2001 ds club car 48v electrical problem

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2001 ds club car 48v......had a battery explode. Just replaced all batteries today. When I key the ignition my digital volt meter shows a full charge. Go to put in reverse and the audible noise is not heard. Put in forward and both forward and reverse do nothing when pushing on accelerator. I have the manual printed out but I have no idea on how to further diagnose this electrical problem.

[golfcartg]

Let’s walk through the basics to get you started. First, check the fuses. There’s a fuse located on the charge receptacle (see pic) and another inline fuse off the Onboard Computer (OBC). These are good places to begin.

Keep in mind that the controller provides the negative for the solenoid to close, but even if you jump the solenoid and force it to close, the cart still won’t move if the controller isn’t getting all the other necessary signals for operation. It’s important to get those signals working.

You mentioned that there’s no audible noise from the reverse buzzer. Does this happen when you put the Forward/Reverse switch into reverse? If you release the brake and try to push the cart by hand, you should hear a beep from the roll away alarm. If you don’t hear either the reverse buzzer or the roll away alarm, it’s possible the controller "thinks" it’s in tow mode.

To check this, inspect the Tow/Run switch. Unplug it and check for continuity. Also, verify that you have pack voltage on both sides of the switch when it’s in the "Run" position. This could give us a clearer idea of what’s going on with your system.

Recap:

1. Check fuses
2. Check run/tow switch
3. Check if reverse buzzer is getting power also, the controller will provide the ground to make it beep.
4. With the controller plug still connected, use a multimeter to check your controller inputs for voltage at all of the small pins. Place the black probe on the main battery negative and the red probe on each of the small pins to check for voltage. Key ON, cart in FWD, run/tow in RUN.

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I see the picture that you attached. What exactly is that part called and how would you test it?

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Also I do not have a tow switch on my cart

[golfcartg]

Also I do not have a tow switch on my cart

The 2001 DS PowerDrive System 48 and PowerDrive Plus vehicles with serial numbers prior to AA0112-001470 use a multi-step potentiometer.

The 2001 DS PowerDrive System 48 and PowerDrive Plus vehicles with serial numbers AA0112-001470 and greater use a motor controller output regulator (MCOR)

Curious which setup you have?

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The 2001 DS PowerDrive System 48 and PowerDrive Plus vehicles with serial numbers prior to AA0112-001470 use a multi-step potentiometer.

The 2001 DS PowerDrive System 48 and PowerDrive Plus vehicles with serial numbers AA0112-001470 and greater use a motor controller output regulator (MCOR)

Curious which setup you have?

SERIAL# AA0130-039036
VIN# 039036


Does that help you?

[golfcartg]

SERIAL# AA0130-039036
VIN# 039036


Does that help you?

Yep, sounds like MCOR. does the charger turn on and work as usual?

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Yep, sounds like MCOR. does the charger turn on and work as usual?

The batteries are fully charged so I assumed the charger wouldn't kick on

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Yep, sounds like MCOR. does the charger turn on and work as usual?

What's mcor?

[golfcartg]

Grab your multimeter and turn the dial to the DC voltage setting (usually marked with a "V" and a solid line with a dashed line underneath it). Make sure the range is set to at least 50V or higher, as we're checking for 48V. With the key ON, forward/reverse switch in FORWARD, and accelerator pedal DEPRESSED, place the black probe on the battery pack negative terminal and the red probe on the solenoid small post positive terminal (the White/Black wire) to measure the voltage.

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Grab your multimeter and turn the dial to the DC voltage setting (usually marked with a "V" and a solid line with a dashed line underneath it). Make sure the range is set to at least 50V or higher, as we're checking for 48V. With the key ON, forward/reverse switch in FORWARD, and accelerator pedal DEPRESSED, place the black probe on the battery pack negative terminal and the red probe on the solenoid small post positive terminal (the White/Black wire) to measure the voltage.

I will try that

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So I'm baffled....so I replaced the MCOR, FORWARD/REVERSE SWITCH ASSEMBLY and the SOLENOID. Keyed on system and it won't go forward or reverse. I'm getting the audible alarm for reverse and I can hear a clicking when I push on the accelerator. I'm lost at this point.

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I hear the solenoid clicking but no movement in reverse or forward

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Charger is working good. I disconnected the negative and pressed the accelerator pedal for 5 seconds.

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Is this a fuse?

[golfcartg]

Sounds like you've made good progress so far. Unless you're ready to replace the motor, controller, and OBC all at once and hope for the best, you'll need a digital voltmeter (DVM) to run some more targeted tests.

