Sticking throttle
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It's great that you've already taken some proactive steps by replacing the throttle cable and trying different routing options. Let's dive deeper into troubleshooting. First off, if your Precedent is equipped with an aftermarket carburetor, these non-OEM carburetors lack the precise tuning needed for proper integration with the throttle system. This mismatch can lead to compatibility issues, causing symptoms like the sticking throttle you're encountering. Aftermarket carburetors do not undergo the same rigorous testing and calibration as their OEM counterparts. This discrepancy in tuning can result in compatibility issues, manifesting as symptoms like the sticking throttle you've described.
Now, since swapping out the cable hasn't yielded the desired results, let's narrow our focus to another key area: the pedal assembly. In the gas powered Club Car Precedent, the throttle system operates through the pedal assembly that controls the throttle based on pedal position. When you press down on the pedal, it should smoothly engage the throttle, allowing the engine to rev up. Conversely, when you release the pedal, the throttle should promptly return to its idle position, closing off the airflow to the engine.
Here's where things can get tricky: if the carburetor's throttle flap doesn't fully close when you release the pedal, it can spell trouble. This partial opening allows excess fuel to enter the combustion chamber, leading to incomplete combustion and, you guessed it, backfiring. It's like having the gas pedal stuck halfway down when you're trying to slow down, it's not ideal and can lead to some noisy, jarring results.
The goal is to verify the throttle system regulates airflow to the engine seamlessly responding promptly to pedal input. When everything is working as it should, you'll enjoy smooth acceleration and deceleration without any pesky issues.
Thoroughly check spring tension throughout the throttle system and consider adding helper springs if needed for additional support. Moreover, when replacing components, it's best to opt for original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts designed and tested specifically for your cart. While aftermarket parts may be cheaper, they often lack the precision and quality of OEM parts, potentially leading to issues and reduced reliability over time.Updated by Michael Eddie; May 7, 2024, 05:33 PM.
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Posted earlier by golfcartgIt's great that you've already taken some proactive steps by replacing the throttle cable and trying different routing options. Let's dive deeper into troubleshooting. First off, if your Precedent is equipped with an aftermarket carburetor, these non-OEM carburetors lack the precise tuning needed for proper integration with the throttle system. This mismatch can lead to compatibility issues, causing symptoms like the sticking throttle you're encountering. Aftermarket carburetors do not undergo the same rigorous testing and calibration as their OEM counterparts. This discrepancy in tuning can result in compatibility issues, manifesting as symptoms like the sticking throttle you've described.
Now, since swapping out the cable hasn't yielded the desired results, let's narrow our focus to another key area: the pedal assembly. In the gas powered Club Car Precedent, the throttle system operates through the pedal assembly that controls the throttle based on pedal position. When you press down on the pedal, it should smoothly engage the throttle, allowing the engine to rev up. Conversely, when you release the pedal, the throttle should promptly return to its idle position, closing off the airflow to the engine.
Here's where things can get tricky: if the carburetor's throttle flap doesn't fully close when you release the pedal, it can spell trouble. This partial opening allows excess fuel to enter the combustion chamber, leading to incomplete combustion and, you guessed it, backfiring. It's like having the gas pedal stuck halfway down when you're trying to slow down, it's not ideal and can lead to some noisy, jarring results.
The goal is to verify the throttle system regulates airflow to the engine seamlessly responding promptly to pedal input. When everything is working as it should, you'll enjoy smooth acceleration and deceleration without any pesky issues.
Thoroughly check spring tension throughout the throttle system and consider adding helper springs if needed for additional support. Moreover, when replacing components, it's best to opt for original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts designed and tested specifically for your cart. While aftermarket parts may be cheaper, they often lack the precision and quality of OEM parts, potentially leading to issues and reduced reliability over time.
I have a 2005 Club Car Precedent with the FE290 engine.
I am having the same erratic throttle control issue as described above. Upon discovering that the governor (shorter0 cable had both ends 9of the outer sleave) broken, I replaced that. I still have erratic accelleration and it is slow to go back to idle. I have a switch inline on the MCOR throttle off / kill circuit which allows it to idle until that switch or the key switch is turned off - mainly for troubleshooting this problem. I think
with the throttle butterfly closed with your finger, the idle is still too high which results in having to really stand on the brake to stop it. It seems to me that at idle, the clutches should release the transaxle.
Three questions:
1. On the OEM carb, where and how many carb adjustment screws should there be? I am envisioning a screw to limit / adjust the idle speed via the butterfly opening, but don't see it.
2. Someone mentioned adding a helper spring. Where exactly would that go? I think somewhere on the governor bellcrank which links the throttle cable to the governor cable... am I getting warm?
3. Could the governor linkage (shaft) adjustment be needed to correct this?
Thank you in advance for the expert advice.
Rick
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RickDeBacker Before addressing your questions, let's walk through some tests step by step so you can report back with the results:
With the key in the off position, press the accelerator pedal. Does the cart continue to turn over and run? Make a note of what happens when you perform this test and return to me with the result. Once you've made sure that the cart remains switched off when the key is turned off with the accelerator pedal depressed, you can move on to the next step.
Next, with they key in the ON positon, while driving the cart and accelerating, keep your foot on the gas pedal. With the cart in motion, turn the key to the OFF position. Does the cart slow down and shut down as it's supposed to? Are you still having to stand on the brake to stop it? Take note of how the cart behaves as during this test.
Once you've completed these tests, please report back with the results. This will help us narrow down the potential root cause of your erratic throttle, so we can focus on the appropriate steps to resolve this issue.
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