1993 Club Car DS 36V click no go

[rettenator]

My 93 Club Car ran fine since I've had it until a few days ago when it would start not going on every gas pedal press. The problem slowly got worse over the course of a couple of days until it won't move now.

So here's what I've done/tested so far to diagnose the problem:
1. Batteries charged, load tested good
2. Clean battery cables
3. Key switch good
4. F&R microswitches operational

5. V-Glide switch cleaned, ohm tested each step (anyone have a chart that shows what resistance each step should be?)

6. V-Glide microswitch functional

7. Solenoid tested OK with ohm resistance method I found here:

http://golfcardr.hubpages.com/hub/How-to-check-your-Golf-Cart-for-a-Bad-Solenoid

and functional method OK found here:

http://www.buggiesunlimited.com/golfcart/guru_janfeb09.asp

under [Secondary Circuit (power) 1)]
Solenoid comes up fine in both tests.

8. Reset OBC using Resetting the OBC
My reverse buzzer went off the whole time, ~6 minutes
[OBC Label says: Golftech Industries - Curtis 1204 - 400 AMP]

9. Bypassed OBC using these instructions: (To bypass the OBC take a 14 ga wire from the yellow wire on the solenoid (small post) to the total battery bank negative. This bypasses the OBC and should allow the cart to run, if it runs the OBC is bad.)
Still would not run.

I'm starting to lean toward motor brushes, but I don't know enough about these carts yet to make that determination. Thinking about taking the motor cover off tomorrow to look at them.

Any other tests or recommendations?

[Larry1950]

When you bypassed the solenoid did the solenoid click and did you you push the go pedal to start the motor. If the solenoid clicks you still need to press the go pedal to activate the speed control. Also there may be a "fuse" in the yellow lead of the OBC is really a logic diode. It is about a foot from the OBC inside a heat shrink in the wire loom. If so cut away the heat shrink and make a quick bypass. If this works replace the "fuse" with a 1n4002 diode (Radio shack very cheap) banded end toward the OBC.

[rettenator]

Some new things I learned today: this cart doesn't have an OBC. I was confusing that with the controller. So those tests are out.

I have since tested the motor itself by unhooking the battery pack and motor wires. Checking for continuity between A1 to A2 and S1 to S2. Making sure I had it in both places. I also checked that I should not have continuity from any of the 4 posts to the base of the motor or from any A to S post.

Motor passed all tests, so I have ruled it out as the problem.

So now I'm onto examining the controller.

I wonder if there is a way to test the controller. I have taken it off and get various ohm readings on the different contacts.

Also wonder if I do replace the controller, would an Alltrax AXE4844 or Alltrax AXE4845 be OK considering it had a Curtis 1204 400 AMP controller? Or should I stick with a Curtis?

[olledude]

According to your original post section 8, the reverse buzzer went off for 6 min.
Although you don't have an OBC this part of your testing is quite valid as you are just trying to discharge the capasitors in the controlled
While you were trying to discharge the controller. Did you have the key switch on and accel. Pedal pressed to the floor?
If so then your controller is not getting a signal from either the Key switch, V-Glide micro switch or F&R micro switch. It's probably a bad wiring connection, Those crimp on connectors will get corrosion in them over time and your cart being 20 years old that may be where the problem is
Give a tug on all wires with crimp on terminal connectors in these three circuits and I'm guessing one will come apart