1996 Club Car 48V - Intermittently not moving when pedal is pressed

[Benlee1199]

Hello, I have a 48V Club Car that is sometimes not moving when the pedal is pressed. It has batteries that are a little over a year old, which are at a full charge. When the pedal is pressed, I can hear the contactor (solenoid) clicking each time, and sometimes it will move like normal. Other times it will not move at all, and sometimes it will not move until the pedal is pressed more than halfway and then suddenly jerk very hard as the pedal seems to register after it is pressed more than half way. All these scenarios could happen intermittently at any time. There just one instance where the cart was moving forward at full throttle as if the pedal was still being fully pressed - even when there was no foot on the pedal at all.

I am suspecting the controller, since the contactor is clicking when the pedal is pressed, but I don't know how to test the controller to know whether that is the issue, and since they are expensive I don't want to just throw the part at it. I suppose it could also be that the pedal potentiometer is going bad and malfunctioning intermittently, but I don't know how to test that either.

I would love your suggestions for what the probable culprit could be, and how to test the components to verify the issue. Thanks in advance!!

[golfcartg]

It seems like you've done some digging on the issue and from what you've described, it's possible that the pedal potentiometer could be causing the problem. Since you're hearing clicking when you press the pedal, that's a good sign that the solenoid is engaging. However, the erratic behavior you're experiencing, like the cart not moving at all or jerking unexpectedly, suggests there might be a problem with the pedal potentiometer.

Around 1996 and 1997 club car DS 48v had a pot box near the pedal or under the seat. If yours is near the pedal, this pedal potentiometer is responsible for translating the position of the pedal into electronic signals that control the speed of the cart. If it's malfunctioning intermittently, it could cause the symptoms you're experiencing. If you have this setup, try checking the wiring connections to make sure they're secure and free of corrosion. You can also try popping it open and cleaning and inspecting the inside to see if that improves its performance. However, those pot boxes were eventually discontinued due to their design flaws, and there may not be a direct replacement available on the market. If this is the case, consider converting it to MCOR for the smoothest pedal you could ever imagine.

Where to start IMO?

1. Rule out the batteries by load testing each one and posting the results
2. Rule out the solenoid by testing it or jumping it
3. Rule out the pot box as described above
4. Test the controller

[Benlee1199]

Thanks so much for this info. A couple more questions in response to that info...
1. how do I jump the solenoid?
2. how do I test the controller?

[golfcartg]

Thanks so much for this info. A couple more questions in response to that info...
1. how do I jump the solenoid?
2. how do I test the controller?

1. To test the solenoid on a 1996 club car 48v, start by jacking up the rear wheels off the ground and using a voltmeter set to measure DC voltage. (This setting is usually indicated by a "V" with a straight line above it, followed by a dashed line and a solid line) Once your meter is set to the correct setting, you'll use the probes to measure the voltage across the two small terminals on the solenoid. Place the black probe (the negative lead) on the negative terminal of the battery pack, and the red probe on one of the small terminals of the solenoid. With the key on and the pedal depressed, take note of the reading displayed on the voltmeter. Then, move the red probe to the other small terminal of the solenoid and take another reading. Overall if voltage is detected and the wheels are not spinning, it suggests that the solenoid may be faulty.
2. To test the controller on a series cart, you'll first jack the cart up on stands and set your meter to measure DC voltage, just like before. Then, you'll place the red probe on the "M-" terminal of the controller and the black probe on the "B-" terminal. When you do this, you should see the pack voltage (the total voltage of the battery pack) displayed on the meter as soon as the solenoid clicks. This indicates that the controller is receiving power properly. As you continue to depress the pedal fully, the voltage reading should drop down to 0V. This confirms that the controller is responding correctly to the pedal input. If the voltage doesn't drop to 0V or if there are any other irregularities in the voltage readings, it could indicate a problem with the controller.

[Benlee1199]

Thanks again for your input on this. I tested the solenoid and it appeared to be the issue, so I replaced it and have not had any issues since :-)

[golfcartg]

You're welcome! It's always rewarding to know that I could help assist in resolving an issue. Thank you for taking the time to provide an update, it's greatly appreciated.

[Benlee1199]

No problem! I learn so much from forums myself, including reading past discussions that have already resolved and where the original poster provided an update to confirm what solved the problem for them. I have completed many successful repairs by reading those types of past discussions, so I try to make sure I give an update once I have the problem fixed.