First, set your DVM to measure voltage like earlier. Place the black probe on the main pack negative and the red probe on controller post #1 (refer to the wiring diagram in post #7). You should be seeing pack voltage at this point. Next, move the red probe to controller post #3, then press the accelerator until you hear a click. You should see the voltage move from 0V to around 5V as the pedal is pressed.

If everything checks out, we'll want to verify the controller output. Place your DVM probes on controller M- and B-, then press the accelerator pedal. As you press the pedal, the reading should vary between pack voltage and 0V. Let’s see what you find with these steps before moving on.

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Sounds like you've made good progress so far. Unless you're ready to replace the motor, controller, and OBC all at once and hope for the best, you'll need a digital voltmeter (DVM) to run some more targeted tests.

First, set your DVM to measure voltage like earlier. Place the black probe on the main pack negative and the red probe on controller post #1 (refer to the wiring diagram in post #7). You should be seeing pack voltage at this point. Next, move the red probe to controller post #3, then press the accelerator until you hear a click. You should see the voltage move from 0V to around 5V as the pedal is pressed.

If everything checks out, we'll want to verify the controller output. Place your DVM probes on controller M- and B-, then press the accelerator pedal. As you press the pedal, the reading should vary between pack voltage and 0V. Let’s see what you find with these steps before moving on.

Where's the controller m- and b- ??? I'm not much of an electrician so bear with me

[golfcartg]

Where's the controller m- and b- ??? I'm not much of an electrician so bear with me

In the picture I’ve attached, you’ll notice that controller posts 1, 2, 3, M-, B-, and B+ are circled in red. This image was taken from the wiring diagram I shared in the earlier post. If you have any friends with technical experience, feel free to invite them here to join the conversation. Having an extra set of hands can sometimes make troubleshooting easier, especially with the electrical system.

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Sounds like you've made good progress so far. Unless you're ready to replace the motor, controller, and OBC all at once and hope for the best, you'll need a digital voltmeter (DVM) to run some more targeted tests.

First, set your DVM to measure voltage like earlier. Place the black probe on the main pack negative and the red probe on controller post #1 (refer to the wiring diagram in post #7). You should be seeing pack voltage at this point. Next, move the red probe to controller post #3, then press the accelerator until you hear a click. You should see the voltage move from 0V to around 5V as the pedal is pressed.

If everything checks out, we'll want to verify the controller output. Place your DVM probes on controller M- and B-, then press the accelerator pedal. As you press the pedal, the reading should vary between pack voltage and 0V. Let’s see what you find with these steps before moving on.

I put red probe on B- and black probe M- and after pushing on accelerator it dropped to 00.3

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In the picture I’ve attached, you’ll notice that controller posts 1, 2, 3, M-, B-, and B+ are circled in red. This image was taken from the wiring diagram I shared in the earlier post. If you have any friends with technical experience, feel free to invite them here to join the conversation. Having an extra set of hands can sometimes make troubleshooting easier, especially with the electrical system.

I put red probe on B- and black probe M- and after pushing on accelerator it dropped to 00.3

[wpbrink]

Sounds like you've made good progress so far. Unless you're ready to replace the motor, controller, and OBC all at once and hope for the best, you'll need a digital voltmeter (DVM) to run some more targeted tests.

First, set your DVM to measure voltage like earlier. Place the black probe on the main pack negative and the red probe on controller post #1 (refer to the wiring diagram in post #7). You should be seeing pack voltage at this point. Next, move the red probe to controller post #3, then press the accelerator until you hear a click. You should see the voltage move from 0V to around 5V as the pedal is pressed.

If everything checks out, we'll want to verify the controller output. Place your DVM probes on controller M- and B-, then press the accelerator pedal. As you press the pedal, the reading should vary between pack voltage and 0V. Let’s see what you find with these steps before moving on.

Place the black probe on the main pack negative and the red probe on controller post #1.... my result was 37.2

Next, move the red probe to controller post #3, then press the accelerator until you hear a click. You should see the voltage move from 0V to around 5V as the pedal is pressed..... my result was 34.2

[golfcartg]

I put red probe on B- and black probe M- and after pushing on accelerator it dropped to 00.3

It looks like you're on the right track, but you’ll want to reverse your probes for this test. The red probe should go on M- and the black probe on B-. When you do this, you'll get an accurate reading of the voltage across the motor circuit. As you press the accelerator pedal at different levels, the voltage should change accordingly, so please let me know the full range of readings you’re seeing.

