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I bought a great used 14 Club Car, good batteries and performed good , long story shortened, the cart stopped , I removed the controller panel and found the cable terminals had been hot and we're melted but still attached, I scouted a reman controller and ordered it. The checklist of items to test was motor windings and that led to replace motor, I have since replaced the obc , solenoid and mcor . Cart has stopped working again , solenoid just clicks. Before I start replacing my new parts again I wanted to reach out to the community for help , HELP PLEASE.
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Mods like a lift kit with larger wheels and tires can significantly increase the energy demand on the motor and controller. When you pair that with driving habits like consistently moving at low speeds or on hilly terrain, it can strain the system even more.
This strain, in combination with something like a dragging brake pad, is a super recipe for overheating issues, which might explain why you found melted cable terminals and are now facing recurring problems despite replacing major components. The increased load in this situation forces the motor and controller to work harder, generating excess heat that can degrade wiring, connectors, and even the components themselves instantly or over time.
It’s worth considering a dragging brake pad or other mechanical resistance is further exacerbating these heat issues making it harder for your cart to function properly. If any of this sounds familiar it might be worth reevaluating your cart’s setup, checking that your brakes aren’t dragging and possibly upgrading components to handle the increased demand to prevent future issues.
Since the solenoid is only clicking now, this is your chance to take on the challenge of troubleshooting with a DVM (digital voltmeter) and really get to the root of the problem. By using a DVM, you can identify the faulty component or issue instead of just swapping out parts and hoping for the best. This not only saves you money and frustration but also helps you avoid using cheap knockoff parts that you might find on Amazon which often don’t last long and can cause more issues down the road. -
So no huge lift , I did put wheels and tires but they are only 20" . I'm totally guilty of attempting to save a buck but the purpose of replacing all of it was to be one and done . I have muli-meter and have knowledge of how to use it , my question is what , where and when to test. If you have any insight on that it would be awesomeComment
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Good moring,
1. Place chocks at the front wheels and lift the rear of the vehicle with a chain hoist or floor jack. Position jack stands under the frame crossmember between the spring mount and side stringer, just forward of each rear wheel.
2. Turn the key switch to the ON position and place the Forward/Reverse switch in the FORWARD position.
3. Set a multimeter to 200 volts. Place the black (–) probe on the battery no.8 main pack negative post and place the red (+) probe on the solenoid large post with the 6-gauge yellow wire.
4. With the pedal up, the reading should be 9.5 to 10.5 volts. If the voltage is higher, let the cart sit for 5-10 minutes to allow the capacitors to discharge to 9.5 to 10.5 volts.
5. Press the accelerator pedal. You should hear the solenoid click or activate, the voltage should read 48-50 volts with the pedal pressed. If the voltage does not increase or goes to 0 volts with the pedal pressed, the solenoid could be faulty. More testing is needed.Comment
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