Redesign Powerdrive Plus Gen2?

[MichEE]

How feasible is it to change over a Club Car DS from the Powerdrive Plus (Gen 2 I think it is called) to the Power Drive (Gen 1) system?

I am starting with what’s left of a ’97 DS chassis after someone set the rear body on fire by getting the batteries too hot. It was “payment” for fixing the last one!!

So I have a motor and almost all of the wiring; no batteries or battery wiring though. If I do this I can remove the computer and then also remove the 2nd contactor for the regen. + associated wiring.

This will be driven around the neighborhood and yard but I’ll put some larger tires on it and a small lift. So I’d like to have some flexibility in what I am using.

I like the electrical challenge so I am not concerned if I have to rewire or redesign almost everything electrical. I don’t have torches and a welder so I’m not into much of the mechanical but can get throught if necessary.

Do you think it is worth it cost wise or should I buy an aftermarket controller? Scrap it and start over? Are there similar parts even? Motors the same? Throttle looks the same from what I know so far.

[MichEE]

From an electrical perspective - from what I know which is a little - it LOOKS like it will work.

[MichEE]

so... after further reading it looks as though the Gen 2 uses a SHUNT wound motor and the Gen 1 systen uses a SERIES wound motor.

SO... still open for suggestions. Just looks like I'll need a SHUNT wound motor controller.

[Michael Eddie]

Bump for the electric guys

[gaminde]

The motor you want to use does it have the speed sensor on the back, small red green and black wires. If so you would be better off using IQ controller. Stock IQ controllers are 150 dollars used and rebuilt.

[MichEE]

yep, I got the speed sensor - it is required when using the Gen 2 motor controller as it regens to keep it from rolling away.

The IQ controller: so that is just basically a 48V, 200A Curtis MODEL # 1510??

[gaminde]

yep, I got the speed sensor - it is required when using the Gen 2 motor controller as it regens to keep it from rolling away.

The IQ controller: so that is just basically a 48V, 200A Curtis MODEL # 1510??

250amp. On generation 1 and 2 speed sensors could be disconnected On an iq system it defaults to 8 miles per hour when disconnected. With an iq system you can achieve 20 miles per hour Speed code four or with aftermarket device.

[MichEE]

250amp. On generation 1 and 2 speed sensors could be disconnected On an iq system it defaults to 8 miles per hour when disconnected. With an iq system you can achieve 20 miles per hour Speed code four or with aftermarket device.

Great! Sounds like my plan. How do I get smart on the IQ and select "speed code 4?" Can I do that with my Curtis programming software?

[gaminde]

electrical_diagram_1510_simple.pdfSpeed code 4 you either pay club car to do it or use a speedy link or my 2speed unit.
There is a manual on this site for 2006 IQ carts, with great info on pinout for the controller. I uploaded a simple schematic on what you will need to do. I have a 1510 running on my bench.

Software will not do much for you and cannot do speed code 4 without a club car code.

Keep Us informed on your progress

[MichEE]

[ATTACH]1182[/ATTACH]Speed code 4 you either pay club car to do it or use a speedy link or my 2speed unit.
There is a manual on this site for 2006 IQ carts, with great info on pinout for the controller. I uploaded a simple schematic on what you will need to do. I have a 1510 running on my bench.

Software will not do much for you and cannot do speed code 4 without a club car code.

Keep Us informed on your progress

So are you saying with my Curtis programmer I can only change firmware and speed code 4 is not in Club Car firmware options? That would suck.

[gaminde]

You cannot change firmware at all, you can only change a few parameters that have been programmed into the firmware that is programmed into the controller.

[gaminde]

From an electrical perspective - from what I know which is a little - it LOOKS like it will work.

What you have pictured is a Regen1 and a series cart not the Regen2
Regen's are Sepex motors which is a type of series motor

[MichEE]

What you have pictured is a Regen1 and a series cart not the Regen2
Regen's are Sepex motors which is a type of series motor

really? I thought the Regen 1 was Powerdrive and Powerdrive plus was Regen 2? No? Can you help me straighten this out? Ultimately I'd like to strip down to a simple controller with a pot throttle. I have experience with the Curtis controllers and access to all the hardware to program one for what I need - should have started with that thought process from the begining I see.

[gaminde]

In your second drawing you have a manual forward and reverse switch to handle high current in drawing 1 you have a toggle sw.There is no speed sensor or regen solenoids on drawing 2.

Below is what I have for Regen 2

[gaminde]

In any case I would not go backwards for more money, IQ is cheaper, more reliable, you have software for it, parts are still available, and ITS FASTER.

[MichEE]

In any case I would not go backwards for more money, IQ is cheaper, more reliable, you have software for it, parts are still available, and ITS FASTER.

Perfect! I get it now, thanks so much for the info (and being patient with me!). I was confusing "regen" term for "powerdrive" and regen is obviously short for regeneration!!

I have the Powerdrive Plus.

So, in summary (can you help with the??'s):

Powerdrive = no regen & no computer & ?? controller
Powerdrive plus = regen, with computer & crappy GE controller
??? = regen & with computer & (IQ) Curtis 1510 controller

[gaminde]

This is how I see it.

PowerDrive This is a Series Cart 48volts with controller and computer.

PowerDrive + This is a Regen Cart 48volts with controller and computer.
This is Regen 1

Regen 2 This is a Regen Cart 48volts with controller and computer.
This is Regen 2 different controller and pin out of connections.

The PowerDrive Carts were the same years around 95 to 98 then the Regen 2 came out, and sometime in 2000 2001 I think IQ DS came out, then late 03 Precedent.

