Do I have a reset button on this golf cart? Where is it?
1998 DS Club Car 48Volt
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It sounds like you might be thinking of carts equipped with a run/tow switch which some folks refer to as a "reset button" since it can basically shut off the cart. The run/tow switch cuts off power to the controller and is commonly found in carts with regenerative braking (regen), a system that captures energy while decelerating or going downhill and sends it back to the batteries. This switch is important in these systems because, if you tow a regen equipped cart without setting it to "tow," the motor can generate current that will fry the controller and motor. Shutting off the system via the run/tow switch prevents this, and also helps during maintenance as it indeed can be used like a "reset" button.
For carts that aren’t equipped with a run/tow switch, you can achieve a similar reset by carefully disconnecting the main pack’s negative cable for a few minutes. This will reset both the onboard computer (OBC) and the controller (if equipped) which sometimes helps resolve electrical or performance issues. If you have any additional questions feel free to ask!
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Posted earlier by D&LCompletely dead.
To set your multimeter, turn the dial to the DC voltage setting (usually marked with a "V" and a solid line with a dashed line underneath it). Make sure the range is set to at least 50V or higher, as we're checking for 48V.
Next, with the key ON, forward/reverse switch in FORWARD, and accelerator pedal DEPRESSED, place the black probe on the battery pack negative terminal and the red probe on the solenoid small post positive terminal (the White/Black wire) to measure the voltage.
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Very good, the solenoid small post test should show around pack voltage, if yes, disconnect the yellow wire on the opposite solenoid small post, then run a jumper wire from battery pack negative to the solenoid small post you just disconnected. This will temporarily bypass the OBC for testing purposes.
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At this point if the solenoid is not clicking when you press the pedal with the key on and in gear with the OBC bypassed, you can go ahead and replace the solenoid with a known good one.
To confirm a bad solenoid, take pictures for reference and label and remove the wires on the small posts of the solenoid, remove the diode running across the small posts of the solenoid (note the direction of the diode for easy reinstallation), with the diode and wires removed from both small posts of the solenoid, set your multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting, usually denoted by a symbol like "Ω" or "200Ω" or "2KΩ" on the dial. Place the red and black probes on the two small solenoid posts, and the multimeter should display a reading of 190 to 250 ohms if the solenoid is good.
If the display shows a very high or infinite reading, often indicated as "OL" or "1," it means there’s no continuity, suggesting the solenoid activation circuit has failed. If the reading is significantly lower than 190 ohms, it could indicate a short circuit or partial failure. Both readings point to a faulty solenoid.
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If you're getting a zero or low ohms reading between the two small posts of the solenoid, that indicates there’s no resistance, which usually suggests an internal short circuit. In a healthy solenoid, you should see resistance, so a zero or low reading confirms a faulty solenoid. It might be stuck in the closed position, or the internal coil could be damaged. At this point, I’d recommend replacing the solenoid with known good one to see if that resolves the issue. Use OEM parts whenever possible for the best results.
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