48V Club Car won't charge

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  • 48V Club Car won't charge

    I tried to upload the schematic from my computer...someone will have to tell me how to do that.

    The charger is working; I'm reading 60V DC (charger output) across the batteries but there's no current flow. And quite honestly, I don't know if the current has to flow through the controller or onboard computer.

    I'm just looking for ideas...thanks.
    Updated by Seventyfive; December 22, 2023, 08:49 PM.

  • #2
    Posted earlier by Seventyfive
    I tried to upload the schematic from my computer...someone will have to tell me how to do that.

    The charger is working; I'm reading 60V DC (charger output) across the batteries but there's no current flow. And quite honestly, I don't know if the current has to flow through the controller or onboard computer.

    I'm just looking for ideas...thanks.
    uploading stuff can be a bit of a doozy sometimes...... Can't help much with that link fumble but when it comes to that charger and voltage readings, sounds like you're deep in troubleshootin territory! Current flow can be a headscratcher, especially if it's not moving through that controller or onboard computer. Maybe someone here'll have a lightbulb moment and chime in with some ideas. Good luck figurin it out!!

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    • #3
      Well, I forgot to mention that after initially deciding the charging unit wasn't the problem, I looked under the seat and found the "red" wire coming from the charger cable plug receptacle corroded at it's connection to battery post, barely making a connection. Figured that was the problem, but it wasn't.

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      • #4
        It started working... I went back today to double check voltage measurements and wiggled a few wires in the process. Whether the wire wiggling corrected an open circuit, I don't know. But today, the voltage reading was 57 rather than previous readings of 60+ which gave me some pause. At that point I wasn't looking at the amp gauge on the charger but put my clamp amp tool around a cable and it showed 11 amps, which could explain the drop in voltage. And the cable carrying the current is the one that comes out of the OBC. Still, the 11 amps is less than the usual 15, something to ponder.

        I also discovered today, the OBC was "bypassed" by a previous owner...I replaced the OBC previously to fix what I guessed was broke but it was a faulty firing of the parts cannon. So, now it's just wait and see if it quits again...

        https://www.impactbattery.com/blog/p...board-computer
        Updated by Seventyfive; December 23, 2023, 05:52 PM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Posted earlier by Seventyfive
          It started working... I went back today to double check voltage measurements and wiggled a few wires in the process. Whether the wire wiggling corrected an open circuit, I don't know. But today, the voltage reading was 57 rather than previous readings of 60+ which gave me some pause. At that point I wasn't looking at the amp gauge on the charger but put my clamp amp tool around a cable and it showed 11 amps, which could explain the drop in voltage. And the cable carrying the current is the one that comes out of the OBC. Still, the 11 amps is less than the usual 15, something to ponder.

          I also discovered today, the OBC was "bypassed" by a previous owner...I replaced the OBC previously to fix what I guessed was broke but it was a faulty firing of the parts cannon. So, now it's just wait and see if it quits again...

          https://www.impactbattery.com/blog/p...board-computer
          Ah, the intricate dance of voltage readings and wire wiggling! Reminds me of a similar puzzle I once faced with an old cart. Patience paid off in the end, though, uncovering a web of bypassed components left by a previous owner. Sometimes these wiring mysteries take time to reveal their secrets. Wishing your cart a speedy resolution.

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