This is all from memory so don't hold me to the dates.
Kinda of like Columbus discovered America in 1492 BUT they found bones of two white males about 6' tall buried in Chaco Canyon NM. that date back to 860AD so go figure.

[MichEE]

ok, I think I understand that much - and the included history lesson!

So, what I have is a '97 seems to be nothing we have documented in the 3 wiring diagrams. I have the step resistor.

Will an IQ controller work for this?

[gaminde]

Looking at your pictures I am guessing you have a Regen2 because of the coils in the left picture, and the step pot. The schematic I posted should be correct. The controller does not care what gives it resistance, pot or stepper type unit as long as its 0 to 5K or 5K to 0. Now you have said the motor has a speed sensor attached correct.

After reviewing the schematics it looks like you have a mix of Regen1 and Regen2. Coils are mounted like regen1 but the step pot is like Regen2. but we need to get away from this and go one way or the other what parts do you have and lets focus on that and not all of the different types.

Now as far as Im concerned a Regen is a Regen 1,2 and IQ different Pin out of the controller different way of doing Regen different pot type but it all the same in the big picture.

[MichEE]

Looking at your pictures I am guessing you have a Regen2 because of the coils in the left picture, and the step pot.

Correct, a mix of a Regen2 system. It had the GE (Club Car) controller that has been called "T" shaped.

The schematic I posted should be correct. The controller does not care what gives it resistance, pot or stepper type unit as long as its 0 to 5K or 5K to 0. Now you have said the motor has a speed sensor attached correct.

Yes, I clearly have a speed sensor.

After reviewing the schematics it looks like you have a mix of Regen1 and Regen2. Coils are mounted like regen1 but the step pot is like Regen2. but we need to get away from this and go one way or the other what parts do you have and lets focus on that and not all of the different types.

Totally agree, just needed to make sure that what I choose to go with is the easiest route.

Now as far as Im concerned a Regen is a Regen 1,2 and IQ different Pin out of the controller different way of doing Regen different pot type but it all the same in the big picture.

Yes, this is all accurate. So, if I get a stock 1510 series, 250A Curtis motor controller can I program it from scratch and make this all work if I follow the wiring schematic you posted? Or is there no such thing as a "stock 1510series?

[gaminde]

Yes 1510 is what I would do, you can get rid of the regen coil and solenoid, you can use the step pot or use a pot box or rig a MCOR, start with step pot.

There is no programming from scratch there are a few parameters you can mess with but that will be after you get it running. Stick with stock settings until running.

This is not plug and play you will need to get the plug and pins to match the controller.

[MichEE]

Yes 1510 is what I would do, you can get rid of the regen coil and solenoid, you can use the step pot or use a pot box or rig a MCOR, start with step pot.

OK, I'll use the step pot, off to eBay I go. 1510-5201, right?? Any suggestions on a vendor?

There is no programming from scratch there are a few parameters you can mess with but that will be after you get it running. Stick with stock settings until running.

Stock is where its at for now...

This is not plug and play you will need to get the plug and pins to match the controller.

I think I might have the pins but not sure on the connector. Not a problem though, should be the easy part!! Thanks again for all the help!!

[gaminde]

I think there are 5210, 5201, 5250 some have A after the number I think there all about the same.

just get a good deal and something that is guaranteed !!

[gaminde]

did you really like the history lesson?? or were you pulling my leg

[MichEE]

I think there are 5210, 5201, 5250 some have A after the number I think there all about the same.

just get a good deal and something that is guaranteed !!

OK, I have a line on one for $125 and hope that works out.

did you really like the history lesson?? or were you pulling my leg

Both! I thought it was funny basically!! Wasn't really much of a lesson since I knew it already

So, looking at the Curtis 1266, tell me what I can' make that work? Looks a lot like the 1510 - same pin out.

I got a VERY crude mark up of what I'll be doing, just need to put it into CAD to make it readable! I think I can keep speed control too so never mind that part....

By the way... Looks like the connector and pins are 16-pin Molex Mini-Fit Jr. connector p/n 39-01-2165 using type 5556 terminals.

[gaminde]

Speed sensor you need with an IQ, And OBC if you're going to charge unless. you have aftermarket charger

[MichEE]

right, I'll use speed control.

I have an aftermarket charger.

Also, I'll be ordering a Curtis 1266 or a 1268 next week since it seems doable to use one of those. Any idea what the difference is between the 1510 and the others?

[gaminde]

I can't help with those I have no information on them

[MichEE]

we'll find out the difference (if any) and I'll post what they say here.

[gaminde]

I looked it up and it looks like the same unit with different firmware (more programming options) and still a 200~250 amp unit. Now if it costs more than 150.00 I would rather see you go to altrax and get a 400 ~600 amp unit and then you could really hall ass.

Option
use the parts you have now and get it running then upgrade later ?

Option2
there are lots of people who could use an older controller if its working so you could sell your old one.

[MichEE]

I looked it up and it looks like the same unit with different firmware (more programming options) and still a 200~250 amp unit. Now if it costs more than 150.00 I would rather see you go to altrax and get a 400 ~600 amp unit and then you could really hall ass.

Option
use the parts you have now and get it running then upgrade later ?

Option2
there are lots of people who could use an older controller if its working so you could sell your old one.

I like the "haul a**" option! Can't go any faster than battery voltage though, right? That would be a motor change option to go faster. I really like the Altrax stuff though. Its more down the line of what we are doing here and I may wind up with one later.

I don't have the Club Car controller by the way. That had to be donated to the last cart I worked on to get it going.

I'll stick with the 1266 or 1268 for now and see where that lands me. I have a ton of support components and prior knowledge with Curtis stuff that I could use.

[gaminde]

How is the conversion going any problems have you started yet.