Place the black probe on the main pack negative and the red probe on controller post #1.... my result was 37.2

Your pack voltage is currently below 50% state of charge (SOC), which means you need to raise the batteries to at least 48V for the cart to operate properly. This could be your problem. You might have to label and disconnect each battery to charge them individually. Each battery should ideally read at least 8V. Using your DVM same as before, start by measuring the total voltage across the main positive and negative terminals of the pack, it should be above 48V. After that, check the voltage across each individual battery, they should all register above 8V. See attached chart.

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It looks like you're on the right track, but you’ll want to reverse your probes for this test. The red probe should go on M- and the black probe on B-. When you do this, you'll get an accurate reading of the voltage across the motor circuit. As you press the accelerator pedal at different levels, the voltage should change accordingly, so please let me know the full range of readings you’re seeing.


Your pack voltage is currently below 50% state of charge (SOC), which means you need to raise the batteries to at least 48V for the cart to operate properly. This could be your problem. You might have to label and disconnect each battery to charge them individually. Each battery should ideally read at least 8V. Using your DVM same as before, start by measuring the total voltage across the main positive and negative terminals of the pack, it should be above 48V. After that, check the voltage across each individual battery, they should all register above 8V. See attached chart.

I went with 4 12v deep cycle batteries for a change. On each of the batteries I'm getting a 12v reading. The charger also indicates I have a full charge as it shuts off.

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I went with 4 12v deep cycle batteries for a change. On each of the batteries I'm getting a 12v reading. The charger also indicates I have a full charge as it shuts off.

I am showing a digital read out of 50 when I key the ignition

[golfcartg]

I am showing a digital read out of 50 when I key the ignition

Key on, forward/reverse switch in forward, and accelerator pedal depressed, place the black probe on the battery pack negative terminal and the red probe on the solenoid small post positive terminal (the White/Black wire), what’s the voltage?

Move red probe to controller post 1, what is the voltage?

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Key on, forward/reverse switch in forward, and accelerator pedal depressed, place the black probe on the battery pack negative terminal and the red probe on the solenoid small post positive terminal (the White/Black wire), what’s the voltage?

Move red probe to controller post 1, what is the voltage?

So since I last posted here is where I'm at now. Motor was tested and the wheel turned, replaced controller with new one, replaced forward/reverse switch with new one, replaced mcor with new one, replaced solenoid with new one, replaced all batteries with new ones (current voltage is 50)....I might ad that right before the one battery blowed up under the seat I keyed on the cart and the volts were way up around 57 and then boom, one of the batteries exploded.

The only thing I haven't replaced is the ignition switch. Is this the possible culprit or where do I go now? Are there more electrical items to replace? I'm totally lost

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Key on, forward/reverse switch in forward, and accelerator pedal depressed, place the black probe on the battery pack negative terminal and the red probe on the solenoid small post positive terminal (the White/Black wire), what’s the voltage?

Move red probe to controller post 1, what is the voltage?

Are you talking about the last negative post or the first negative post?

[golfcartg]

Are you talking about the last negative post or the first negative post?

What are your results for those two tests described earlier while the black probe is on the main pack negative? (See pic)

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What are your results for those two tests described earlier while the black probe is on the main pack negative? (See pic)

What wire on the solenoid since I don't have a black and white?

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What are your results for those two tests described earlier while the black probe is on the main pack negative? (See pic)

49.6 going from black probe on negative to red probe on red wire as seen in picture

49 .6 going from black probe negative to #1 on the controller

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What are your results for those two tests described earlier while the black probe is on the main pack negative? (See pic)

49.6 going from black probe on negative to red probe on red wire as seen in picture

49 .6 going from black probe negative to #1 on the controller

[golfcartg]

49.6 going from black probe on negative to red probe on red wire as seen in picture

49 .6 going from black probe negative to #1 on the controller

Thanks for the pic, does the solenoid currently click with the key on, pedal down, and in gear?

If not, disconnect the yellow wire on the small solenoid post and run a jumper wire from your main pack negative to that solenoid small post you just removed. Press pedal again like normal, does the solenoid click?

If not, double check you are still getting pack voltage at solenoid small post (red) with the black probe on main pack negative. If so, replace solenoid with a known good one.

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Thanks for the pic, does the solenoid currently click with the key on, pedal down, and in gear?

If not, disconnect the yellow wire on the small solenoid post and run a jumper wire from your main pack negative to that solenoid small post you just removed. Press pedal again like normal, does the solenoid click?

If not, double check you are still getting pack voltage at solenoid small post (red) with the black probe on main pack negative. If so, replace solenoid with a known good one.

Solenoid clicks when pedal depressed?

Do you think it could be the obc?

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Solenoid clicks when pedal depressed?

