95 Club Car Electric

[jflecker]

When I turn the key on, place it in forward or reverse and hit the pedal nothing happens. The batteries are six months old, are very clean and fully charged. I can't find any loose wires. I've never had a problem until one day this happened. Any advice? thanks jeff

[Larry1950]

Could be anything from a bad micro switch, solenoid to controller. Do you hear a click when depressing the pedal? If not the solenoid is not being activated. It could be the key switch, micro switch or the solenoid. Need to use a meter and follow the voltage. Didn't find a wiring diagram here maybe someone has one for your year.

[gaminde]

I might have a schematic on my site in the signature

[wthompson]

service manual with wiring diagrams http://www.golfcartsforum.com/golf-c...ce-manual.html

[rdubois]

pull the plastic cover of the, i believe potentiometer, the one that says don't run without it in place, and see if the insulation of the copper wire you see has worn thru and is shorting out.

that may not be what it's called. it's attached to the accelerator rod....but pop that cover off and check.

[jflecker]

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the responses and the schematics. I'm struggling somewhat with learning how to use the tester. I replaced the solenoid but that didn't help. I still do not hear the audible click from the solenoid.

I performed the testing recommended for the F&R switch and it indicates it is ok, but I am not sure the "limit switches" on the F&R switch are good or not.

Does anyone know how to test the key switch itself to determine if it is good?
Thanks rdubois, I will check out the potentiometer in the morning.
jeff

[gaminde]

is one of the wires going to the small terminals on the solenoid yellow, if so ground that to the battery pack negative side and try the cart.

does your cart charge ok.

[jflecker]

Hi Gaminde, Yessss! I ran a wire from the small terminal yellow wire on the solenoid to the negative battery terminal and it works. What does that mean? What do I do next? thanks jeff

is one of the wires going to the small terminals on the solenoid yellow, if so ground that to the battery pack negative side and try the cart.

does your cart charge ok.

Yes the cart charges fine.

[gaminde]

what does that mean it means I had a lucky guess. the lockout section of the OBC which keeps you from driving off with the charger plugged in has malfunctioned so put a permanent wire and maybe with a switch on it or not and have fun.

[jflecker]

Thanks again Gaminde, so could the fix you suggested have any other potential consequences? Does this fix interfere with the job the OBC is supposed to do in any way? What is the purpose of placing a switch in the fix wire?
thanks jeff

[gaminde]

if you turn the switch off each time you charge no one can get in and drive with the charger plugged in. the OBC is bad the lockout circuit does not work your choice the charging function of the OBC is apparently working OK.

[jflecker]

Ok, I get it. Well, I guess I'll go the with the wire and switch you suggest temporarily and then probably replace the OBC eventually. Thanks again, I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out.
jeff

[gaminde]

just remember their $250 plus

[jflecker]

Hi Gamide, Back in September my cart went dead and you gave me a suggestion to fix my cart by running a wire from the yellow solenoid to the negative battery terminal AND IT WORKED, until this weekend when the cart went dead again. I replaced the OBC this time but it still won't run. Any other suggestions you might have? Thanks jeff

[gaminde]

Do you here the switch down by the go pedal is the solenoid clicking
Maybe post the year and if it has a controller what happened last time it ran.

[jflecker]

Hi Gaminde, thanks for responding. To answer your questions.... 1) The linkage and switch by the gas pedal seem to be working mechanically. 2) No, I do not hear the solenoid clicking, but then again I don't think I heard it click when the cart was running good. I had replaced the solenoid in September '13. Could the new one be bad? 3) Yes it has a controller. the serial # is A9535-455761. 4) The last time it was running it just shut down while I was cruising thru the yard. thanks jeff

[gaminde]

unfortunately I have never worked on the older units, I have been focusing on the IQ units. I can help if you have a specific trouble shooting problem, but you need to check the solenoid for activation, meter on small terminals press pedal should have 48V

[jflecker]

I bought and installed a new solenoid. I put the meter on the small terminals and pressed the pedal but no reading on the VOM. Also I still don't hear the solenoid click on. thanks jeff

[wthompson]

Check all wiring and switches in the control circuit. Items in red need to be checked for continuity, will be open or OL on meter until you switch them then you should get close to 0 ohms resistence. hope this helps...

Taken from the service manual.
THE CONTROL CIRCUIT

The control circuit consists of the key switch, F&R (Forward and reverse anti-arcing limit switch, accelerator limit switch, solenoid, and connecting wires. The key switch is an ON-OFF type, the function of which is to disable, or open, the control circuit when the
vehicle is not in use. With the key switch in the OFF position, the vehicle will not run.

The function of the F&R anti-arcing limit switch is to prevent arcing on the F&R contacts. When the vehicle is in neutral, the limit switch is open. The F&R anti-arcing limit switch closes only after full contact has been made on the F&R switch. As the F&R switch is being disengaged, the F&R anti-arcing limit switch opens the power circuit by opening the solenoid before the F&R contacts are separated. By using the F&R anti-arcing
limit switch to control power through the F&R switch, arcing is prevented on the F&R contacts.
When the accelerator is depressed (which closes the potentiometer limit switch), and the F&R switch is in forward or reverse (which closes the anti-arcing limit switch), and the key is in the ON position, the control circuit is complete. The solenoid coil (enclosed in solenoid) will then be activated, closing the solenoid power contacts and activating the controller.
The reverse buzzer is a warning device that is activated when the F&R switch is placed in reverse. The reverse buzzer will sound continuously until the vehicle is shifted to neutral or forward

[jflecker]

Hey Gaminde, one more question. What if they accidently sold me a 36 volt solenoid instead of the 48 volt solenoid? Could that be the problem?

[gaminde]

Hey Gaminde, one more question. What if they accidently sold me a 36 volt solenoid instead of the 48 volt solenoid? Could that be the problem?

Well you have no voltage on the small terminals so it did not matter, its an activation problem
OBC, controller, mcor, key sw. and all associated curcits.
Also the F/R switch.as noted above.