Do you think it could be the obc?

Also do you think there are any issues with the ignition area or the accelerator pedal?

[golfcartg]

Solenoid clicks when pedal depressed?

Do you think it could be the obc?

The solenoid clicks! Great! Does the solenoid click normally, or only after you ran the jumper wire?

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The solenoid clicks! Great! Does the solenoid click normally, or only after you ran the jumper wire?

It clicks when I power up and press the accelerator in reverse or forward. With the key off nothing

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It clicks when I power up and press the accelerator in reverse or forward. With the key off nothing

I feel like I've tried everything... frustrated.... dumb question but would the ignition switch have anything to do with this?

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The solenoid clicks! Great! Does the solenoid click normally, or only after you ran the jumper wire?

I wanted to talk about the ignition switch. Before everything went bad there were many times when I'd have to turn the key back and forth to get the digital voltage to show. Sometimes I'd turn the key on and nothing then it would work. Does this information help any?

[golfcartg]

It clicks when I power up and press the accelerator in reverse or forward. With the key off nothing

This is excellent news. Now first off, no, your ignition switch isn’t the problem as long as you're still hearing the solenoid "click" as usual. That click means the switch is working fine, so we can cross that off the list. If the digital voltage gauge is acting up, it’s probably just on its way out, but that has nothing to do with the core issue we’re trying to solve right now.

I get it, you’re frustrated. When these things drag out, it can feel like you’ve tried everything. But here’s the deal, I’m not there, so I need you to help me out by running a few more key tests so we can really pinpoint what’s happening. So far, we’ve already confirmed some big wins, your key switch, batteries, accelerator pedal switch, onboard computer (OBC), FNR microswitch, and solenoid activation circuit (and its wiring) are all in good shape. That’s a huge chunk of the system working correctly, so we’re closer than you might think.

Here’s what I need you to do next, grab your voltmeter. Key on in gear as normal, place the red probe on the controller's M- terminal and the black probe on the B- terminal. Press the accelerator just until you hear the solenoid click, and take note of the voltage reading. Then, without disconnecting anything, slowly press the pedal all the way to the floor, and watch how the voltage changes. Write those numbers down. This will help us understand how the controller is communicating with the motor and whether power delivery is happening the way it should.

Shoot those numbers back to me once you've got them and we’ll figure out the next step.

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This is excellent news. Now first off, no, your ignition switch isn’t the problem as long as you're still hearing the solenoid "click" as usual. That click means the switch is working fine, so we can cross that off the list. If the digital voltage gauge is acting up, it’s probably just on its way out, but that has nothing to do with the core issue we’re trying to solve right now.

I get it, you’re frustrated. When these things drag out, it can feel like you’ve tried everything. But here’s the deal, I’m not there, so I need you to help me out by running a few more key tests so we can really pinpoint what’s happening. So far, we’ve already confirmed some big wins, your key switch, batteries, accelerator pedal switch, onboard computer (OBC), FNR microswitch, and solenoid activation circuit (and its wiring) are all in good shape. That’s a huge chunk of the system working correctly, so we’re closer than you might think.

Here’s what I need you to do next, grab your voltmeter. Key on in gear as normal, place the red probe on the controller's M- terminal and the black probe on the B- terminal. Press the accelerator just until you hear the solenoid click, and take note of the voltage reading. Then, without disconnecting anything, slowly press the pedal all the way to the floor, and watch how the voltage changes. Write those numbers down. This will help us understand how the controller is communicating with the motor and whether power delivery is happening the way it should.

Shoot those numbers back to me once you've got them and we’ll figure out the next step.

Just by itself = 49.2
after solenoid engaged = 52
Pushing accelerator to ground = 52

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Just by itself = 49.2
after solenoid engaged = 52
Pushing accelerator to ground = 52

Correction: both 52's are 50

[golfcartg]

Place the black probe on the pack negative terminal and leave it there. Then, with the red probe, test the voltage at controller terminal #3. Key on in gear as you slowly press the pedal, you should see the voltage move from 0V up to 5V. Pay close attention to how smoothly the voltage changes as you press down, this will tell if the throttle signal is being sent properly. Now, move red probe to controller terminal #2, you should see a steady 5v there.

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In the first test here's what happened. Black probe on negative and red probe on #3... it moved the cart so fast I couldn't see the reading

2nd test gave me a reading to approximately 3 something....

Wasn't expecting the cart to move....lol

[golfcartg]

I wasn’t expecting it to move either. No worries, it happens! For safety, let’s raise the rear wheels off the ground before redoing those tests. That way, the cart can’t take off while you’re getting the readings.